Huber Maintainer.....Need Help

[Gods Country]

My maintainer died today.
Seems to be a fried solenoid (if that痴 even what it is)
Do I have any hope of getting the old girl running?

The wire on the right (from battery) is clearly fried.
The left side goes to the starter, and the center wire I suppose is a ground.

I have really no info on this machine, best guess is early sixties.

 

[wdchyd]

Auto parts store item.......

here's a good place to start...my local auto parts store uses this brand (can be any brand).....

Solenoids & Relays | Steel & Phenolic Body Solenoids | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

You'll need to pull it off and try to figure out which style and pay attention to how it's grounded and wired internally.....should be pretty straight foward...

 

[Gods Country]

Auto parts store item.......

here's a good place to start...my local auto parts store uses this brand (can be any brand).....

Solenoids & Relays | Steel & Phenolic Body Solenoids | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

You'll need to pull it off and try to figure out which style and pay attention to how it's grounded and wired internally.....should be pretty straight foward...

A trip to NAPA was on the agenda tomorrow, hoping it would be simple.

So basically any old solenoid will work provided it's layed out correct, can be mounted, and correct voltage?

Which raises a question. I can't believe this old girl isn't 6V, but when I inherited it she had a 12v battery. Not sure why.

 

[wdchyd]

Basically the larger studs are the same......just pay attention to the small stud that is used to engage the soleniod ......some use a positive connection at that stud to energize the soleniod and it would be grounded internally.....others work differently and have separate neg stud and positive stud for wiring (most common)......

just use a volt meter/continuity tester to evaluate which one you'll need.....

 

[wdchyd]

Here's another view....

Special Solenoid Applications | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

 

[Gods Country]

Well the starter is 12v, wonder if it was updated?
I'm having difficulty removing the old solenoid, so I'm letting it soak over night before i turn to more drastic measures.

The positive lead from the starter switch is on the same post as the positive battery cable, so it is a three post unit. Wondering if a four post would work?

 

[wdchyd]

A four post unit would work if you make a jumper wire and use it to ground one of the small posts....

 

[wdchyd]

the only difference is the three post unit has the ground built-in internally......

 

[Gods Country]

Well the third post I believe is a ground, so I would assume a four post would allow a direct place for the positive lead to the ignition switch instead of sharing with the battery post. Don't think it will matter either way.

see pic
View attachment 217363
BTW thanks for your help.:thumbsup:

EDIT: I keep calling it ground, I mean neutral.

 

[wdchyd]

The small stud you are calling ground is the wire that toggles the solenoid on and off......usually it is a positive signal to energize the soleniod (sometimes it's reversed).......if it has only one small stud, then the other side of the circuit is internally grounded......don't forget it takes two wires to engage the electromagnet in the solenoid...

Special Solenoid Applications | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

look at the picture here and it shows how they put them together......with only one stud the other wire is hooked up inside the switch......either way it still takes positive and negative to complete the circuit to engage the solenoid.....

 

[Soundguy]

also remember that all 4 stud solenoids are not the same.

isolated base ones take + and - tot he small studs to operate.

others are ignition bypass style and take + to one terminal, and the other terminal provides + to the ignition coil , bypassing any ignition resistance in line.

be sure which you have.

also.. on 3 terminal units.. they can be wired internally hot so ground activates the termina ( like a ford 8n ) l, or internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

 

[Gods Country]

also remember that all 4 stud solenoids are not the same.

isolated base ones take + and - tot he small studs to operate.

others are ignition bypass style and take + to one terminal, and the other terminal provides + to the ignition coil , bypassing any ignition resistance in line.

be sure which you have.

also.. on 3 terminal units.. they can be wired internally hot so ground activates the termina ( like a ford 8n ) l, or internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

So any advice on how to make this determination?
This seems to be where I'm more than a little confused.:confused2:

 

[wdchyd]

With a volt/ohm meter or continuity tester you can determine which one you have by figuring if the internal wire goes to the + positive side or - negative side...

another way to find out would be to use the volt/ohm meter and test to see if you get positive signal from the small wire (normally connected to the small post but removed) when engaging the start switch.......this would show if the internal wiring in the solenoid is grounded to the negative side.....in this case you would read continuity from the small stud to the outside of the switch.....

if you read continuity from the positive (batt) side to the small stud then it will be like a Ford 8N where machine ground will activate the soleniod....

It's not as difficult as it seems to you......maybe just go to an Auto Parts store with part in hand and let them test it.....

 

[Gods Country]

It would appear that I have continuity between the small stud and the housing/mounting bracket.

I do not have continuity from the large stud to the small stud. In this case I had to check the stud that would go to the starter. The lead from the battery cannot be checked since this is where the issue occurred/was occurring. That particular stud no longer is insulated from the housing. In any case I don稚 believe it would matter which of the larger studs was connecting to the battery or starter.

Just to be clear on the wiring. There is a wire that was routed from the battery solenoid stud (the positive battery cable and this wire shared the same connection on the solenoid) which leads to the key. There is a jumper from the key to the starter switch (a push button). From that switch the circuit is completed via another wire back to the small stud on the solenoid.

So what do I have?

 

[wdchyd]

This one will be the easiest to find..very common...the positive signal coming from the start switch engages the solenoid.......Done......:thumbsup:

 

[wdchyd]

internally grounded so hot activates the terminal.

soundguy

:thumbsup:..........

 

[Soundguy]

yep...

 

[Gods Country]

Well I picked up a solenoid today at Napa. Checked it the same way I checked the old one. Dropped it in and presto, fully functioning grader. :thumbsup: Total cost $13

A huge thank you to Wdchyd & Soundguy for steering me in the right direction, so I didn't cook three different solenoid's (or anything else) before finding the correct one.

Now I've got more work to do!

 

[wdchyd]

Go Gettum..!!

 

[Soundguy]

glad to help.

soundguy