How do you get this slipclutch off??

[OrangeinWis]

My 2 cents its a tapered OR straight pin and is removable by taking nut off, installing a few flat washers with their i.d. bigger than the pin itself, reinstall the nut and basically PULL the pin out by jacking it out with the nut. I see these types of pins in blind holes on paper machines for realignment purposes. Usually always fine threaded. my 2 cents

 

[RickB]

My 2 cents its a tapered OR straight pin and is removable by taking nut off, installing a few flat washers with their i.d. bigger than the pin itself, reinstall the nut and basically PULL the pin out by jacking it out with the nut. I see these types of pins in blind holes on paper machines for realignment purposes. Usually always fine threaded. my 2 cents

It's not a blind hole and the pin exits opposite the MERTIC threaded end, not toward it.

 

[Baby Grand]

Gonna take more than "a few light raps". One well placed direct blow is required to unseat the tapered pinch bolt without distorting the bolt or nut.
Not my first rodeo.

You're right if it's a tapered pin - reminds me of trying to get the cotter pin out of the crankset on my old Raleigh bicycle - lots of Liquid Wrench, wailing with a hand sledge, swearing and hoping I didn't damage the bearings in the bottom bracket. Hope for the OP's sake it's just a straight shank bolt!

 

[SPYDERLK]

This is NOT a quick-disconect push pin.
It is a wedge shaped pinch bolt that engages a slot in the shaft. Put the nut back on, flush with the end of the 'pinch bolt'. Using a steel punch of at least 1/2" diameter so as not to deform the bolt or nut, give it a good lick with a 2 lb or larger hammer straight in towards the clutch. This will dislodge the tapered bolt. Pull the bolt back out towards you so the bolt locks slightly and temporarily in the clutch while you remove the nut. Shove the bolt through and out the back side of the clutch. Remove clutch assembly from the shaft.

Good call.
larry

 

[RickB]

Good call.
larry

Thanks. Many here have poor eyesight and worse guesses.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with RickB on this, you will have to hit it with enough force to break it free. Since it spins and is/can be subjected to centripetal(spelling?) forces and is not coming off with the flat washers and puller arrangement.

I would definately get the shaft rotated to a spot where you can get to it with a punch, heavy hammer and use a straight on blow.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I loosened the nut thinking that it would let the yoke slide off, but then realized it's not "split" so it can clamp down on the PTO shaft. Duhhhh. Does that "threaded pin" sit in a groove on the PTO shaft? If so, then that pin has to be pushed or pressed out from the other side, right? There is no nut on the other end of it, it just looks like its flush (pressed) into the clutch housing. I couldn't rotate the shaft to take a pic of the other end because the blades are sitting on the ground (rototiller not hooked up to the tractor). Thanks....




View attachment 306141

I am just curious as to why you want to remove the slip clutch. It looks like it is in good shape.

 

[kebo]

I am just curious as to why you want to remove the slip clutch. It looks like it is in good shape.

Sorry for taking so long to reply, kind of dropped this for a week or so.

Long story, but last year I bought a used KK II rototiller. The previous owner had cut the pto shaft pretty short, for the 8N he was using it on. Young kid, I don't think he really knew what he was doing.

Well, on my tractor, with the PEC system and a 4" PTO extender, the two sections of the PTO shaft would separate. So, there were a few options, and the easiest seemed to be to replace the PTO shaft. That was $219 new, you have to buy the whole thing, including the slipclutch, which as you judged was in good shape. Heck, it's like almost new, been used very little because the blades on the tiller still have yellow paint on them.

So, just recently I found a complete, BRAND NEW heavy duty short PTO shaft made for tillers, spreaders, and other PTO attachments that use a shorter PTO shaft. The only problem is this one is made to work with a shear bolt on the implement end, instead of the clutch. So, it's a "smooth bore", whereas the gear box on the tiller has 6 splines.

My plan is to see if I can remove the yoke end on the new shaft that uses the shear bolt, and replace with the yoke end (on the old, short shaft) that has the slip clutch. It *looks* like they will interchange. I got the new shaft for $50, so if this works it will be a sweet deal and get my rototiller going just in time for spring tilling.

If this doesn't don't work, then I am shafted!! I will have a brand new, uncut, heavy duty PTO shaft that uses a shear bolt for sale, a used PTO shaft with slip clutch that is cut pretty short for sale, and guess I will be looking to buy a brand new PTO shaft from TSC for about $219. The proof is in the pudding though, and won't really know if it'll work until I get the u-joints out and try and swap ends and see if they will match up. I will try that later this week.

Btw, I got the slip clutch off today. I wound up having to hook the tiller up so I could lift it, and then rotate the shaft to get a good angle and drive it out with the punch & hammer. The tapered bolt came out with a few light taps with a punch and hammer. See my pictures I added. Will let you know if the two yokes will interchange or not. Cross your fingers, and thanks for the help fellows!!!


Here is the tapered bolt:




Here is the hole it came out of:

 

[moship]

Kebo,

In the event your new PTO doesn't work, I believe it is possible to buy new longer replacement shafts to make your existing PTO longer. This place has a good bit of information that might help if you choose this route.

PTO Shaft Parts | PTO Shafts | Drivelines | PaulB