Hi All, New to Forum.........Been having hydraulic lift problems on '83 Ford 1910 4x4 Tractor and wondering if anyone knew of sure way to test Hydraulic pump and pressures. Don't know what else to check. Lift arms will go up if no implements are connected and then only at about 1500rpm. I can hold lift arms down with body weight as position control is raised. Replaced piston ring seal, all o-rings, cleaned relief valve, poppet valve,safety valve, etc.......Changed fluid, filter.........I'm guessing hydraulic pump next???????????? any help would be appreciated !!!
How do you test Hydraulic pump???? Ford 1910
wdchyd
Elite Member
Kubota Flow/Load Meter Test - Tractor Videos - Kubota, John Deere, New Holland and More
Best way is to test flow directly at the output of the pump with a flow meter/test guage w/load valve........
It'll show in real time what flow/pressure is at different rpm's and allow you to induce a simulated load, you'll be able to at least rule out pump troubles PDQ.....if the pumps good then work downstream......
Do not take pump apart to look for wear unless you've tested it first and it failed......some guys take a good pump apart and add to the problems.....some guys take a bad pump apart and think it looks good......Don't go there.....
Best way is to test flow directly at the output of the pump with a flow meter/test guage w/load valve........
It'll show in real time what flow/pressure is at different rpm's and allow you to induce a simulated load, you'll be able to at least rule out pump troubles PDQ.....if the pumps good then work downstream......
Do not take pump apart to look for wear unless you've tested it first and it failed......some guys take a good pump apart and add to the problems.....some guys take a bad pump apart and think it looks good......Don't go there.....
wdchyd
Elite Member
Best to use a relief valve instead of on/off valve in case of "Deadheading"....there is a way to use a 5 gal bucket marked off in gals.....testing with a stopwatch to calculate GPM's at different pressures....
Be carefull and use someone else for safety to man the key switch......
Be carefull and use someone else for safety to man the key switch......
wdchyd
Elite Member
Yep, that's what it is......
The Ford 1910 has a combination pressure relief valve/ diverter valve for aux equipment manifold midway downstream from pump. The only other thing between this and the pump is a power steering manifold block, I should be able to tie into the aux, connection there to test pressure and flow by diverting the hydraulics to the aux port. I'm thinking that the pressure relief valve should still be in line with this. I'm thinking I have a presure problem for the weak lift of the 3 point hitch arms. It shouldn't take that much flow to push the piston for the lift arms. I've changed all th orings and piston seal for the lift arms, don't seem to be getting enough pressure to lift anything say over 200lbs. Book says lift arms should be able to lift 3000lbs +. What do you think??
wdchyd
Elite Member
as long as the flow goes right to the flow/meter you'll be able to properly test the pump......to test pump only you need only to direct flow back to tank.....
putting the flow/meter inline the existing path will allow you to test downstream components while running 3ph or others.....
putting the flow/meter inline the existing path will allow you to test downstream components while running 3ph or others.....
Thanks for the info, I'll see what I came come up with here in the next few days. I'll see about getting a pressure guage at least and see if I can guesstimate flow per bucket and stopwatch..........Anyway to check if I'm getting flow&. pressure at the lift? It will lift the arms with no load. I even took the position control rod off the arms that works the internal control valves and that didn't help. I was thinking that the rod was maladjusted causing the fluid to dump back into the sump before the arms lifted to full height, but that wasn't the case. Even with no load on the arms when they did raise to full height with the control rod off, it should have built up pressure to operate the relief valve but that didn't happen neither. That's why I'm assuming the pump output.
tj1954
New member
sounds like you have a pump problem. The 1910 i believe is made in Japan.i worked on a ford 1920 , it had the same problem and the pump was bad. dont buy from ford i know a guy who can do better on prices
tj1954
New member
There should be a port somewhere that allows you to hook a test gauge, you may have to rig a connector.
Pops,
I too have a 1910. When I bought it I was told the hydraulics didnt work...and they didnt. I learned how this tractor worked and then resolved it. All I needed was a new filter and fluid. I know you changed the fluid already. Have you checked the intake screen on the suction side at the transmisson. If you have no lift think like this.
