Homemade Cab?

[PILOON]

This shows a detail of corner where front window meets the roofline.
You will note that the galv sheet stock is merely attached with sheetmetal screws.
Also note the rain drip channels that I formed over the door.

Also note that I made the roof overhang the windshield to prevent water from dripping down over the window area.
This proved so effective that I rarely use the wiper that is installed.

This cab is now over 7 yrs old and has proven very effective.

 

[PILOON]

This photo shows my heater installation.

I used a rear 'under the seat' heater from the same school bus, but modified by installing a computer type 12v 'muffin' fan as they are 1.- more efficient, 1.-more compact.

The heater core is about 6" X6" and I believe made by Carter.

Top mounting proved to be the best location (by trial and error) and since it blows downwards it keeps feet warm!

I can operate at -20 c. very comfortably (coat open, no hat no gloves and toasty feet!)

 

[PILOON]

This is a tad unrelated, but here I show how I used an electric wheelchair drive motor to rotate my blower snow shute.

It has proven rugged enough to actually free itself from accumulated ice buildup in the chain mechanism.

This has been used for 2 years so far without any problem.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Where did you find the wheel chair motor?

 

[Scozz]

That wheelchair motor was an awesome idea, very clever. Hope no one was using the chair you got it from! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[PILOON]

We have a 'flea market' near me and there is a vendor that has access to trade in wheelchairs that he parts out.

Lots of folks use the motors to drive tarp rolling mechanisms on dump trucks as well.

The motors are 24v. but work great on 12v. with lots of torque.

The $39. import winches often sold on EBay would probably convert easily for this application as well.
They also make great winches due to low speed and high torque.

They sell for $50.(cdn) making the install cheaper than hydraulics and in my opinion far better as it is much easier to run a bit af wire than lengths of hose and a valve.

Water is the enemy so you'd note in photo that I had slipped a piece of 4" drain pipe over the motor body to act as a 'rain cover' which is held in place with a large tyewrap.
Seems to do the trick.

I would believe windshield wiper motors might also do the trick as they are quite slow with lots of torque.

 

[PineRidge]

Our investment was a hydraulic motor we picked up at eBay for $16.05 plus two $13.95 each flow restrictors from Surplus center to slow the motor down and 2 short hydraulic hoses to make the connection.

With hydraulics you need not worry about the fact that water and electricity don't mix well.

I do think that most anyone can make the conversion using either electric or hydraulic components if they search a bit on the Internet and shop wisely.

 

[TMcD_in_MI]

PILOON,

Thanks for all the pictures showing your good work on the cab. I noticed some sort of quilted material acting as a headliner inside the cab. Was this for noise reduction? Did it help? What is it?

You have inspired me. I think I could do something like that, if I were to take some time away from trying to get my house finished.

Tom

 

[Bluecheck546]

Hey PILOON, AVESOME JOB... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PILOON]

The quilting material is what they use for baggage compartement areas in some aircraft, Notabily in military cargo a/c.
It is both a vapor barrier and an insululation product and also deadens sound.
I sandwitched it in place before screwing on the roof with metal screws.
Main purpose was 1- for insulation 2- vapor barrier as I did not want condensation dripping on me..
It works well.

At one point I made up floor matts to keep the toesies warm but since have discarded as the heater blowing downwards more than adaquately handles the problem.

The heater location also allows a simple deflector device to direct heat towards the windshield, but not really needed.
Note that in this compact tractor, the heater location is about the only place that you won't bang into. And I'm 6' tall.

A radio is what is seen near the heater. (Sometimes gets boring when I blow snow for hours)

The flat pannels of galvanized stock were cut on a shear and the folds done on a metal brake. I seem to recal that the shop charged me about $70. with the metal included.
The 1 1/2" sq tubing I purchased in 20' lengths, cut and welded myself.

What I did was make firstly one side and then cloned the second by clamping them together before tacking side #2. This insured a fairly good geometry.
Strips of flat stock were welded to the bottoms of the sides to allow bolting to the MT180D floor boards.
The rear of the cab is supported by two 'struts' that attach to existing bolts on the differential rear end.

My guess is that the cab would constitute a fair ROP protection as well.

The access door is easily remouvable and spends the summer in storage. Being basically lazy, I leave the rest of the cab on as I find it provides good sun and rain protection.

Another good project would be to install airconditioning!LOL!

The electrics end up in a quick disconnect plug to allow remouval of the cab.

