How does the parking brake work?

[boostmg]

I have a 3620h ... at times i forget i have the parking brake on which drives me nuts. I'm considering wiring an alarm to remind me.

I was watching a video on international utility tractors and they said if u ever had to replace the parking brake its like a real crappy job, I was just wondering how it works on the hydrostat bransons if its similar to the international or some other type of design.

 

[ptsg]

The brakes on these tractors it's a multidisc setup inside of each rear axle housing that runs under an oil bath, hence the "wet brake" name and why it's important to run the right hydraulic oils.

It's almost like a clutch pack really, although, it's mechanically operated, instead of hydraulically. The parking brake lever just actuates over the brake pedal linkage.

Depending on the tractor, to replace it those discs, it requires the removal of each rear axle housing from the tractor. Not that complicated but the parts are heavy and somewhat awkward to hold on. This also requires draining all of the fluid, so it doesn't make a mess. Others have a cover, like the older 3520, that's easily accessible and doesn't requires to take entire housing out.

I don't you caused any damage to it, as wet brakes can take a beating. It happens so many times to most of us, but a buzzer or something, is definitely a nice idea. Does that tractor have a parking brake light? On mine, the switch doesn't make good contact when it's dirty from dust and whatnot, and won't light up when I apply the parking brake. I have to work the lever up and down till it starts working again.

Here is a picture from the parts manual on the pre 2021 3520H. I don't know how different are the new 2021 models but I'm guessing not much, at least, on the brake setup. Part #4 is the friction discs and part #5 is the steels discs in between.

 

[boostmg]

Interesting i have to look up wet brakes bc i never knew how they worked.

and yea i do have the parking brake light.

 

[Cougsfan]

Thanks for the detailed explanation, Pedro. Those wet brakes are pretty tough and you would have to really do some serious abusing to wear one out. Usually you can tell if the parking brake is still on because your tractor doesn't have enough power. Sometimes in low range I leave the brake on on purpose to keep the tractor from creeping when hooking up implements or doing precise movements. Therefore I don't think I would want a buzzer because it would just be annoying.

 

[ericm979]

The brake light is actuated by a mechanical switch. If it doesn't come on when you have the parking brake latched on, you should be able to adjust it.

And yea I have missed the brake light and left the brakes on a couple times.

 

[Number15]

I just let my nephew drive my tractor for a bit and after awhile realized he left the parking brake on. brand new tractor but i doubt it did to much damage. My fault for not checking I guess.

 

[5030]

Th primary reason why both my Kubota's are hydraulic shuttle tractors. There is no dry clutch in the bellhousing to eventually wear out and require a split to replace. All that is inside the bell housing is a damper plate do mitigate shock load when going from forward to reverse.

The main clutch as well as the PTO clutch are inside the gearcase and in a constant oil bath and wear is very minimal. 6000 hours on one of them with no engagement adjustment at all.

Would never have a dry clutch tractor. They all eventually wear out and require an expensive replacement. I'd have a hydrostat but my horsepower requirements are such that a hydrostat isn't doable.

 

[oosik]

I learned with my first tractor. I DO NOT use the parking brake on the M6040. Rotate and plant the grapple - drop the rear blade. It's not going to move now.

 

[ptsg]

Th primary reason why both my Kubota's are hydraulic shuttle tractors. There is no dry clutch in the bellhousing to eventually wear out and require a split to replace. All that is inside the bell housing is a damper plate do mitigate shock load when going from forward to reverse.

The main clutch as well as the PTO clutch are inside the gearcase and in a constant oil bath and wear is very minimal. 6000 hours on one of them with no engagement adjustment at all.

Would never have a dry clutch tractor. They all eventually wear out and require an expensive replacement. I'd have a hydrostat but my horsepower requirements are such that a hydrostat isn't doable.

I thought we were discussing brakes here?

Anyway, no need to be so paranoid about a dry clutch. It's not that big of a deal to handle a dry clutch and when used properly, will last easily 4000 to 5000 hours, if not more.

Wet clutches will need to be replaced eventually and the way the go out, usually takes the hub and basket with it as well, along with seals and bearings since you're already there. I would say that the cost of a single wet clutch repair (F and R packs) is enough to cover at least 3 to 4 dry clutches, if not more.

Yes, wet clutches are easy to use, however, we don't mind a dry clutch here. We're not afraid that our left leg is going to fall after using a clutch pedal for 10 or 12 hours a day.

 

[5030]

Key words are proper use. Wet brakes and wet clutch assemblies share the same fluid.

I'm not at all paranoid, in fact my daily driver has a dry clutch and so did the previous one and it was never replaced (175K miles). I do a ton of directional changes with both my tractors so I prefer a wet clutch pack. So long as the clamping pressure is set right and the modulating valves are working correctly, there is actually very little slippage.

Are dry braked tractors even produced today? I don't know but I'm sure you do in as much as you seem to be the expert.