MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 60,469
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
How can I separate these two parts?
- Thread starter g8erh8er
- Start date
jaydee325
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2013
- Messages
- 1,204
- Location
- Casco, Mi
- Tractor
- John Deere X584 Garden Tractor & LS R3039H
I would not try and pull the shaft out of the housing until I fully understood how the shaft attaches to the lever or eccentric inside. The shaft shown in the parts schematic appears to have a grove in the housing end which could have a snap ring securing it. Look at the schematic for the parts inside the housing to see what is shown there. A service manual is a must in this situation IMHO!
If you do get the housing off, how are you going to capture the spring and detent ball? Best case they could just fall out on the floor, worst case they could fly into the housing. Now you're going fishing in the gear case for loose parts!
To get the housing loose, I'd try a stiff putty knife as wide as will fit. I'd grind the putty knife to a sharp edge with a fairly long angle to improve your chance for penetration. If the parts are steel, there should be minimal if no damage. If either part is aluminum, be very carfull!
If you do get the housing off, how are you going to capture the spring and detent ball? Best case they could just fall out on the floor, worst case they could fly into the housing. Now you're going fishing in the gear case for loose parts!
To get the housing loose, I'd try a stiff putty knife as wide as will fit. I'd grind the putty knife to a sharp edge with a fairly long angle to improve your chance for penetration. If the parts are steel, there should be minimal if no damage. If either part is aluminum, be very carfull!
WranglerX
Elite Member
Think I would try a razor blade first, maybe sharpened putty knife if razor blade does not work, try to get it perfectly between to flange and base and try tapping it in with light hammer blows.....
When its loose and off, you might want to make slight bevel on outer side of flange, so if in future you have to go in again (hopefully not) there is a slight crevasse to help locate tool....
Dale
When its loose and off, you might want to make slight bevel on outer side of flange, so if in future you have to go in again (hopefully not) there is a slight crevasse to help locate tool....
Dale
Last edited:
Success. I went with a square razor blade and slowly tapped it into the bottom edge. After a few good taps, and one broken blade, it finally gave way. The shaft and housing come out as one piece, as shown in the pics below. Last pic shows the o-ring I'm replacing.
Thx for all the suggestions everyone!
Thx for all the suggestions everyone!
skipmarcy
Veteran Member
Looks exactly like the 4x4 shift fork on my Mahindra 4110 I've replaced a couple of times over the years. That's why you GENTLY shift in & out of 4wd and go between forward & reverse to shift it. The tip of that fork rests in a groove on a gear that slides on a splined shaft to engage/disengage 4wd - no synchronizers or anything.
Zebrafive
Super Member
It looks like the parts drawing has the ball and spring in the wrong order. I had wondered how that would work.
rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 8,373
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Once the gasket maker seals the surfaces you are stuck. That's as good a reason as I know not to assemble with gasket maker until it is partly cured. Also, if using gasket maker put it on one surface only, the other surface gets a light coating of grease. Don't assemble until the gasket maker has skinned over - usually a hour or so will do that.
As for getting it apart when someone has done it the wrong way, I have been a mechanic for 60years and still don't have that answer. The good news is that you are dealing with a steel casting instead of an aluminum cover... so you will probably eventually get it apart.
I have an old (from my dad) putty knife with a 3 1/2" long by 1" wide flexible blade that comes to a sharp edge. A favorite tool. Very high quality hardened steel - but flexible and not even as thick as a razor blade. With a rawhide mallet, I can usually find a way to drive that blade between two cases. Once that happens you know you've won. Yes, there is always some damage, but the next gasket will fix that.
When you replace the O ring, be aware that only a few metric sizes actually cross over to our inch system. Best to stick with OEM. And that way you don't have to worry about fluid compatabiilty either. When you assemble the O ring, use whatever lube that it will be sealing with against. O ring materials are special, and some are peculiarly sensitive to certain greases and lubes.
good luck, go slow, be a craftsman....
rScotty
As for getting it apart when someone has done it the wrong way, I have been a mechanic for 60years and still don't have that answer. The good news is that you are dealing with a steel casting instead of an aluminum cover... so you will probably eventually get it apart.
I have an old (from my dad) putty knife with a 3 1/2" long by 1" wide flexible blade that comes to a sharp edge. A favorite tool. Very high quality hardened steel - but flexible and not even as thick as a razor blade. With a rawhide mallet, I can usually find a way to drive that blade between two cases. Once that happens you know you've won. Yes, there is always some damage, but the next gasket will fix that.
When you replace the O ring, be aware that only a few metric sizes actually cross over to our inch system. Best to stick with OEM. And that way you don't have to worry about fluid compatabiilty either. When you assemble the O ring, use whatever lube that it will be sealing with against. O ring materials are special, and some are peculiarly sensitive to certain greases and lubes.
good luck, go slow, be a craftsman....
rScotty
Tony H
Platinum Member
Can you double nut the other two studs to take them out? Then do some more tapping. Honestly, I had a similar issue. Like you I was in fear of using a screwdriver to hit between the surfaces. I surrendered, and brought it to a dealer to ask what they do. They took it in the back, put a chisel on and whacked it. It popped quickly and only made a mark at the very end... The new gasket had plenty of surface to cover.
Xfaxman
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2013
- Messages
- 12,938
- Location
- Guthrie, OK
- Tractor
- Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
It is apart.
Read post #14.
Read post #14.
BillKrohmer
New member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Messages
- 2
- Tractor
- Husqvarna YTH2246
What is this off of? And what is the part called? tia.