 

[TMcD_in_MI]

Bob,

Thanks again for all the details and pictures. They have really helped me see just how I could go about making something similar.

Tom

 

[ThistleKop]

<font color="blue"> I noticed some sort of quilted material acting as a headliner inside the cab. </font>

Tom, I too have an interest in the headliner. I have lost the headliner from my canopy and have a harmonic noise at certain rpms. The canopy has numerous offsets and stiffening features in it's design. I'm seeking ideas to quieten the noise. The tractor is a 1975 model yr. so I'm not looking for OEM. Needs to be an adhesive backed or spray-on material seems to me. Thanks for any and all ideas.

TK

 

[PILOON]

Here is an idea to try.

On older cessna aircraft, they used to stick a large 'X' made from basic tared felt paper on large pannel areas to deaden drumming from vibration.

I think that the self adhesive roofing underlay would do a fine job.
Often refered to as self curing membrane.
It is a sort of uncured rubber material and usually sold in rolls 36" wide. (I also have seen smaller 12 " rolls).
This has all the properties of deadening the vibration type of noise as well as being a great vapor barrier to stop condensation drips.

 

[ThistleKop]

<font color="blue"> I think that the self adhesive roofing underlay would do a fine job.
Often refered to as self curing membrane.
</font>

Thanks Piloon, Do roofers use this under conventional shingles in-lieu of tacking the old style under layment down? Or is it the new type roofing that is used on flat roofs? Sounds like a good prospect for my need. I can possibly find a local roofer and buy a partial roll from him. Thanks again.

TK

 

[rockinmywaypa]

Ask for snow and ice shield, it has a peel off the paper sticky back side.

 

[PILOON]

rockinmywaypa

Quite correct. That is the most common name for the product.

Another application I found useful for this material was the leading edges of my rear fenders on my Chevy van.
Being as I drive on some gravel roads, I found that I was 'sand blasting' the rear fenders , so I stuck on about a sq ft or so and cured that problem.
Kinda a poor mans gravel guard.
Also paint adheared quite well.Drove it that way for about 6 yrs. Never blistered or pealed off.

Also got carried away and stuck on large leftover sheet pieces
on the inside of the van's large pannels. It shure deadened the tin drumming noises.

 

[PILOON]

ThistleKop

Yes, that is the modern replacement for roofing felt or underlay.

Generally specked for the overhangs and eaves as an ice guard as it become virtually leak proof.

Since it is so simple to Install I suggest that for the mere cost of materials that one should do his entire roof as it will result in an 'ultra roof job' that should never leak.

Once rolled out and exposed to a half hour of direct sun you literally will tear off a lamination of plywood or waferboard if you try to peel it back.

They are now laying this stuff down on new concrete floors under the furring strips that support the subfloor as the ultimate vapor barrier.

For the tractor application, you'd want a clean, dry and warm surface for it to adhere.

Try to find the origional product made by Grace as it is a smooth finish and will accept a paint.
Most of the others are a sandy (non slip surface) and black.
All , however are based on about a 3/32 thickness of uncured rubber material with a self adhering back.
They all have a paper or plastic 'tear off' backing to protect the adhesive.
150 sq ft runs generally in the $60 range in Canada.
Probably $45.ish in the US

 

[ThistleKop]

Thanks Piloon, sounds like what I need. I did some looking on the net and found WR Grace had it. They appear to be in, or have been in some bankruptcy proceeding. Also found Owens Corning Weatherlock that is .041 thick and in both textured and smooth finish. I think either will work. Now to find it is my next task. It's amazing how we can help each other on TBN. Thanks again.

TK

 

[jim_wilson]

The roofing material everybody is referring to here is Grace Ice and Water shield. This product is sometimes referred to as Bituthene or as the contractors I know refer to it
" bitchethane" because it sticks to everything. You can get it from Home Depot or probably Lowes or any decent lumberyard but a roll will run you about $85 - $90 and is way more than you will need for lining inside of a tractor cab.

I would suggest you look at a product called " DynaMat " . It is used by car stereo installers to dampen the reverberation you get out of car bodies when they install high end audio system. I have used it on a couple of computer cases to dampen out noise and it works ok. It is also a lot cheaper than the Grace product because you can buy much smaller amounts and it is made specifically for noise dampening not roof sealing. Crutchfield has it online here but most car stereo shops should also know what it is.

 

[ThistleKop]

Jim,
I looked at several of the Dynamat products. Several have good possibilities for my tractor canopy application. Thanks very much.

TK