home built FEL

[Chuck U&R]

Anybody build their own FEL ?

I'm a fair to good fabricator, mig, tig, plasma, lathe, etc,......

I've found two places that sell plans - CADPlans & p.f.engineering.
Any others out there ?

I'm interested in hearing any first hand experience good or bad about these company's and their products.

 

[Smoody]

Chuck, If you figure it out let me know and you can build me one. If you haven't read my latest post, the "deal" I found got sold from under me

 

[careyo63]

Wasn't Me Smoody!! But I did talk to the Guy. He done you a favor anyways. You just don't know it,when he answered a couple of questions at 11.30. He was planning on weighting until 1.30. I don't buy it that he sold it. Basicly the bucket isn't even worth a !!!!!!

Carey

 

[GPintheMitten]

Anybody build their own FEL ?

I'm a fair to good fabricator, mig, tig, plasma, lathe, etc,......

I've found two places that sell plans - CADPlans & p.f.engineering.
Any others out there ?

I'm interested in hearing any first hand experience good or bad about these company's and their products.

I'm barely ahead of you. I bought P.F. Engineering's plans and going to build a fel. I'm going to beef up some of the members a bit. He has recommendations for beefing it up for cuts. I like his plans. I have a thread I started and will be posting progress but haven't really started yet.

P.S. Here's my thread if you want to check it out as time goes by:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1873537#post1873537

 

[blackd]

I built the CadPlans small FEL about 9-10 years ago. I used the kit from the supplier on their website. Reinforced the hole area for the main arms. Use the recommended cylinders as tolerances are somewhat tight. The biggest lesson is to keep the front arms as close to front of tractor as possible. Do this by shortening the main arms or changing the angle of the bucket arms.

Since this was my first big welding exercise some of my welds were not pretty but they functioned. A grinder can be your best friend.

Mount the pieces on the tractor as you fab and tack weld. Then adjust (that grinder thing again) to keep them aligned. It is easy for the pieces to rack as you do final welding, so weld in short lengths on opposing sides.

If you don't like the appearance or apparent strength of a piece, beef it up. It's your loader.

Oh, and don't set your tractor on fire while final welding. Don't ask how I know!

 

[mus302]

A user over on MyTractorForum just posted some pictures of a loader build on a FX-13D.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=112649

 

[careyo63]

Nice. My point exactly you would probably be doing the same amount of work just to make it work. The Typical Ghetto Rig . Not counting how many times it breaks trying to use it. And Reghetto.rig the ghetto rig. At about the same cost if not cheaper Time and money. And yes the bucket is trash.

Carey

 

[joes_427_vette]

Built this loader for a Deere 4110. No plans.. just sizes from my head. Cost was a bit over $800 for materials. Lifts 8' high and responds well with the machines internal hydraulic pump. It has a Yanmar engine so part of it belongs here !

 

[California]

Wow! Gorgeous!

That looks a lot better than the ready-to-install loaders. Maybe you could sell plans.

 

[careyo63]

Check out the workmanship!! That is as good as it gets.Very Nice job,my point exactly on this thread .You would spend more trying to fix it,just as well trash it and start over. Just what I figured for 150.00$ that sounds about like what it would bring in salvage scrap metal,Maybe

Carey

 

[joes_427_vette]

If you take a few quick measurements of your machine ( frame mount location, post height, beam distance to where the bucket rests close to the front wheels ) the rest will fall into place. It is helpful to study hydraulic cylinder open and closed distances for proper fit and the height it lifts as applied to the loader frame. Sometimes they have specials on cylinders and if you can incorporate them in your plan it saves time and money. The tubing, hoses, and fittings were a bit pricey. Overall it was a fun project, especially the bucket and the quick attach system. I think the bending was only fifty dollars on a 1/8" sheet 63" by 48" with a small piece left over.
Even a genaric plan would have to be altered because machines are different widths, lengths and depending on the height. Besides... I like making my own mistakes. Sometimes I even remember them for future projects.
Can you imagine the profit JD makes on this item alone ? They have everything engineered out to the thinest degree, buy parts by the thousands, and even delete primer in the painting process. The dealer pays more for shipping than they have invested in the attachment. ( my opinion only )

 

[Smoody]

That is a nice looking homemade loader,impressive, when you said you have $800 in material is that including the hoses and joystick valve? or just the metal?

 

[joes_427_vette]

My JD came with a control valve / joy stick as standard equipment. The iron was only thirty five cents a pound at a local steel yard. The hoses, steel lines, fittings and four cylinders were the bulk of the expense.
The dealer wanted $375 for the loader mounts, $2800 for the loader / bucket , $300 for freight and another $300 to mount it plus tax. It just got too expensive for the green logo. I built my own grille guard. I think there was a charge for the JD one too as it is a part of the loader mounting system. As it was explained to me... " Yah got to have it "