TSMART said:
On a Jinma 224 (2005)...does it just pry out? I am looking for a short. Tractor wont start; turn the key and even the battery gage does't twitch. Totally dead, yet good battery/connections etc. All connections from battery to starter checked, all fuses checked/replaced with american ones....even checked the ground wire on the back of the fuse box...
Last week I reported my gages were down, came back by themselves....they went out when I hit the lights switch....but I cannot figure it out thistime on my very limited knowledge....
Next thing I plan to do is find that ford replacement ignition switch
(anybody have that number?) and try that, less someone in here can point me in another direction....
If you pop the hood and look in across the top of the fuel tank, you will see two metal brackets that run vertically across the gauge opening behind the gauge. These are held to the back of the gauge cluster with threaded studs that have nuts on the end of them. My 05 284 has wing nuts that hold them in place. If you unscrew these, the gauge cluster should lift out of the panel to the limits of it's wiring.
You don't really need to pull the gauge cluster as the only power wiring used in the start circuit can be seen on the right side of the rear gauge panel on the terminals for the amp gauge labeled "A+" and "A-".
I don't remember if I posted the partial schematic I have been working on for your other problem, but here it is. The start circuit portion is complete and is shown across the top. The numbers alongside the wires are the wire tag numbers I found on my 05's wiring harness when I went thru it. Your 200 series may be similar being the same vintage.
If you have a volt meter, you can step thru the circuit pretty easilly measuring for 12VDC between the following points and chassis ground(bare bolt head on the frame/engine). For this system to work properly, you need a good electrical connection where the battery - terminal bolts to the tractor frame. It is quite common to find this negative battery cable end bolted down onto a painted surface. Add a little corrosion on the bolt threads and you have a bad connection. If this is the case, I would reccomend unbolting it, using a whire brush/scraper to get a good metal to metal contact between wireterminal end and frame. Rebolt and coat with grease to keep moisture out and slow corrosion.
Here is a quick walkthru of the start circuit. I will show wire numbers like this (#1).
Some of these measurements will have to be taken with the key turned to the start position so make absolutely certain that the transmission is in neutral and or disable the engine by holding out the engine stop cable on the injector pump with a pair of vise grips. Pull the stop handle all the way out and clamp the vise grips at the base of the pull rod to hold it in the shutdown position(engine will crank, but can't start). People have been run over by their tractor while troubleshooting the starter or attempting to start the engine while not in the drivers seat so be carefull... Here is how the wiring goes.
1. Battery + terminal via large gauge wire to starter + terminal.
2. Starter + terminal via smaller wire (#2) to main 30A fuse.
3. Main 30A fuse via (#3) to amp gauge "A-" terminal.
4. Amp gauge "A+" terminal via (#5) to ignition key switch terminal 1.
There is a plug in this circuit that has the wiring for 3 and 4(wiring to-from the amp gauge) and where the alternator power is combined with the #5 wire but I did not draw it on the schematic. On my tractor it hangs behind the panel just to the left of the ignition switch.
5. Key switch terminal 4(key in start position) via (#10) to the clutch safety switch located on left side of transmission near clutch pedal)
6. Clutch safety switch(clutch pedal in) via (#11) to starter start terminal.
From here it completes the electrical circuit back to the battery - terminal via the starter solenoid coil and the engine/chassis steel. You should be able to measure from any of these points(with switches in the proper positions) to chassis ground and get 12VDC. If at any point you can't find the voltage, the problem lies somewhere between there and the last place you found voltage. If the voltage measured in the circuit before the key(steps 1-4) dissappears when you turn the key, you have a weak connection that is oppening as soon as you try and draw any electrical current thru it. If you get voltage all the way to the starter start terminal and it still dosn't work, your starter solenoid may be defective.
My tractor has failed to start twice, both problems were related to the clutch safety switch. On one occasion while busting brush, a stick got up under the left floor plate and tangled with the wiring, separating the plug that goes to the clutch switch. On the other occasion, the clutch safety switch nut vibrated loose and the switch backed out enough so that the clutch pedal plate that pushes on it could not press it far enough to complete the circuit.
Here is a link to Greg G's post with the information, but the link to the switch part number is no good anymore. Perhaps Greg has the number somewhere.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ment-switch-jinma-tractor.html?highlight=ford
Good Luck
