How to repair a concrete apron?

[rambler]

Well, every time I roll over it with the tractor now it wobbles and seems to be getting worse so it is not just for looks. I don't know how to build a gravel alternative. If you look at the photos the threshold for the barn is about a foot off the ground.

Perhaps it is just as hard for you to get gravel as it is to get concrete?

Just make a mound of gravel, make it about 5x farther out than this concrete starts, and slope the mound up to the door. Just a ramp of gravel, or a nicely psloped pile of gravel, to drive on.


--->Paul

 

[Deerlope]

Get some treated lumber and build one out of wood. It will last forever and will not crack.

 

[Dargo]

Doing it right will require tearing it all out and redoing.

I'm no concrete contractor, but I've poured well over 1000 yards at my place so far. I agree with the quoted post which I'm sure also is suggesting rebar reinforcement in the new ramp. I find old concrete without rebar to be very easy to tear out.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Do you have access to metal plating? Just build a metal ramp.

 

[IslandTractor]

The gravel alternative is intriguing. Anyone have a suggestion on an internet how-to piece for that type of project. I imagine there is more to it than just dumping a bunch of gravel and raking it. How does one keep it from losing form over time? Is gravel any better than concrete up against a wooden barn?

I'm still leaning towards a rebuild and extension of the concrete apron for the simple reason that I know the first one lasted a hundred years or so. If I do that I'll clearly use rebar reinforcement as suggested by several of you. However I'll keep an open mind for alternatives. Probably won't get to this for a couple of months anyway.

 

[firemanpat2910]

the ramp that we drive the forklift up and down at my workplace, is concrete ontop of asphalt. after several years of it settling and the forklift compacting the asphalt at the base of ramp. I bought a 1 inch thick 4'x8' of plate steel. The only problem is its slippery when wet, I keep saying I am gonna take it to my shop and weld some traction v 's to it. This may or may not be an option for you. I also have hauled the steel with me to jobsites to facilitate using forklift on customers uneven parking lots. so it might serve other uses for you

 

[Charlesaf3]

A wood ramp would probably last as long if done properly, and probably be easier.

For gravel - forget what its called around here (I think its crusher run generally) ie fines up to 3/4 will pack down like concrete - I'd just dump it down, compact it in flights, and let it find its own angle of repose.

Or depending one what the drive is, put a long dirt ramp in.

Wood would be best for avoiding future rot though, as anything that holds moisture against untreated wood is bad. A lot of steps out there cause trouble for the wood behind them, you want to let that wood dry out.

 

[Ford850]

The gravel alternative is intriguing. Anyone have a suggestion on an internet how-to piece for that type of project. I imagine there is more to it than just dumping a bunch of gravel and raking it. How does one keep it from losing form over time? Is gravel any better than concrete up against a wooden barn?

I'm still leaning towards a rebuild and extension of the concrete apron for the simple reason that I know the first one lasted a hundred years or so. If I do that I'll clearly use rebar reinforcement as suggested by several of you. However I'll keep an open mind for alternatives. Probably won't get to this for a couple of months anyway.

Gravel is the easiest if you have access to it. As the others said, crusher run, 411, 3/4 down to fines, or whatever they call it in your area is what you want. You can add a treated 2x10 on each side as a frame, angled down away from the barn and into the ground, to hold the sides intact. A few stakes on each board will hold them in place. Dump the crushed stone and drive your tractor over it to compact it. Do this layers, about 3" at a time, to get the best compaction. Save some of the gravel to top it off in a few months after it had a chance to settle some too. I have this on both doors to my barn and it stays in place surprisingly well. I topped it off with #8's (small clean 3/8" crushed stone).

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks. I will look into the "gravel" option further. I can always bring that out to the island myself in small SUV towed trailer sized batches so it might be quite feasible. It also sounds like there is less potential for disaster compared to the concrete.

What do you put up against the barn sill? Could I just put a 2x12 pressure treated plank there or do you let the gravel actually touch the structure?

 

[Charlesaf3]

I'd put the PT up against the sill. Ideally with 1/8 inch spacers or some such to allow a bit of breathing.

I bet you can get by without the wood sides - just have the apron with 3 sides. I've done something similar leading up to the ramp I'm building for my barn - I terminated the ramp driveway side with 8" granite, and built the gravel up to it. Can't see any reason why 4" more would be a problem.

You could even break up the concrete into chunks and re-use it as part of the base of the fill - it'll save some gravel hauling.