Tiller How to hook up a tiller

[s_harper]

I have a used tiller that came with my father in law's Mitsubishi tractor (grey market). Anyway, I want to use it in my yard, but the connection from the tractor to the tiller that came with it (looks like a fairly short u-joint and some kind of metallic bracket) doesn't seem to fit my tractor (YM 2310D). What do I need to do to hook it up to my 3 point hitch and use it?

I jimmy rigged it when I first got it, and finally got it actually hooked up to the tractor, but it did nothing but bounce up and down on the dirt. It didn't sound or look good for either the tractor or the tiller, so I stopped, then winter hit and I haven't thought about it since. Of course, now I want to use it again.

Can anyone with experience hooking tillers up let me know exactly what I need to get so it will work properly? Thanks


Spence

 

[KiotiJohn]

Hey Spence. Without a picture of your setup, I can't say much about it. Some of the gray market tillers were designed for two point hitches and wouldn't hook up to your 3pt without modification. Also, some of them turn in the opposite direction from US models, which "sounds" like what you experienced.

Can you take some pics of your setup and post them here? You will need to edit the photo's quailty settings so that the file size is less than 100K to post.

John

 

[s_harper]

Thanks for the reply. I will take some pics today and attach them. I thought about that after I posted. I will take pics of the bracket it came with, the tiller and the u-joint thing, then I will post them. Thanks again.

Spence

 

[s_harper]

Re: How to hook up a tiller *DELETED*

Post deleted by s_harper

 

[s_harper]

I found out how to upload the photos to the Tractorbynet site. It appears that getting photos on here can be done by attaching it, which I found out later, or by uploading into your account, which is what I did. Therefore, I have links for the photos that I hope will work. If it works, any comments on how I need to hook this thing up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Spence

Tiller pic - back

Tiller pic - front

Tiller attachments (came with it)

 

[KiotiJohn]

Turn the shaft on the tiller to see which way the tines rotate when you do. Your tractor PTO probably rotates counterclockwise right?
So turn the shaft on the tiller counterclockwise and see if the tines turn from the back of the tiller to the front. Or, you can turn the tines and see which way the shaft turns.

Some of those tillers rotate the opposite way.

The PTO shaft is too short to fit your tractor right? You need to go to your dealer and get a proper length shaft and put it on the tiller.

The extra male splined shaft can be swapped out for the female one to fit whatever shaft you need to hook to the tractor. It looks like what you have is too short. I think the other piece is a top link adapter for using with a tractor that was originally a 2 pt. hitch type.

I haven't used one of these gray market tillers, but I do know that they come in different configurations, and it seems yours came with accesories to adapt it.

I'm not sure what should be done if it rotates the wrong way. It seems to me someone posted about changing one to counter from clockwise, but I don't remember for sure who or when.

Seems to me though that the right length PTO shaft is all you need, and you have both types of connectors there to use with it.

What's on there has no way to slide to accommodate the movement of the hitch as other PTO shafts would do.

A local tractor dealer should be able to hook you up with the proper shaft.
John

 

[KiotiJohn]

I just went to get a shower as I'm going on call now and was thinking again of what you have there.

Replace your top link with the one that came with the tiller. That should put it at just about the right length to hook up to the PTO on the tractor.

You have to make sure though that the tines are turning forward on the tiller. If they are, and you're bouncing, adjust the top link shorter to make the tines dig in more aggresively.

I'm not sure I would want to use the tiller without a slip clutch or shear pin to protect the PTO. If when moving the hitch up and down it seems there is any binding (watch the shaft), you may have to readjust the top link. It's still probable that you'll need to get a different PTO shaft for it. If I were there I could tell better. I can't do from pictures too well!

John

 

[s_harper]

Thanks for the advice.

The blue bracket seems like it should go right in between the top link attachment area on the tractor, but it doesn't quite fit. I think I could make it fit by drilling another hole in it, but I was a little afraid to do that thinking I must just be doing it wrong. Basically, the holes don't line up in the block with my 3 point upper attachment. Would I still use my adjustable top link with this bracket?

