Howling Idlers - LA145 48" deck

jinman · May 15, 2011

Well, it was time for spring maintenance on my LA145 last Friday. I replaced the 3-yr old battery that had ceased to hold a charge and pulled the deck for maintenance. I put on a new set of sharp blades and checked the idlers. Sure enough, one was getting loose in the bearing as I suspected from hearing it howling before pulling the deck. I replaced it with a ready spare and greased the deck good before putting it back on. It's ready for another cutting season.

That makes my 4th small idler replacement on this deck that has two small and one large idlers. I replaced the large idler last year and have a spare on the shelf. Since this was my last small idler, I ordered a half-dozen new idlers from an eBay vendor and also a half-dozen new blades. One can never have too many spare idlers if you own a LA145.

Even the local JD dealer is keeping a dozen or so of these idlers in stock. He told me they are the #1 complaint on this mower deck, right before the main spindles which are the #2 complaint. This deck reminds me of the old Harley-Davidsons. You have to keep a set of tools and spare parts handy because you're gonna be fixin' it a lot.:laughing:

rayikeo2 · May 16, 2011

I have the Paranna 44", now 11 years old. I replaced only 1 idler and "NO" spindles and am still on the first original blades. I work this deck hard, mowing rocky land on my LX279. I don't pick up sticks either, I just mow over them. I love this machine, however I did have to re-design the undercarige of the deck by removing the ABS housing that dirrects the grass flow because sticks were clogging it up all the time. The first battery lasted 9 years. Just the luck of the draw I guess. Now after bragging, the outfit will probably all go to pot this year.

jinman · May 16, 2011

rayikeo2 said:
I have the Paranna 44", now 11 years old.

The Piranha decks are definitely much better built. The LX series of mowers is surely a whole step above the 100 series. The reason I'm posting my troubles is to chronicle how these lower-end JD mowers must have an expectation of constant maintenance. For someone who checks regularly and does constant maintenance, they can be okay. But for someone wanting to buy a long-lasting mower with minimum maintenance, these would not be my choice. Cost of parts is low, but so is the quality of those parts. However, only the deck seems to be problematic. The rest of the mower has been pretty reliable with the exception of the carburetor float needle valve sticking on the B&S engine.

90cummins · May 16, 2011

To extend the life of my idler bearings on occasion I put light (thin) oil on the bearing if the pulley sits flat and let it set between mowings to allow it to slowly enter the bearing. Prior to using I wipe what is left off.
Most bearing have only 1 seal and this usually works. Or better yet with oil sitting on the bearing seal use a very small screwdriver or similar tool and push the sealing edge back to allow the oil to seep in.
If the pulleys are vertical I remove them and lay them flat.
I've been doing this for quite a few years and it certainly has helped keep the bearings (HAPPY).
I don't worry about the small amount that (MAY) get on the belt.
Tim

joecdeere · May 17, 2011

they make a needle attachment for your grease gun that will let you poke through the bearing seal and inject more/new grease into the bearing

like this -

Amazon.com: Plews 05-037 Grease Gun Injector Needle Nozzle: Home Improvement

mjncad · May 18, 2011

The problem with any Big Box Mart price lawn tractor is that they definitely aren't engineered to be rugged like their big brothers.

Since you have a 48" deck, I'll assume you have an electric PTO for the deck. Wait till the clutch and switch puke, then you're in for some relatively expensive fun.

Check out https://picasaweb.google.com/jtpyo.mjn/JohnDeereL130Misc#5382692278412032866 this picture and later for the fun I had with only 56-hours on the clock.

jinman · May 18, 2011

mjncad said:
Since you have a 48" deck, I'll assume you have an electric PTO for the deck. Wait till the clutch and switch puke, then you're in for some relatively expensive fun.

Yep, when one spindle cratered on our mower, it put such great torque on the electric clutch that it broke the metal strap holding the clutch in place. You'd expect on a well-engineered product to have the clutch slip instead of hold firm and self-destruct, but that's another story. Anyhow, the clutch spinning ripped out the wires. I still had a good connector and was able to splice in connectors in the middle of the harness to put it all back together. I got a new strap and also put a heavy spring inline to help the strap and keep it from being fatigued. Anyhow, I avoided buying a new clutch. I just checked this morning and the cost of a new clutch has gone up to $210. I think you said in your photos that you paid $150 for yours. The price is going up.:thumbdown:

whateg0 · May 18, 2011

When I have a part that is continually failing, I start looking at alternate ways of repairing it. Not sure what the deck on that mower looks like, but it seems like it should be pretty easy to fit a better idler to it. Heck, you could probably even press the bearings out and get a better replacement from a bearing supply house.

Dave

SandburRanch · May 18, 2011

whateg0 said:
When I have a part that is continually failing, I start looking at alternate ways of repairing it. Not sure what the deck on that mower looks like, but it seems like it should be pretty easy to fit a better idler to it. Heck, you could probably even press the bearings out and get a better replacement from a bearing supply house.

Dave

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That's what I do. On the idler in question, if the rivets are drilled out the idler pulley becomes two haves and the bearing falls out. I use pop rivets to re-assemble with a quality bearing inside.

mjncad · May 19, 2011

jinman said:
I just checked this morning and the cost of a new clutch has gone up to $210. I think you said in your photos that you paid $150 for yours. The price is going up.:thumbdown:

$210 for a piece of crap clutch! Good grief, they used to be around $135 before mine puked. The Deere parts guy told me those clutches are crap and they are nothing but pure profit for Deere since so many puke.

I think if my clutch and/or trans craps on me this year, I'll junk the L(emon)-130, and get something heavier duty; though I sure as heck don't need to spend the money on a new rig; but throwing good money after bad on a Big Box Mart special is not wise either.