How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild?

   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #1  

JennWho

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Helping a neighbor. She has an old Kubota B6100 tractor, a little one. The hydraulic pump for the loader is a separate unit attached to the front of the engine. I attached a pressure gauge to the line and when the lift was activated it indicated 2000 psi but both the lift function and the dump function are very slow.

Could it be that the pump has pressure but not volume?
How to test for volume?
Thoughts please.

Thank you
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #2  
From what I looked up on line pressure sounds right, volume is 3 g.p.m. (2.96 by specs). I'm thinking with a clean 5 gallon bucket you could put hydraulic line in, run it a minute (timed) then see. Pour fluid back in.
I'm guessing temp would affect speed?
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #3  
It is possibly an aftermarket loader and pump.
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #4  
Sounds to me like the pump is good. You just need to figure out where the suction side hydraulic filter(s) are and deal with them. Bet you they are old and clogged. Some of those older Kubotas had two: a cleanable wire mesh suction filter and a spin-on filter.
See if you can find an owners manual and see what it says about the hydraulic filters.
BTW, very nice little tractor.
rScotty
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #5  
Helping a neighbor. She has an old Kubota B6100 tractor, a little one. The hydraulic pump for the loader is a separate unit attached to the front of the engine. I attached a pressure gauge to the line and when the lift was activated it indicated 2000 psi but both the lift function and the dump function are very slow.

Could it be that the pump has pressure but not volume?
How to test for volume?
Thoughts please.

Thank you
Just going off of your post
but,

If the gauge is reading 2000psi and that is while actuating the curl or lift while they move
and are slow. Versus against a stop/ cylinder piston at end of travel

I would suspect some type of restriction on the output side. Is there a "quick connect" on the pumps discharge going to the FEL block?
Maybe needs re seating.
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thank you all for your help.

- When I tested the pressure I just remove the quick-connect fitting and plugged the gauge into that.
- I will make a tee fitting and look at the pressure as the loader is operating.
- I looked for filters originally but the oil reservoir is simply a 3"x3"x ~30" tube that is the rear vertical frame
member of the loader. Line out the bottom to the pump, line in towards the top of the tube for the return.

Also, may have a lot of seals blown, giving a lot of bypass?
 
   / How do I determine if hydraulic pump need to be rebuild? #7  
OK. That type of oil reservoir tells us something. If it is what I think it is, that Kubota is using a popular aftermarket way to run a loader on some very small compact tractors of the 1970s and 80s.

I had the same oil in the loader frame setup on our 16 hp Yanmar. It was considered to be a lot better than using the tractors internal 3pt hydaulics.

On those systems there was an add-on hydraulic pump just for the loader. The add-on pump was either driven off the front of the engine on a flex coupling to the front engine pulley..... or off the PTO in the rear.
The ones on the front were a very universal type of pump - in fact the whole system used simple universal industrial parts. So if it has gone bad it is very easy to replace from one of the online suppliers of such pumps like surpluscenter.com

Most of those systems with the oil in the loader upright did not have a filter at all. Just a screen at the bottom. You basically change the oil by disconnecting the suction hose at the bottom on the oil reservoir. Changing it and checking the hoses wouldn't hurt. The oil itself is any light weight trans/hydraulic oil. John Deere HyGard low viscosity (winter) is what many use.

Yes, the gauge on the T fitting will tell you a lot. Remember that a hydraulic system will only develop pressure in response and in proportion to resistance. For example if you are not lifting anything, expect that there will be flow but not much pressure.
If the system only needs to develop 800 psi to lift whatever is in the bucket then that is all it will do. I rarely see over 1200 psi on mine. If stalled, it will go to max pressure setting. That is adjustable via the relief valve and most are in the 1800 to 2800 psi range.

Sure, it could have pressure and not volume if there was some restriction on motion or fluid blockage. Easy way to test that is just put light motor oil in the upright and keep pouring it in while you run whatever hose you suspect into a 5 gallon bucket. Volume & velocity is fairly low at 3 gpm. Do at idle & you'll know in 15 to 30 seconds. Try not to run it dry. First try would be with the hose that connects the output of the pump to the input (IN) port on the control valve.

That front mounted pump system and oil in the upright was actually a pretty nice system.
Luck,
rScotty
 
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