Tom,
I looked at Dynamat on Ebay and agree. That looks like it will work. Just select the correct sq. footage, best type and price. I now have several options. I'm going to look at some sound installers in my area to see if they have some remnants left. Thanks all for your help.
I made a cab from 2" pvc conduit.It's lightweight and is easily removed. It has lexan front and rear windows and removable doors with clear vinyl sheeting held in place with velcro. It's nothing fancy but it breaks the cold winds. The cab heater also helps keep it toasty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I like your cab - nice, simple, and light. Is there a windshield wiper on the front? I can't tell for sure. I've heard that Lexan is expensive. What made you choose it over, say, plexiglass?
If you can give any construction details, like how you attached the Lexan and the doors to the PVC frame, that would help a lot. Thanks for your post.
I chose lexan because it won't shatter or break like plexiglass. I picked up a 4x8 sheet for $100.00. I used self tapping sheet metal screws that have a rubber washer attached ,just like you would use on steel roofing to attach the lexan to the pvc.I do have a manual wiper fixed up on it .I used removable pin hinges on the doors so i could take the doors off easy. I'll try to attach some other photos.
Tom
I also used an old bed liner, cut it down,turned it upside down and used it for my roof. I heated up the front edge and bent it down. I'll try and take some other pictures if you need any specific info.
For those that are drilling and attaching for the first time, a few words of caution.
Both products want to be mounted with kinda sloppy oversized holes as the expansion rates or quite differant from metals that you normally will attache to.
If the holes are 'tight fit' you'll have cracks for sure.
I'd suggest drilling pilot holes first for alignment purposes and then enlargen one or even 2 drill sizes bigger on the plexi.
Always use a grommet or rubber washer to attach.
Also both products can shatter easily when drilling.
Keep as far from the edge as practible and use very light pressure. Liquid soap as a lubricant will help as will the 'bullet nosed drill bits'
I learned the hard way installing small aircraft windows!
If you can use it, the automotive double 'U' window channel rubber would be the best route to go (The stuff they use for truck windows and old school bus fixed windows)
Just some incredible workmanship by others building their Cabs on this thread but I like yours due to the simplicity of design & the fact that it should be something I can handle. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Some additional pictures of the following areas would be very much appreciated.
- A close up of the fender area. How did you do the door fit in this area ??
- A close up shot of how you secured the PVC to the TRactor Body.
- An inside rear shot showing how you secured the PVC to the ROPS. (At least thats what I am assuming you did.)
- What type of heater did you use ??
Thanks for the pics so far & nice show of ingenuity on your part !
Here's a photo of the cab mount to the roll bar. I drilled a hole through the roll bar and the cab and placed a rubber block between the rollbar and the cab and used a lockwasher and wingnut to hold it in place.I picked up a coil spring rubber block at the auto store.
Here's a photo of the heater i use in the cab. A friend of mine picked it up on e-bay for $30.00. It's connected into the tractors cooling system.It has 2 fans inside, one blows up through the unit and the other one blows down through the unit. You can also see how the PVC goes around the fender.The part that actually goes over the fender i heated with a heat gun and formed it to fit.The cab is held in place with two bolts into the rollbar and two bolts in through the floorboards. I use chunks of sofa cushion foam to fill in some of the gaps to keep out the air. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The door was a little tuff to do. I started by mounting the hinges on the door frame and statred building from that. Most of the door frame was made by heating the PVC with a heat gun and setting it in place until it cooled then did a little more and a little more. When the frame was finished i placed velcro strips all the way around the edge and covered it with crystal clear plastic. It works nice. I can take off the doors when it's nice out . I also placed two hooks on the cab roof to lift off the cab .
I built my own temporary cab(pics attached) from angle iron and plexi from Home Depot. It has a 3/4" plywood top. Its not air tight but it keeps the wind off me when out moving or blowing snow. Cost about $400 to build. Northern sells a cab heater that hose connects to the engine for about $150. though I dont have one yet.
Great idea on the PVC pipe cab. I will have to think hard about building one. I bought a Heater House Windbreaker from TSC made by FEMCO, but it got too cold to install! It was -20 and when it warmed up I decided I could get by without.
I don't want a cab in the summer as I need to get under trees and in buildings. I have been thinking about a Curtis Soft Cab, but I don't know how long it takes to remove and install, plus the cost.
Also I built a rear scattershield out of Lexon that I zip tie to the ROPS. It really helped keep snow off me while using the snowblower.
Your homemade PVC cab is smart. I like everything about it. One small change for anyone following this PVC cab thread.....you should not drill your ROPs or alter it in any way. You can use tie straps or hose clamps.
I have to say that the simple PVC method is the neatest I have ever seen even though the others I have seen are more substantial and technically more detailed.