dixiedrifter
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2004
- Messages
- 206
Ok so my M9000 has been making these loud clicking grinding buzzing noises when I go to start it. Finally think I have figured it out the problem... it is a small diode enclosed in a yellow rubber boot behind the alternator. There is also another one up front that I have yet to get to but from what I understand those go bad too. In my case my diode was completely open and blown, meaning current could not flow in either direction. If it was shorted (meaning current could flow both ways that would explain the clicking noise).
Upon dissection/inspection of the diode inside the boot it would appear that the diode is either a 3, 4, or 5 amp glass passivated sinterglass diode, possibly avalanche rated (but shows regular diode on outside of boot) Mine was completely cracked so there was no way to pull any numbers off it to determine the reverse blocking voltage or rated amperage. Definitely not a Vishay as the color is red.
If I had the parts numbers off of it I could cross reference an equivalent diode from alldatasheet dot com and probably get one off ebay for a couple bucks then make a new boot out of some silicone. Worst case scenario measure the resistance of the fuel shutoff solenoid (which I believe is the actual part making the noise) then figure out the amperage rating per ohms law and go from there. Then the only question would remain is how much reverse blocking voltage I would need to block whatever inductive kickback is generated from the solenoid.
Any pictures/numbers on a "shucked" diode would greatly help. Will try and post some pictures of the parts and where they are located tomorrow.
Upon dissection/inspection of the diode inside the boot it would appear that the diode is either a 3, 4, or 5 amp glass passivated sinterglass diode, possibly avalanche rated (but shows regular diode on outside of boot) Mine was completely cracked so there was no way to pull any numbers off it to determine the reverse blocking voltage or rated amperage. Definitely not a Vishay as the color is red.
If I had the parts numbers off of it I could cross reference an equivalent diode from alldatasheet dot com and probably get one off ebay for a couple bucks then make a new boot out of some silicone. Worst case scenario measure the resistance of the fuel shutoff solenoid (which I believe is the actual part making the noise) then figure out the amperage rating per ohms law and go from there. Then the only question would remain is how much reverse blocking voltage I would need to block whatever inductive kickback is generated from the solenoid.
Any pictures/numbers on a "shucked" diode would greatly help. Will try and post some pictures of the parts and where they are located tomorrow.