Tiller HP Rating - Tiller vs Tractor

[Michigan_Mike]

I'm looking at a used tiller, but it has a hp rating of 30 to 35, and my JD790 is rated at 27, (24 at the PTO)
Is that too much of a difference?

 

[darkviper]

the important thing is how wide does it till?

 

[jinman]

I'm looking at a used tiller, but it has a hp rating of 30 to 35, and my JD790 is rated at 27, (24 at the PTO)
Is that too much of a difference?

Mike, if it's a good deal, then you should consider that you can remove sets of tines (they just bolt on) if the tiller is too large. If you buy a tiller that's too small, you can't do that.

 

[Bird]

Mike, I think most tillers have two horsepower ratings; a minimum and a maximum. The minimum is what the manufacturer thinks you need to till normal or average soil to its maximum depth at optimum speeds. If your soil is very sandy, already pretty soft, etc. you can certainly use less horsepower, you can go slower, or as jinman said, remove some tines. The maximum rating is for the amount of torque the gearbox can stand without being damaged. You can use a bigger tractor with more horsepower, but if it tears up the gearbox, and the manufacturer knows what did it, they wouldn't honor the warranty. But you can still safely use it if it has a slip clutch properly adjusted, or a soft enough shear bolt, without hurting it.

My inclination is to tell you to go for it.

 

[Michigan_Mike]

60", which is about the width of the 790's back tires

 

[Michigan_Mike]

Thanks. I hadn't thought of removing tines. That makes sense.

Now, when I inspect it, is there anything I should be looking for?
Bent or broken tines is one obvious thing, but what else?

 

[Bird]

Thanks. I hadn't thought of removing tines. That makes sense.

Now, when I inspect it, is there anything I should be looking for?
Bent or broken tines is one obvious thing, but what else?

Is there oil in the gearbox? Can you turn the PTO driveshaft by hand? If so, how much "slack" is there; i.e., how much can you turn it without turning the tine? Any missing nuts or bolts?

 

[sandman2234]

I would hope you have already bought it, if the price is right, and you need one (and it passed your inspection).
Rusted sheet metal, obviously bad bearings, etc
Just how picky you get, depends a lot on you, and the price.
David from jax

 

[bontai_Joe]

Things to check for:
1.Oil leaks around ALL the shafts and the gear box
2.Chewed up or worn splines on the main drive shaft
3.Severe rust on the housing (severe meaning holes rusted through)
4.Severe "play" in the drive shaft where rotating the shaft in either direction does not move the tines at first.
5.Where can you get replacement tines at? And what do they cost?
6.Mounting points severely worn.
7.Housing badly bent or cracked requiring welding to fix.
8.Tine wear, missing tines, bent tines, damage to the shaft the tines mount on.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

One thing yo forgot slip clutch. If it doesn't have one make shure you get one

 

[darkviper]

60", which is about the width of the 790's back tires

i would think that would be fine. I have a 54" behind a 20 HP kioti 15.5 PTO and it never complains. So you should be good. Bear in mind that this is a 4 tine per shank as opposed to some that is 6. I have a 47 Inch also that has 6 per shank. Does a better job but works the tractor a tad harder. Still pulls it with no problem.

 

[Michigan_Mike]

Thanks everyone.
The owner says it "hardly ever been used" and is asking for just under $1,000.
I'll let you know what happens.

 

[OkieG]

60", which is about the width of the 790's back tires

That's the issue with my little 19PTO hp tractor, too. 48" tiller won't cover the tracks, while a 60" will. Didn't want to deal with "off set". Got the 60" version...no regrets. My garden began as just clay.

Another option not yet mentioned is that you can make a couple passes beginning at less than full depth, if necessary. Two or more passes is not a big deal if you don't have a lot of land to till.

Removing tines sounds to me like, in the end, the dirt might benefit from another pass anyway. (have never tried removing tines.)

Even with the skids set for full depth, subsequent passes will till deeper as the skids settle down in the soft soil from the previous pass.

My amatuer opinion is you won't be disappointed with a 60" unit...and regardless of hp rating, I would certainly favor choosing an implement that will cover your tracks. I think, as general rule of thumb, an implement that covers tracks (and not too much more) should not be too much for the tractor pulling it.

OkieG

 

[fasb43]

You are right to question whether your tractor's horsepower will be sufficient for an implement. Having said that, I have a 28 HP JD, and I use it with a 60" King Kutter tiller. I have very heavy clay soil. The JD has absolutely no problem with the tiller. You should be fine.

 

[neverenough]

3 things to consider when looking at tillers.

1) HP rating of the gear box. As long as the gearbox is rated higher than the tractor, your ok.

2) Tilling width. The tiller either needs to be centered and till both tire tracks, or be off set and till one tire track.

3) The most important one, weight of the tiller. Make sure your tractor and 3 pt can safely lift the tiller. Adding weight to the front is only for better steering in rough terrain when the front might bounce and become "light", it's not to keep the front end down while you try and lift an impliment too heavy for your tractor/3ph.