Hitching up 3pt Attachments ?

[SCRich]

OK this may be a simple question for some but I am really green and the tractor manual mentions nothing about the process to connect rear implements.

How do you hitch up ? It always seems difficult much more than it should be maybe this is the way it is but maybe it's that I am doing something wrong.

I drop, disconnect the top link, bang away at the pins with a 5lb hammer, curse, bang again, curse kick and it usually comes apart. Then when I change from my box blade to rake I got to play with the side links to get the arms the right width to fit the other implement. Put the lower pins in, play with the top link to get it to reach the top anchor then pin that.

Since I am cleaning and grading a lot of land that is soon to be our home I am needing to switch from the box blade to rake several times a day. This weekend I gave up and tried a new way, grapple and rake Saturday then on Sunday I did the bucket (QD by the way) and box blade. I would have liked to rake again after the box blade but by the end of the day I was too tired to fight.

I see a lot of talk about QD rear adapters. I bought one at Harbor Freight on Friday and tried it on Saturday, it did not even fit. I mounted it to the tractor thinking it was simple but the top hook is the wrong size to fit where the top link would go and the lower pin spacing on the bracket was the wrong size.

I think I hate switching implements so much and need to do it so often in one day I would be willing to pay a good price for a QD setup if it really would work. Some of the threads I see about specific adapters seem to show that they all have their own troubles.

Rich

 

[thatguy]

Beating and banging is pretty par for the course at times.. As you found on the quick hitch you bought wont fit all implements..

A system like Pats Easy Change fits just on the ends of the arms and takes the beating and banging out of the equation.. With pats you just set the width, back up square (very importatant) and raise the hitch - it snaps into place.. Then hook up the top link and PTO (if required) and away you go..

Brian

 

[Z-Michigan]

Need some info on your current setup. Do you have telescoping draft links? Stabilizers?

I have telescoping draft links, basic chain stabilizers and no quick hitch. I have found that I can unhook in a minute or so and hook up a new implement in 2-5 minutes depending how cooperative it is. Unhooking has been easy - I may have to kick the arms a bit to get pins off, but nothing more than that. Wondering if your pins have gotten sticky or if there is still weight on them when you're trying to unhitch.

Hooking up is not too bad with telescoping links, but I imagine it would be awful with fixed links. I would definitely try Pat's or a better quick hitch if you have fixed links.

 

[RoyJackson]

Another vote for Pat's Easy Change.

You may still have to do a bit of jiggling the implements, but it'll be a lot less.
As a word of advice...when using Pat's system, the lugs are held on the implement pin by a lynch pin going through a bent washer (which has a figure 8 hole stamped in it). You get 4 or 6 of these washers when you buy the kit. Order a half dozen or so spares. You will need them as time goes by and if you order extras when purchasing, you can save on shipping costs.

 

[dweitzel]

OK this may be a simple question for some but I am really green and the tractor manual mentions nothing about the process to connect rear implements.

How do you hitch up ? It always seems difficult much more than it should be maybe this is the way it is but maybe it's that I am doing something wrong.

I drop, disconnect the top link, bang away at the pins with a 5lb hammer, curse, bang again, curse kick and it usually comes apart. Then when I change from my box blade to rake I got to play with the side links to get the arms the right width to fit the other implement. Put the lower pins in, play with the top link to get it to reach the top anchor then pin that.

Rich

Rich, may be a dumb question, but have you tried using 6"x6" scrap lumber, 4"x4" and 2"x4" lumber under your implements when you drop them to hold them up off the ground a bit and a little more level side to side. This makes it way easier to hook up a rotary cutter and my BB. I use different size pieces of wood to allow the top link to have some slack in it so the pin will come out easily. Sounds like your lift arm pins may be binding up. When you release all the pressure off the lift arms, they really should slide off pretty easily unless the weight of the implement is still on them.

Another idea is to spray the pins liberally with lithium grease or something like that. The lift arms tend to slide off a little easier.

I usually do not mess with the side links too much as I like a little sway in my implements if I happen to bump into somthing solid. Can you get them set to a common middle ground and let them stay at that adjustment?

Dave

 

[RoyJackson]

Wow! Although I recommended pat's Easy Change, I never responded to the original question!

