How big of a trailer do I need?

[mdbarb]

I will be hauling a Kubota B21 tractor a few times a year, just a few miles.
With loader, bachoe and loaded tires it weighs 4,400 pounds.
I have an opportunity to get a slightly used BigTex 60CH car hauler: GVWR=6,000#, two 3500# Dexter axles w/ electric brakes on one axle.
The local dealer says no way can this trailer work. I NEED a 10,000 # gvwr, C channel cross members instead of 2" angles, jackstands at the rear, etc etc at about DOUBLE the price.
I've rented a trailer locally that wasn't even as heavy duty as the big tex and it seemed ok, they use it all the time.
So what is the smallest I can safely use.
Sure, bigger would be better but I have a feeling its not necessary and don't know who to believe.

 

[Jag]

Mr. Barb, I use a 18 foot with two Dexter 3500# axles, single brake. It does great with my L tractor at 5600# loaded out. Your GVWR should normally be 7000#. Most 16 foot dual axle trailers should weigh 900-1200#. This type of trailer is the one you see under most all compact tractors, up to mid-size farm tracrtors... Most anyone who does brush cutting or light loader work uses it.

 

[mdbarb]

I think the dealer was emphasizing that the trailer was a car hauler some the frame was suitable for a car which spreads 2 or 3 thousand pounds over a large space so the frame is lighter. While a tractor has 4 or 5 thousand pounds more pinpointed over the rear wheels thus the need for stiffer framework. The BigTex 60CH has 3"x5"x1/4 "Angle frame and 2"x3"x3/16" crossmembers.
I'd like to pick up this used trailer, it has a built in toolbox, electric winch etc and I don't care much for the trailer dealer but more importantly I need a trailer that is adequate.
I'm torn.
Anyone out there with first hand experience with this type of weight on this type of trailer?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

As a semi driver (pulling triple trailers), I'm more concerned about the atitude of the DRIVER than the size of trailer being towed. I rather see a securely attached tractor on a minimum-sized trailer (tractor/trailer right at gross weight) driven by a cautious owner at reasonable speeds than a poorly attached(or UNATTACHED) tractor on a huge multiaxle trailer driven by a maniac tailgating at 75 miles per hour.

It is not my intention to depress anyone here but inattention to safety kills. Just a year or so ago a guy driving a 1-ton 4WD Dodge dually pulling a huge 10,000+ lbs multi-axle trailer WAS tailgating a semi at 75 and rear-ended it when the trucker slowed to avoid an earlier accident. While the driver of the Dodge survived the initial rear-ender, the compact tractor was not secured to the his trailer and entered the back of his Dodge cab, killing him.

(PS: The jack stand at the rear of the trailer is important if you have a light tow vehicle. Without something under the end, one could lift the rear of the tow vehicle rendering the parking brake useless, especially if on an incline -- which one shouldn't do anyway.)

 

[gvw]

I usually follow that good ol saying "When in doubt - go Stout". Hasn't failed me yet - if you are concerned then probably should go up in GVW - you can always carry more stuff with the heavier unit - only as long as you have the heavier axles and not vice versa if that makes sense. I actully carry my 7000 lb tractor on 20,000 GVW trailer - overkill yes - but it sure works and I can use the trailer for most anything else that I want to haul - hay - backhoe etc.

 

[Jag]

The smaller trailer will work great for what you need. Unless you plan to carry more than 6000# +, tractor, attachments and material.....

 

[cowboydoc]

I agree with gvw and your dealer, go bigger! Although my trailer has the 7000 lb. axles it's only rated to haul 5000 pounds. I've replaced the bearings twice in my trailer now from hauling my skidsteer long distances which is only 4600 lbs. If I had it to do over I'd get the 10,000 lb. trailer no doubt in my mind. You'll only be sorry if you go smaller but you won't be sorry if you go bigger.

 

[Jag]

CBD, the more I hear the more I just do not understand... Two 7000# axles giving problems with a 4600# load. Yes there is a problem. It should not matter what the trailer (steel above the axle) is rated. The axle should easily carry it's rated load... And Mr Barb said he is not going far or very often..... I have never seen a trailer wear out with this kind of load for years and years of use.. MHO

 

[mdbarb]

I know bigger will never be a problem but has anyone here experienced any failures in a 6000# gvwr car hauler with 4,000+ of tractor?

 

[GrantMO]

mdbarb,

I just bought an 18 foot utility trailer similar to Richard's. I didn't pay attention to the axle rating vs. GVW rating at the time. Mine is also 7000#axles and 5000# GVW of which 1600# is trailer weight. As it is now I don't haul that much weight and my tow vehicle can only pull 5000# anyway. Mine was $1525 and for another thousand or so you could get 10000#. I'd say get the bigger stronger trailer. You can always pull lighter loads on a heavier duty trailer but not vice versa.

 

[cowboydoc]

Jag,
Even though they are rated at 7000 lbs. you can't carry that much weight on them! They are rated at 5000 lbs. of weight. What you forget is that you have to figure in the weight of the trailer as well. When you figure the weight of the trailer plus the weight of the load you are carrying you have to be under the 7000 lbs. That is why there is a 5000 lb. load limit on them. I guarantee you you take that trailer out on the road for any length of time and you will burn up the bearings. I have seen it happen time and time again. The trailer I have is a Maclander which is the cadillac of trailers. I called them on this and they said absolutely you should not carry near the maximum load for any period of distance is you want to save your bearings.

