Homemade logsplitter design question

/ Homemade logsplitter design question #1  

Jim_in_Omaha

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2003
Messages
297
Location
Omaha area
Tractor
LK3054
Which way is better:
Push the log into the wedge or push the wedge into the log with the cylinder? I've seen both. Most of the log splitters at the stores push the wedge into the log with the cylinder.

thx
Jim
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #2  
iv'e had both and prefer the log being pushed into the wedge.
additionally i use a four wheeler to move my splitter around, ,so i also want the hitch to be located opposite of the wedge.

i leave the four wheeler connected while splitting
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #3  
Odd question but may be relevant. What kind of wood are you splitting?

The reason I ask is if you're splitting stuff that splits easy, either way works fine.

For the harder stuff to split (grainy or whatever) where you need to split most of the way through, I prefer the log being pushed into and through the wedge. You can grab 1/2 of the log (behind the wedge) after it's past the wedge and try to pry it open. It can be done with the wedge into log version but it's normally harder to reach and pull on the log.

Edit - I'm assuming it's a horizontal only splitting system. For vertical operation you'll want the wedge on the piston and push it into the log.
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #4  
I prefer the push into the wedge as you can go down a row dropping on the ground as you move along.
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #5  
From what I've seen, the vertical splitters push the wedge into the wood. You would be tipping the splitter over if you pushed the log down onto a wedge on a vertical splitter, it would hit the ground and push everything up/over until the log actually split.

On a horizontal one, I think they push the log against the wedge so that the split logs don't land on your feet - they land past the end of the machine - in theory...

Doug
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #6  
Pushing the wood into the wedge allows you to add a 4 way splitter. And I was just thinking today about modifying my splitter so I could tow from the opposite end from the wedge.
I just replaced my valve with an autocycle valve. I've split a couple of cords with it and so far I like it.
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #7  
which ever way you do it,make sure the wood falls off behind the machine[opposite the hitch]so you simply move ahead a little,and you dont have to move wood in front of your tires.I built mine wrong the first time ,and had to cut it apart to change this around.you dont always have someone to take it away for you. This said,i would push it into the wedge on the rear of the machine.
ESCAVADER
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #8  
like some said before. the store type are capable of vertical splitting. this is the primary reason for the wedge mounted to the ram..i built two over the last several years and they were both horizontal type with the splitting wedge welded to the frame. with this type splitter you have the option of making a 4-way or 6-way attachment that slides over the wedge. this will split logs into 4 or 6 pieces per one ram cycle. a real time saver..
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #9  
If it's Horizontal only then push the wood into the wedge.
Also excellent advice from above.
Attached are a couple of pictures of my home made splitter if you would like some design ideas. Most all the steel used is 1" thick. The I beam I used is actually 2 I beams from a mobile home trailer tongue welded together side by site to get me the 6" width I wanted. The hydraulic cylinder is 4-1/2" bore x 24" stroke x 1-1/2" rod (25 ton). The valve is from northern tool and is a detent return (auto return). I use the tractor hydraulics to run it with some quick connects. Not shown in the picture because I added later are some log catchers that catch the split wood off the wedge so I don’t have to bend over to pick it up.
 

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/ Homemade logsplitter design question #10  
The wedge is made from 1" x 16" cold rolled steel.
The knife edge was made by cutting two 45* on the band saw.
 

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/ Homemade logsplitter design question #11  
Here is a close up of them push ram plate.
 

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/ Homemade logsplitter design question #12  
Valve mounting to cylinder ends - this was (IMHO) a brilliant idea.
 

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/ Homemade logsplitter design question #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Valve mounting to cylinder ends - this was (IMHO) a brilliant idea. )</font>
Did you buy the valve mounting on the cylinder? Or is this something you bought/made seperately? John
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Did you buy the valve mounting on the cylinder? Or is this something you bought/made seperately? John )</font>

Thank you for asking - the valve mount is home made. It's a piece of angle Iron cut out to fit around the end of the cylinder.
 

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/ Homemade logsplitter design question #15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thank you for asking - the valve mount is home made. It's a piece of angle Iron cut out to fit around the end of the cylinder. )</font>
Well, that's pretty work. I though for sure that was machine made. That's from angle? I never would have guessed it.
John
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #16  
John -
That is the ultimate compliment - thank you.
look closely at the valve mounting bracket - I forgot to mention that I had to add 2 peices of 1/4" x 1-1/2" flat to extend the angle out to the full length of the valve. In a way it was machine made - I had to use the band saw, drill press & the jig saw to cut out the half round to clear the end of the cylinder. The Cylinder was purchased on e-Bay. The real tough part was drilling the 1" hole through 1" steel for the cylinder clevis. And OMG cutting all that 1" on the saw !!!!.
As you can also see I ran out of black paint and red paint. Yellow and Orange paint is all I had left - I used the yellow.
This thing exceeds all my expectations. I have since added another 6" tall blade on top of the one shown. But never took more pictures. Most all the material came from my "scrap" pile - what I like to call my"inventory" Well I thinks thats it for now - don't want to steal this post any more than I already have.
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks for all the input. It helps to know the experiences others have had with this sort of thing.
thx
Jim
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #18  
so i've rented splitters both ways.
the one i liked best pushed the wedge into the log. For easy wood you can push the wedge in until the log snaps, back the wedge out, roll the log that is still sort of connected, then run the ram through it, splitting what is left in halves. In ohter words, you don't have to pick up the halves or catch them as they fell.
Also, the one home made splitter I saw had steel guards so that if you pulled the ram all the way out, the guards would pull the wood off the wedge. Sometimes the wood gets stuck on the wedge which is mostly annoying.
 
/ Homemade logsplitter design question #19  
I found these splitters and thought the company had some really good designs www.timberwolfcorp.com I really liked the Tw-7 model, it splits the log in multiple pieces and leaves the piece to be resplit sitting on top of the wedge for a quick reload.
 

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