I always rig to the lower links first. Before I got Pat's, I'd have a pry bar (which could be a 5' length of 2x4) and a maul or smaller sledge hammer. I back the tractor (3 PH lower links raised ~ the height of the implement pins) so the links are as close to the pins as I can get. It also help to loosen the sway chains, if your tractor has them.
Once I'm there, it's a matter of leveraging the implement until you get the pin aligned with one of the eyes (on the lower link). I always do the fixed link first, BTW. Once fairly well aligned, use the maul or sledge on the link to drive it on the pin. Keep pressure against the tractor's lower link, otherwise it may pop back off while you're smacking it with the maul. Once on the implement pin, install a lynch pin (if you leave the lynch pin off, the link may pop off when you're working on the other link...that will really cause foul langauge!).
Once the first link is installed, lever the other side and repeat the process.
Tighten the sway chains, then rig the PTO shaft to your tractor's PTO (if a driven implement).
Then, of course, the upper link.

The first times you do this, it's a bear! Especially when rigging a heavy implement like a rotary cutter. It does get a little easier with practice, however. The first time I rigged my cutter to the tractor, it took a good 20 minutes or more. There was a lot of cursing too, I might add...

I also put a length of wood (or two) under the implement. That helps when you're trying to lever the unit and the implement slides around easier then it would on the ground.

 

[RalphVa]

You need something to make moving the implements easier: pieces of wood underneath them or dollies or castors. I've switched 3 different implements in less than 15 minutes' time using these means.

Loosen the turnbuckles. Put the non adjustable bottom link on first, then the adjustable after adjusting as required to match up. Then put the top link on. Go to a level spot and adjust the adjustable bottom link and then the top link as needed.

Ralph

 

[john_bud]

Rich,
It should take about 3-5 minutes to take one off and the same to put one on. If you are spending more time and struggling, you need to improve the technique used.

1) Get a 5' long steel pry bar. Most good farm stores will have one. 6' would be even better, but are harder to find. It's used to pry the first arm off of the implement. (make sure the stabilizer links are removed!) Then it is used to move the implement to get it to line up with the lower arms.

2) Alignment is everything! It is also not the same for the left side and the right side. This is due to the arms swinging on a short arc. First do the drivers left side. Bring the tractor back with the left (non-adjustable side) in real close alignment. Then get off the tractor and use the pry bar to get the final alignment by moving the implement. Hook the pin. Then use the pry bar to move the implement into alignment on the right side. Use the up/down adjustment to help you. You can also pull the tractor forward or back to make larger moves in alignment. (This is a trick that is easier with HST). You should never use a sledge hammer or similar. They will damage the arms and pins and brute force is not an acceptable replacement for correct alignment.

3) do the top link and go.

 

[Soundguy]

I can't speak for any of the QD questions.. I don't use them.. don't need them.. After a while.. you can unhitch and hitch new equipment in seconds.. mostly it takes practice.

Biggest factor is dropping the implement on level ground.. baring that.. set you some blocks or wood cribbing down.. that makes it way esier to hitch up.

If you are particularly horrible about doing this.. get your tractor hitched up.. set the cribbing or blocks down... set the implement down.. get some orange marking paint.. mark a line at the front of the implement.. mark a line for each tire.. mark a line for you to line a tire up to.. that way you know exactly where to back into to be in perfect alignment with that implement.. then ALWAYS return it to that spot. After a few uses.. you probably won't need the paint reminders anymore.

A 2x4 leaning against the fence in the area where you keep your implements can be a big help. Nothing like an 8' lever to nudge an implement into place.. besides.. it is much easier onthe paint too.

soundguy

OK this may be a simple question for some but I am really green and the tractor manual mentions nothing about the process to connect rear implements.

How do you hitch up ? It always seems difficult much more than it should be maybe this is the way it is but maybe it's that I am doing something wrong.

I drop, disconnect the top link, bang away at the pins with a 5lb hammer, curse, bang again, curse kick and it usually comes apart. Then when I change from my box blade to rake I got to play with the side links to get the arms the right width to fit the other implement. Put the lower pins in, play with the top link to get it to reach the top anchor then pin that.

Since I am cleaning and grading a lot of land that is soon to be our home I am needing to switch from the box blade to rake several times a day. This weekend I gave up and tried a new way, grapple and rake Saturday then on Sunday I did the bucket (QD by the way) and box blade. I would have liked to rake again after the box blade but by the end of the day I was too tired to fight.

I see a lot of talk about QD rear adapters. I bought one at Harbor Freight on Friday and tried it on Saturday, it did not even fit. I mounted it to the tractor thinking it was simple but the top hook is the wrong size to fit where the top link would go and the lower pin spacing on the bracket was the wrong size.

I think I hate switching implements so much and need to do it so often in one day I would be willing to pay a good price for a QD setup if it really would work. Some of the threads I see about specific adapters seem to show that they all have their own troubles.