 

[cowboydoc]

I guess my point is that no with this type of use and only a few miles you will probably be fine. But what happens when you want to go more than a few miles or your buddy says how about we go pick up this other tractor and it weighs 7000 lbs. With the 6000# trailer you're going to have problems. With the 10k trailer you will likely never have a problem. For the little extra that it is to go up in trailers, from my experience, it's not worth it not to have the trailer you need when you need it.

 

[hayden]

It's really a pretty simple formula. Trailer weight + payload weight <= rated GVW. This must be true to meet rated specs and to be legal. The axle ratings can be very misleading because they can be under a trailer frame with a lesser rating, not have brakes sufficient to achieve full rating, and not have tires sufficient to achieve full rating.

In you case, you have a trailer rates at 6000lbs GVW. That max gross weight including the payload AND the weight of the trailer. Your payload is 4400lbs, so that leaves 1600lbs max for the trailer weight itself.

Call Big Tex and ask them what the weight of that trailer is. Subtract it from the rated GVW abd you have the max payload. My guess is that you'll find you are right at the line, but probably OK.

Unfortunately, almost nobody published the weight of their trailers so knowbody knows what their carrying capacity is. I think this is the source of most confusion. I've been shocked at how many people are totally puzzled when I try to find out what the weight is, and how many manufacturers actually don't know.

The extend to which you chose to overload the trailer, for whatever reason, well, that's your call.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Amen, expecting delivery of 11000-12000 lb Gross weight trailer later this week, I hope. I chose the HD model with 6 in. chanel frames, tandem axles with 4 wheel electric brakes. Went for tread plate deck instead of wood planks. Upgraded to 16 inch rims with load range "E" tires instead of 15 inch with lighter duty tires. Requested a foot longer tongue to allow carying loader bucket on tongue without hitting tailgate. Upgraded crank up tongue jack to 7000 lb. Trailer deck is 18 ft long. Comes with two ramps that store under trailer. Has stake pockets for unlimited variations on what sort of sides, tops, etc you could interchange. Expect it will haul the new L4610 with brush hog and loader mounted or "presto change o" haul livestock, or dirt, or... Not many people complain because their trailer is too stout or too safe with a heavy load. With all the upgrades I paid about $500 extra. Figure it is a wise investment in safety, longivity, and capability.

 

[Jag]

Patrick, all those upgrades for $500, that was a good buy and money well spent... Wish I had that option when I got mine.

 

[Jag]

Sorry CBD, I read "7000# axles" and was thinking a 14000# GVW. Did not see a problem with under 5000# load and say 1500# trailer... In my post earlier I had included the typical trailer weight of a light 16' tandum..

 

[Jag]

Hayden, good call all the way around... ""The extend to which you chose to overload the trailer, for whatever reason, well, that's your call.""

 

[Scaper]

Hello fellow equipment haulers. I was in a bad accident on 4-28-01 and I was pulling a TC33D with rear Woods RM660, two comercial walk behinds on the trailer and a rider in the bed of my F450 SD flat bed. My trailer was a Deande 18' HD 7000 pound capacity skid steer trailer daul brakes both axles. Each axle was rated at 3500lbs. the trailer weighed 2100lbs. so I had 4900lbs. left to haul equipment. Well lets see TC33D 2540lbs. with fuel, woods mower 550lbs. two walk behinds 468lbs. each. So, lets see I had a total of 4026lbs. on the bed. Well my trailer was a 3/16th 2x6 box tubing frame with flat plate 1/8 " thick welded on the inside of the rails and tongue for extra strength. This was a trailer that I bought right from the manufacturer in Trenton N.J. . Well I'll say this after having been in an accident. I sure was glad I got the HD trailer when I bought it. The man was 82 yrs. old and turned right in front of me ( Total weight of truck , equipment and trailer was almost 8 tons.) and I ripped off the front end of the old mans pickup truck with my trailer. While doing so off came both axles and tires from the rims of the trailer. To my amazement when I got the rig to a halt, my tractor and walk behinds hadn't moved an inch. Thank God for HD straps and binders. My point is this , If the trailer had been a light weight angle iron trailer I may now have been out of business due to destroyed equipment. But my units are safe due to a higher line of trailer when I went looking to purchase one in the first place. New trailer is a 20 foot deck over with two 6000 lb dexter axles and a rating of 7000lbs. being able to be carried on the deck. Buy more and better then you think you will ever need. This way if you do have the misfortune of ever being in a jam you may be as lucky as I was that I owned a great trailer not a good enough one. Go for the gold your equipment is worth it!!!!!!! I paid $3500 for the new trailer 20' by 8' deck over with 4 ' beaver tail and two 4500 lb gates, with jack stands to load while unhooked. Good luck,
Scaper

 

[RobS]

mdbarb, I recently got an 18' car hauler with two 3500 pound axles, brakes on one. I use it for hauling the tractor and trimmings three miles to our property. I would have loved a heavier trailer but I only had the money for this one. So far, it's been great. Loads well, secures well (rub rail all the way around the stake pockets) and pulls well. I figure if I ever find the money (after a backhoe /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ), I can trade or sell this one. They seem to hold value reasonably well /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Jag]

Rob, another good point that nobody else pointed out, with the used trailer you should alway be able to get your money out if you decide to trade up...