Responses might have been different if OP had listed where he is going to build his barn.What has the web come to? There was a time when there would have been more than a dozen replies with best available and near exact turn key cost.![]()
He's "down here".That's big money down here and a crane to place them. How would you do it....?
Down here? And Red. Just how far down is he?He's "down here".![]()
Almost to Key West...South Florida...Down here? And Red. Just how far down is he?
I thought about that, but I did that with my concrete garage, and I need more space on the sides. I have the generators and welders and steel shelves, etc.. and no space for the cars in the now 30 foot long building by 12.North Dakota State has a plans library of farm buildings and things like chicken coops, and lying trays. Building Plans
There are plans for several equipment sheds open on one side, base units are 12wX20d-ft. You can extend indefinitely in 12-ft increments.
Costs are all over for building materials right now. I had to estimate costs to strip some vault toilet buildings down to the sheathing and then put new siding trim, and a metal roof on them. My estimate was three times higher, than the initial one from three years ago. And, it was a real bear to get any handle on the pricing on things are moving all over, but generally higher. Structural steel to build some small trail bridges, doubled in the two weeks it was out for bid.
So, until you have your materials bought and onsite, it is really hard, nearly impossible to have any idea of what things cost. I was planning to build a 48X20 tractor and implements shed last summer. I couldn’t get the materials i needed. I’m probably going to build one 12-ft wide pole barn unit this summer, and plan on expanding in the future. The advantage of 12-ft wide cells, is that I can always add another 12-ft unit.
There are plans for several equipment sheds open on one side, base units are 12wX20d-ft. You can extend indefinitely in 12-ft increments.
Well, I built the garage myself till I got to the roof. Nothing I tried worked or even looked good, so ended up paying to have it done, which cost a bit, but looks nice. I just don't have the skill/touch for that part for some reason...You don't have to worry about snow loading down there, but what is your local codes with regard to wind?
You never answered the question of you are building yourself. If not.....hire a local contractor familiar with your area. Get a quote and let him worry bout the design.
But for 20' SPAN.....trusses all day long. You can set them with no equipment....upside down on the header. And have a ground man with a 16' 2x4 flip them upright and a roof guy or two tie in the purlins.
Rafters really aren't gonna be any cheaper considering you need heavier top members....alot more of them to go 2' OC, then a 2x4 at the top to tie them together...then you STILL need purlins or sheathing if you are doing a metal roof.
Around here, a 20' truss at 4'oc would likely be less than $100 per truss. (Just helped a buddy build a building with 32' trusses, 4' OC and they were $135ea.) So 40' length would require 11 trusses....so $1100ish range.
For that span, with a 4/12 pitch you really should use 2x8 rafters. Each one would need to be 12' long. And a 2x4x8 rafter tie at the top.
At 2' of, you would need 42 2x8x12's and 21 2x4x8's. The 2x8's are $25/ea and the 2x4's are $8ea. That's over $1200 just to replicate what trusses do. And gives you no bottom to attach ceiling and lighting.
Everyone has their own opinions....and some people still like rafters. But IMO.....with modern engineered wood trusses....rafters are a thing of the past...(or should be)