How to break loose the cylinder

[tractortroof]

Tried the hammer and also a 5 foot fulcrum

This is for a car lift, so it doesn’t have an eye on one end. Do I need to apply heat?

 

[thclimer]

They can be tough. Good luck

Here is a video of some options including heat:

 

[oldnslo]

Is there more than one hole for the spanner? If yes I used an air hammer with punch bit in one hole while someone is pulling on the spanner. Vibration sometimes does wonders.

 

[rScotty]

If it doesn't unscrew easily, you are going to have to get some tools for the job.

I cannot tell from the picture how many slots/pin hoes that the end has to grab onto, so I'd suggest a search of type on Google or Amazon using the keyword: hydraulic cylinder wrench, sometimes called a gland nut wrench.

Cylinders come in all kinds of end slot and pin hole configurations. Some grab at 2,3,or 4 places around the end.

Normally you unscrew the rod end gland nut with the fixed end of the cylinder still fastened to the loader and held against rotation by the eye in the end. Yours looks just about impossible without some sort of jig to hold the cyllinder.

I've been taking my old cylinders to an old-fashioned hydraulic shop that I found by asking at the used implement dealer. They've got all the tools and universal seals. Rebuild cost is $150/cylinder for tractor sizes. Of that, the parts probably aren't more than $20.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[tractortroof]

Mmmkay, this one’s going to the hydraulic repair shop. They charge $200+ in labor and I can see why. This is a big city so prices are high

 

[flyerdan]

+1 on the air hammer, either with a dull chisel on the tool or a pulley driver at the joint where the head threads in. Another set of hands helps immensely on tasks like this.

 

[TMGT]

Is it a threaded or wire retained gland?

 

[tractortroof]

Well, took it down to Hydraulic Supply company, they had it done next day…$375 yikes stuff is getting expensive

 

[YLee Kioti]

View attachment 1774049

Tried the hammer and also a 5 foot fulcrum

This is for a car lift, so it doesn’t have an eye on one end. Do I need to apply heat?

mine had red loctite!
So maybe one of those mini-torches for localized heat to melt product.

 

[YLee Kioti]

If it doesn't unscrew easily, you are going to have to get some tools for the job.

I cannot tell from the picture how many slots/pin hoes that the end has to grab onto, so I'd suggest a search of type on Google or Amazon using the keyword: hydraulic cylinder wrench, sometimes called a gland nut wrench.

Cylinders come in all kinds of end slot and pin hole configurations. Some grab at 2,3,or 4 places around the end.

Normally you unscrew the rod end gland nut with the fixed end of the cylinder still fastened to the loader and held against rotation by the eye in the end. Yours looks just about impossible without some sort of jig to hold the cyllinder.

I've been taking my old cylinders to an old-fashioned hydraulic shop that I found by asking at the used implement dealer. They've got all the tools and universal seals. Rebuild cost is $150/cylinder for tractor sizes. Of that, the parts probably aren't more than $20.
good luck,
rScotty

After much homework, I paid $102.00 for Kioti KL6010 seal kit. About average at most Kioti on line tractor sites.
That's the full kit.
I paid $150 for this at a Victoria Hyd. shop and began leaking again after 5 months into it.
Once I took it apart, realized the internal seals may not have been changed based on condition of one O-ring backing seal.
Plus the cost of a full OEM seal kit 120+labor would have been about 300 plus.
This time I learned to do it myself. The special tools I bought are now paid for and still saved over $40 bucks from taking to a shop.