How to remove drywall with wiring underneath

[Travelover]

I'm going to replace my service panel which is recessed flush in the wall. The good news is that my neighbor is a retired electrician and will be helping me. The bad news is that he wants me to strip the 3/4" drywall from floor to ceiling in the stud space above and below the current box. I'm so grateful for his help, I'm not going to argue that.

My question is how to remove the drywall in such a way it is easy to replace and not run the risk of cutting into any of the wires underneath. Ultimately I want to cut the old drywall back to the center of the studs so I have something to attach the new drywall to.

How would you attack this project?

 

[RNeumann]

Panels are set between two studs. Just set a skil saw to 1/2” and cut vertically about 3/4” off the edge of the panel box (not panel cover). Cut the drywall tape at the top with a knife and pull both pieces off (above and below the panel).

The drywall can be cut with about anything- it doesn’t have to be a skil saw. I’ve seen and used a grinder with cutoff wheel, utility knife and reciprocating saw. They all work- drywall is soft and easy to work with.

 

[Travelover]

...........The drywall can be cut with about anything- it doesn’t have to be a skil saw. I’ve seen and used a grinder with cutoff wheel, utility knife and reciprocating saw. They all work- drywall is soft and easy to work with.

Thanks - this might be a good use for a oscillating multitool.

 

[RNeumann]

Thanks - this might be a good use for a oscillating multitool.

That works too. Draw a vertical line and go for it! You will hit a few nails or screws on the way but that’s all part of cutting on a stud.

 

[tjkubota93]

Thanks - this might be a good use for a oscillating multitool.

It will not be as messy if you use a utility knife with a new blade. 1 pass with a straightedge, then multiple passes till you have cut through it.

Power tools + drywall = flying dust

 

[spitter]

Score along centerline of studs on both side's of electrical pannel . Make several passes when u hit a nail or screw pull it out . Use 4' level as straight edge .I 've been a rocker for 40 years and that's the fastest way we tried rock router small circular saw, and fein and always go back to utility knife . Fastest cleanest way.:drink:

 

[Paddy]

cutting down the center of a stud can be hard to keep a straight line for all the nails/screws. I just cut along the inside of the stud. I would plan to just use a small nailer attached to the side of the stud.

Don't try to take one large pc out, take it in smaller sections. I'd cut a 12 inch square using a utility knife. Then you can feel above and below for any wires. If clear, use the dry wall saw along the inside of the stud. In no time it will all be removed

 

[teejk]

Thanks - this might be a good use for a oscillating multitool.

Yup. Perfect tool for that job because you can keep a straight line and go as deep as you want. I've only owned one for a few years and wish I had bought one a long time ago. You might want to consider opening 2 stud bays leaving a full stud in the middle and a 1/2 stud on each of the sides to make a more invisible repair although 3/4" drywall is probably stiff enough to resist bowing and maybe not necessary.

 

[EddieWalker]

A cheap osculating saw is $100. A good one is $200. Blades are very expensive. I have both a cheap one and an expensive one and dozens of blades. I would just use a utility knife with a new blade and cut my line along the middle of the stud, then hit the middle section lightly with a hammer. The sheetrock wont come out, but it will break at the cut and then you can use your knife to finish cutting it out and clean it all up. I always leave about 2 inches of sheetrock at the top and the bottom so I have something to attach the fiberglass tape to.

 

[PILOON]

Utility knife (or saw) along side of the stud. Punch the drywall with your fist and pull it away.
Unless U have a very steady hand you could consider using a straight edge to make that cut.

Using a saw or other power tool however makes more dust than you might want.

When replacing the drywall simply add a furring strip and re attach new drywall.
Bevel the splice with a blade B4 taping helps for a nice joint.

As Eddie suggests leave some top and bottom for splicing and if you want strength you can add a backer by attaching wood strips with screws.
(I like strips of plywood as it wont split)

 

[teejk]

A cheap osculating saw is $100. A good one is $200. Blades are very expensive. I have both a cheap one and an expensive one and dozens of blades. I would just use a utility knife with a new blade and cut my line along the middle of the stud, then hit the middle section lightly with a hammer. The sheetrock wont come out, but it will break at the cut and then you can use your knife to finish cutting it out and clean it all up. I always leave about 2 inches of sheetrock at the top and the bottom so I have something to attach the fiberglass tape to.

I rarely buy cheap tools but took a flyer on one at Menards a few years ago. It came with an assortment of blades/scrapers and sanding attachments for $59. I don't think it leaves much dust and is really just a powered utility knife.