Rich

 

[Cacinok]

ditto to what sound guy said about lowering the implements onto either level ground or some type of cribbing and to what he, and others, mentioned about a lever. the lever makes sliding the lower arms off a piece of cake.

as far as installing new implements, lining the tractor up is perhaps the most important part of it. once, i am as close as i can get, i can usually get one point on easily enough and then roll the bucket forward or backward on the ground or raise the 3ph to give me minute adjustments to hook up the other two points.

as sound guy mentioned it is all about practice, but then again, isn't everything.

 

[mjncad]

Get yourself a Land Pride QH-15 with the adjustable top hook. I have one and it's one of the best purchases I ever made for my JD 4200. If you do get the Land Pride, get cotter rings from your local Deere or other tractor dealer to replace the hairpin type clips to hold the clevis pins in place. I kept having the hairpin clips pop off during use, which was annoying at best, scary at worst.

For those that don't know what cotter rings are; they are similar to key rings used for your car keys; but they have a one end of the wire bent at angle to make removal and installation easier. In an emergency, I have used car key rings; but they are a pain to install and remove.

Land Pride QH15 Cat. 1 Quick-Hitch

I try to buy implements that are quick hitch compatible; but I'm getting better at adapting non quick hitch adaptable implements to be used with my quick hitch.

 

[1bush2hog]

You need something to make moving the implements easier: pieces of wood underneath them or dollies or castors. I've switched 3 different implements in less than 15 minutes' time using these means.

Loosen the turnbuckles. Put the non adjustable bottom link on first, then the adjustable after adjusting as required to match up. Then put the top link on. Go to a level spot and adjust the adjustable bottom link and then the top link as needed.

Ralph

Perfect explanation - This works for me anyway...along with an occasional strategic nudge from a 2x4 or prybar, and sometimes pin persuasion with a hammer. Dollies and castors aren't always convenient out in the field, but keeping unused implements resting on level 2x's or 4x's allows them to slide easier if need be.

 

[firemanpat2910]

the easiest way is with the type of hitch that you permanantly mount 1 piece to the implement and mount the other on the tractor

 

[KentT]

the easiest way is with the type of hitch that you permanantly mount 1 piece to the implement and mount the other on the tractor

Or, you could forego the whole "3-pt" experience alltogether -- and never even have to leave the seat. It changes your whole outlook on using different implements when it only takes 20-30 seconds to do so...

 

[RichNJKubota]

Careful tractor positioning is the most important thing. Getting the lift arms in the right spot helps. It takes a few minutes and I don't need a hammer or pry bar.

 

[familyman]

KentT,

What IS that thing?

 

[KentT]

KentT,

What IS that thing?

It's a Power Trac PT-425 hydraulically-driven, articulated tractor... there's a forum for Power Tracs down below. Here's their website:

Versatile Tractors,Compact Tractors,Trailer Packages,Landscaping,Utility Vehicle Rentals,Mowers-Power Trac


They're available in a range of sizes up to 60HP diesels that'll operate on 45 degree slopes.

 

[Soundguy]

Hmm.. I don't think that will run my batwing mower.. or lift my round hay bales.. I think I'll stick to a tractor! (grin)

Soundguy

Or, you could forego the whole "3-pt" experience alltogether -- and never even have to leave the seat. It changes your whole outlook on using different implements when it only takes 20-30 seconds to do so...

 

[KentT]

Hmm.. I don't think that will run my batwing mower.. or lift my round hay bales.. I think I'll stick to a tractor! (grin)

Soundguy

With one of these, you probably wouldn't want a batwing. Implements belong in front, so you can watch them, and so you can drive on the fresh mown area, not mash it down and then try to mow it... What kind of slopes can you mow on with that batwing? Does it have a turning radius under 6 feet?

And if mowing on steep slopes isn't your thing, you can always take the "high road"...

BTW, some of the big ones will lift 2400 lbs to 8 ft, and a different model to 10 ft. How much do your round bales weigh? How high do you want to stack 'em?

Seriously, I don't think "tractor" is really a good term to describe them... "tool carrier" is probably the best term, but no one would really know what you were talking about.

I've tried calling them a "consumer pay-loader" with LOTS (over 40) different attachments to use... some people can visualize that description. BTW, you can even get 3 pt hitches for them. But, why?

 

[john_bud]

With one of these, you probably wouldn't want a batwing. Implements belong in front, so you can watch them, and so you can drive on the fresh mown area, not mash it down and then try to mow it... What kind of slopes can you mow on with that batwing? Does it have a turning radius under 6 feet?

I'm not Soundguy, but I think his batwing is 15' wide. That's what batwings are for - cutting large areas quickly. Different jobs, different tools needed.

PT's are interesting, but when you get to the serious jobs, interesting tools are not as often used.


(but aside from the field mowing, I think a larger PT could do all of his chores...)

jb