hitching advice

[Anonymous Poster]

I just took delivery of a new Kubota B7500. When I back up to hitch up to my bush hog or box blade my lower link bars are about 12 inches apart. Can anybody give me some advice on how to keep the bars spread all the way apart while backing up to hitch??

 

[Bird]

Keith, that's a common problem, and I guess you could figure out a way to use some bungee cords to hold them apart (I've seen it done on some bigger tractors but have never done it myself). I just raise the 3-point all the way so when I back up to an implement the lower links are up around the mast, then lower them to the pins and they slide apart as they slide down the mast. That way I can also tell if I'm straight with the implement and if I'm back the right distance when the ball sockets are resting on the pins of the implement.

Bird

 

[hayden]

I've used shock cord to keep them apart.

This is exactly why the stabilizers on the 2710 and 2910 are so nice. The pins hold them in a fixed position.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

On my B2400 I hook a bungee cord from the little loop on the outside of each hitch arm (where the spare lynch pins go) to a hole on the inside of the fender. The cord should be just long enough so there is a little bit of tension when the hitch is all the way up. With the hitch up the arms will be close together, but as you lower it they will spread apart. It is simple and works great. This idea was given to me so I thought I would pass it along.

Andy

 

[Thomas]

Keith,
I measure than cut a small 1"x1" stick and on each end made it to fit down over the bars to spread the bars.

Works good /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gifbut the only draw back don't run over the stick /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gifso make two. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bunge cords and I don't see I to eye,/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif for I have had couple of close calls when they break./w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif

Take care and stay /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[TomG]

My lower links are seldom at the right width, but I don't think of that as a problem. Even if they were at the right width, I think I'd spend a lot of time trying to back up 'just right'.

Much as Bird said, I just back up so I can lower one link into its pin slot (or over the pin if the pin is built into the implement) . I then make one pin (with the engine off, of course) and just spread the other link by hand over the pin slot. Most times, the link drops into the slot, but a combination of lowering the 3ph and using the leveler will put the second pin in the slot and roughly line it up.

Usually, the tractor isn't quite square with the implement so the link and holes don't line up enough to make the second pin. I use a 5' wrecking bar to move the implement into position. In fact, the wrecking bar and keeping implements on blocks (so they can be moved easily with the bar) are the most useful things I've found in changing implements.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

These are some good ideas to try. Thanks for the help!

 

[roysallis]

The biggest help I have found is to make sure the implement and the tractor are on level ground.

 

[glennmac]

Phooey.

This discussion is like how to change a ribbon on a manual typewriter.

Pssst . . . (freedom hitch) . . .

Glenn