 

[NTG]

Thanks - this might be a good use for a oscillating multitool.

That's my go-to for something like that. Plus it doesn't throw a lot of dust.

 

[Travelover]

......... I always leave about 2 inches of sheetrock at the top and the bottom so I have something to attach the fiberglass tape to.

This was my next question. It is in a nicely finished garage that has orange peel texture on the walls and ceiling, so I'd like to make it easy to re-make the wall-to-ceiling finish. How do you make the horizontal cut without worrying about cutting into a wire? Just use a utility knife and cut most of the way through?

 

[teejk]

This was my next question. It is in a nicely finished garage that has orange peel texture on the walls and ceiling, so I'd like to make it easy to re-make the wall-to-ceiling finish. How do you make the horizontal cut without worrying about cutting into a wire? Just use a utility knife and cut most of the way through?

By code you cannot have any wire near a surface. That explains why drywall screws are 1 1/4" long and the wire runs are in the middle of the stud.

 

[/pine]

Unless you plan on reusing the textured panels that are to be removed/replaced...you can knock a hole in the middle and reach inside to push wires etc. back...

On a side note FWIW...
An outside of the box technique often used by repair work specialists is making clean as possible cuts...then using added backing where needed and using construction adhesive to glue all the original panels back in place...The use of tape (paper or fiber) is not required (the glue eliminates movement which the tape usually overcomes)...Then the new joints are repaired with a quality (non shrinking) acrylic calking...This technique eliminates the typical need for tape and mud...I have seen a lot of repairs done with this method that after some touch up paint that were almost invisible...

 

[MossRoad]

When I've removed drywall, I've always marked it with a pencil, used a razor knife to score the straight lines on the edges, then top and bottom. Then go over the score lines 3-4 times, depending on the thickness of the drywall. Then I'd make an X score from corner to corner. A couple-3 passes on the X lines, then tap the center of the X with a hammer. It makes 4 nice triangular pieces that you can just pull out.

I try and work in square sections, so 16" on center studs, I'd make a 16" square. Then another below that, and another, etc... Little mess with the razor knife. I've tried it with an oscillating tool. The tool works great! But it does make dust compared to a razor.

 

[Travelover]

By code you cannot have any wire near a surface. That explains why drywall screws are 1 1/4" long and the wire runs are in the middle of the stud.

I hear ya, but my luck runs closer to Murphy's law.

Unless you plan on reusing the textured panels that are to be removed/replaced...you can knock a hole in the middle and reach inside to push wires etc. back...

On a side note FWIW...
An outside of the box technique often used by repair work specialists is making clean as possible cuts...then using added backing where needed and using construction adhesive to glue all the original panels back in place...The use of tape (paper or fiber) is not required (the glue eliminates movement which the tape usually overcomes)...Then the new joints are repaired with a quality (non shrinking) acrylic calking...This technique eliminates the typical need for tape and mud...I have seen a lot of repairs done with this method that after some touch up paint that were almost invisible...

I like this - I guess I could attempt to take it out carefully and if it fails, back to slinging the drywall mud...........

 

[Stimw]

I have a HF Oscillating Tool that lists for $19.99 that was on sale for less. (blades under $10.00)
I have been dealing with drywall repairs and the saw works great!
I use the half circle blade and can follow a pencil line with no problems.
Love how you can install the blade in many positions for the job you are doing.
The tool has many uses beyond drywall.
My first encounter with one years ago was having a Dr remove a plaster cast from my wrist.
I thought it was a circular saw tool when he hit the cast and I jumped back and hollered at him to HOLD ON!

 

[Travelover]

I took a shot at just using a utility knife down the center of the stud. It turns out part of it was glued as well as nailed. It's torn up a bit at the top back, but I may be able to clean it up enough to reuse the panel. I think for the top section I'll cut next to the stud and secure a 1x2 to attach it to when I reinstall it. As seen in the photo, there were definitely some wires within 1 1/4" of the stud surface.

I appreciate all the helpful suggestions.

 

[NTG]

You were right about Murphy.... you know how that goes, whether it's a licensed electrician, inspected by city, etc, etc..... sometimes things just happen. Always best to be careful. When you patch it back, you may be able to duplicate the knock-down by just having a little mud on something long like a steel ruler. When you throw it at the patch, slap it against the open palm of your other hand. Then knock it down with your mud knife. If you don't get the desired result, just scrape it off and try again. You'll get something acceptable in a few tries. You may have to do more area than just the patch to deceive the eye, but after it's painted, no one will know but you.