As far as the rotation of the tines. I have to say, I am not sure on that one. It seems like they might have been turning back to front when I hooked it up before. I will have to check that out tomorrow. It seems that I had a walk behind garden tiller at one time that the tines turned backward like that, and it worked great because the tines turned opposite the powered wheels creating balance within the tiller. I do think my PTO turns counter clock wise, but I am not positive on that either. Both the tractor and tiller are grey market so I would think they would be designed with the same rotation.

I also told my father in law that I would fix a leak from the gear box while I had it, so I broke into that today. About 5 million bolts holding it on and a crappy paper gasket in between. I have it all apart now, but I should be able to clean it up and re-seal it tomorrow so I can try to use it again. The drive chain inside that thing is freakin' huge. Probably over an inch in width and thickness.

I will look at this a little more closely tomorrow again. Any other advice is appreciated. I can take more pics of it if needed to clarfiy, just tell me what part of it you need to see.


Spence

 

[DavesTractor]

That Iseki tiller is the proper rotation, and you guys are correct on the top link idea. They use a two-piece toplink. Iseki and Yanmar use a different toplink bolt spacing. I had pallets of these that I gave to a scrap metal guy when we moved out of the Yanmar grey market business. He probably has them still and would sell you one if you need it, but I'd just drill the one you have. As advised, make sure the driveshaft is neither too long (damages tractor) nor too short (comes apart while spinning...not nice).

Pull up on the little pin near your range selector and put your tractor in crawl mode when tilling. It should move about 6 feet per minute in crawl 1 at 2400 RPM.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Thanks Dave for clearing that up. I've seen plenty of those tillers around, but I never took a close look at any of them. I have a Woods made for the US market, and as you know, they're different.

John

 

[s_harper]

Dave,

I would also like to thank you for clearing that up. When I first looked at it, I thought about just drilling it, but then common sense kicked in, and I just figured I was making a mistake somehow. If I remember correctly, the holes nearly line up, but don't, so I was kind of afraid to drill it. I think I will fill in the previous hole with my mig welder, then just drill it in the correct spot.

I am assuming that I use the #1 PTO speed for this, correct - since it is grey market it has 4 PTO speeds? And, I will set the tractor at roughly a 6 foot per minute pace at 2400 RPM speed - that will most likely require 1st gear, low range. Do I have a "little pin" somewhere I don't know about for extra low range? I have attached a pic of my range selector, and there is a small "pin", if you will, next to it that I have never used. Can you confirm if this is what you are talking about? By the way, while I was taking the pic, I tried to pull up on it and it won't budge. Maybe I need to start the tractor first, /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif .

Thanks for all of the help so far.

One last question. My father in law added those wheels to the back of the tiller - see the tiller pic in one of the previous posts. Apparently when he got it, it didn't have anything back there and he assumed it needed wheels. Is that correct? They can be moved up or down using the handle, and he just bolted them on, so they can be removed. Having never used one, I just want to make sure they are supposed to be there so I don't screw something up.


Spence

 

[KiotiJohn]

many of the Iseki tillers came with gauge wheels which helps position them above the ground when the hicth is not a postion control hitch. I've often seen them with and without the wheels.

I know that many of the japanese implements are designed to run at 1000 RPM, but I'm not sure about these tillers, it's been too long ago that I researched them (over two years) and I just can't remember the particulars.

From what I see in the photo, that "pin" has a C clip at the bottom, therefore would not be a switch. I'm not sure you have a creeper gear on there, but I'm not an expert on those tractors. Maybe Dave will be able to help.

Also, you can post questions in the gray market section, providing more photos of your setup.

John

 

[s_harper]

Yeah, that was what I thought about the "pin" when I looked at it. I think that 1st gear, low will be faster than 6 feet per minute at 2400 RPM on my tractor, though. I know that the 1st low is very slow (rarely use it for anything, too slow), but I still think it goes faster than 6 feet per minute.

Anyway, Dave if you can comment on that picture I attached and tell me if that is the pin I need to pull, that would be great. If it is the correct pin, is there a trick to operating it? If it isn't the correct "crawl" pin, what is it?

I got the seal redone, but I didn't want to fill it with oil again until the gasket fully cures - 24 hours. Should be able to try it tomorrow again.


Spence