1 No pressure out due to loss of pressure along the way by either open diverter, or leak etc.
2 If your output was plugged somewhere the plug would have to withstand 3200 psi. Not a likely cause. Plus you would hear the engine loading down at a low rpm while the full power of the pump bled off thru the overpressure relief valve.
3. Most likely cause is that the suction is blocked and your pump is starved.
Flowmeter will tell this if the flow is low. But you can just open the line and check the intake screen on the tube. Mine was missing unless it wasnt in the tube but instead the transmission and I didnt stick my finger into the transmission hole. This screen is your highest probability. Or you can be sucking air due to a leak in the suction side of the line. Same symptom....no pressure. Last you can have water in the system. When you changed your fluid did you open all 3 drain plugs? 1 on rear differential, 1 on transmission, 1 on front wheel drive take off where the shaft hooks to transmission. These are the lowest points and all 3 will hold water. I failed to do this the first go round then figured it out later when foaming continued. Is your oil getting white and foamy or just lightly white and not too bubbly foamy on the dipstick?
Now for the goodies. I have a complete service manual and operators manual. I can copy you the diagrams, trouble shooting tests and pressure test points and power steering pressure relief valve setting procedure. Also the info on the operation of the hydro valve for the lift.
Let me know and we can get in touch on the phone or something. If you need a cheap pressure guage that can go to 5000 psi I bought 2 at Harbor Freight for $12.00 each. They are even fluid filled for dampening. You could get one and use it to see the actual output and even leave it in at all times if you wanted.
Let me know.....
Vic S.
I too have a 1910. When I bought it I was told the hydraulics didnt work...and they didnt. I learned how this tractor worked and then resolved it. All I needed was a new filter and fluid. I know you changed the fluid already. Have you checked the intake screen on the suction side at the transmisson. If you have no lift think like this.
1 No pressure out due to loss of pressure along the way by either open diverter, or leak etc.
2 If your output was plugged somewhere the plug would have to withstand 3200 psi. Not a likely cause. Plus you would hear the engine loading down at a low rpm while the full power of the pump bled off thru the overpressure relief valve.
3. Most likely cause is that the suction is blocked and your pump is starved.
Flowmeter will tell this if the flow is low. But you can just open the line and check the intake screen on the tube. Mine was missing unless it wasnt in the tube but instead the transmission and I didnt stick my finger into the transmission hole. This screen is your highest probability. Or you can be sucking air due to a leak in the suction side of the line. Same symptom....no pressure. Last you can have water in the system. When you changed your fluid did you open all 3 drain plugs? 1 on rear differential, 1 on transmission, 1 on front wheel drive take off where the shaft hooks to transmission. These are the lowest points and all 3 will hold water. I failed to do this the first go round then figured it out later when foaming continued. Is your oil getting white and foamy or just lightly white and not too bubbly foamy on the dipstick?
Now for the goodies. I have a complete service manual and operators manual. I can copy you the diagrams, trouble shooting tests and pressure test points and power steering pressure relief valve setting procedure. Also the info on the operation of the hydro valve for the lift.
Let me know and we can get in touch on the phone or something. If you need a cheap pressure guage that can go to 5000 psi I bought 2 at Harbor Freight for $12.00 each. They are even fluid filled for dampening. You could get one and use it to see the actual output and even leave it in at all times if you wanted.
Let me know.....
Vic S.
antiqueron
New member
Where can you buy ahydralic pump for 1910 ford? Someone said that if power steering works it is not the pump. Is that true? thanks Ron
Prague
New member
Hydraulic Bucket problem, The bucket will only move in one direction , the arm lifts fine but the bucket does not operate back and forth. This all started when the oil tank ran dry and I refilled with new oil. I have tried to check the "O" rings on the spool valve with no success in removing it, am I on the right track?
antiqueron
New member
My bucket and box blade will not work at the same time, Low pressure and I dont know how to test. Power steering still works. It there anyone near Sunnyvale Texas that is reasonable to work on these? And where is the best place to buy a new pump if needed ,Thanks,Ron
J_J
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If you only use half lever on each valve, they both will work.
Xfaxman
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Did you cycle the bucket curl valve enough to get any air out of the cylinders?
