Hitch on bucket

[bones1]

Mad's got some plans for one of those,did you make it?

 

[MadReferee]

I made that for Tim. In fact that is the first one I built and the plans I offer were based on that build.

 

[Sully2]

How about something like this? I screw it on the bucket when I need it, take it off when I don't.

MOST definately! If you mount them on TOP of the FEL bucket...you need "about" a 8 inch drop to get to "normal" height trailer couplers.. Wne mounted on the bottom of the bucket..you already KNOW that you are as low as you can go...and you just position yourself and raise the bucket right into the trailer coupler!

I bouth the Easy Hitch.??...for the rear for mine but intend on having a front gizmo made up like yours for when i MIGHT need it.

 

[Dargo]

I bouth the Easy Hitch.??...for the rear for mine but intend on having a front gizmo made up like yours for when i MIGHT need it.

I designed the "easy hitch" about 5 years ago and sold them on eBay. I've since found much better options. I also tried a clamp on mount at the bottom of the bucket. The real issue there is that you cannot see your hitch from the operators seat. Besides, it still had to be mounted and dismounted and, it didn't function well with the +1000 pound tongue weight of a large gooseneck trailer.

Rather than re-invent the wheel, I saw in Sikeston, MO that nearly every trailer manufacturer there (and I'd bet there are a dozen or more manufacturers there) had the simple receiver welded onto the top of the bucket on their tractors to move around their hundreds of trailers each day. As I said before, that design was NOT my idea; I simply borrowed that idea from people who move trailers all day long every day. And, I found that, for me, it was by far the best option. Embarrassingly enough, I found the worst idea was my design of the 3 pt. hitch mounted rig even though it only costs about $22 to make. I suppose it would be okay if you never used the 3 pt. hitch for anything else. I'll gladly admit that my ideas were far more complicated, cost more to build, and were not nearly as effective as the least expensive and easiest solution. The only issue I see is if you don't have an FEL...

 

[Sully2]

... The only issue I see is if you don't have an FEL...

Well..personally..I'd sure hate to have to BACK down the highway for 3 miles as I haul a trailer back and forth with (fill in the blank) in it from my buddys house!!

And as far as never using the 3 pnt for anything else..I dont NEED to hook anything ELSE up ...when I need the hitch capabilities!! I either pull a trailer..or I use some other impliment...never BOTH at the same time??

 

[Dargo]

Well..personally..I'd sure hate to have to BACK down the highway for 3 miles as I haul a trailer back and forth with (fill in the blank) in it from my buddys house!!

I'm glad you like the original design of the 3 pt. hitch for moving trailers. However, to go 3 miles down the highway with it would be simply dangerous. That design does not incorporate anything to prevent the hitch from raising up if you had to stop in a hurry. As I said earlier, I designed that hitch many years ago and sold them on eBay, however one of the reasons I quit selling that design was due to the fact that one guy told me that when he went down a hill the hitch bucked up and nearly caused him to lose control. To transport a trailer that far you really should use a later, improved, design of that hitch that locks it in position or, more appropriately, use the draw bar which is designed to transport a trailer. Even if you don't mind the hassles of changing the 3 pt. implements, you are not safe when you have no way to prevent your hitch from raising up if you stop quickly.

The other obvious answer is that to move a trailer that far, why wouldn't you use a vehicle???

 

[Sully2]

I'm glad you like the original design of the 3 pt. hitch for moving trailers. However, to go 3 miles down the highway with it would be simply dangerous. That design does not incorporate anything to prevent the hitch from raising up if you had to stop in a hurry. As I said earlier, I designed that hitch many years ago and sold them on eBay, however one of the reasons I quit selling that design was due to the fact that one guy told me that when he went down a hill the hitch bucked up and nearly caused him to lose control. To transport a trailer that far you really should use a later, improved, design of that hitch that locks it in position or, more appropriately, use the draw bar which is designed to transport a trailer. Even if you don't mind the hassles of changing the 3 pt. implements, you are not safe when you have no way to prevent your hitch from raising up if you stop quickly.

The other obvious answer is that to move a trailer that far, why wouldn't you use a vehicle???

I guess my only REAL questions is why did I ever bother to remove you from my IGNORE list?? I sure wont make THAT mistake again!

 

[AlanB]

Speeco makes some rods / bars that slide over the pin on the draw bar, and go up to the top link. They have a slot in the center and you pinch them together with a bolt. This eliminates the hitch raising up when using the drawbar to tow. (Or I guess really anything)

The down side is that you have to leave them loose to raise and lower the 3 point, then tighten them when you get it too the height you want it.

I saw them at TSC but if soundguy had not explained them too me, I would have never known what they were, and god forbid that someone at TSC would know. I will see if I can find a picture somewhere.

If I remember right, they were about $8 each, and you need 4, two tops and two bottoms.

http://www.speeco.com/three-point.asp

Lower left corner is the word, stay strap....

http://www.speeco.com/asp/individual_pic_view.asp?category=Stabilizer+Arms+&+Brackets

DS 511 and DS512 I think is what you want

 

[Sully2]

Speeco makes some rods / bars that slide over the pin on the draw bar, and go up to the top link. They have a slot in the center and you pinch them together with a bolt. This eliminates the hitch raising up when using the drawbar to tow. (Or I guess really anything)
The down side is that you have to leave them loose to raise and lower the 3 point, then tighten them when you get it too the height you want it.
I saw them at TSC but if soundguy had not explained them too me, I would have never known what they were, and god forbid that someone at TSC would know. I will see if I can find a picture somewhere.
If I remember right, they were about $8 each, and you need 4, two tops and two bottoms.
http://www.speeco.com/three-point.asp
Lower left corner is the word, stay strap....
http://www.speeco.com/asp/individual_pic_view.asp?category=Stabilizer+Arms+&+Brackets
DS 511 and DS512 I think is what you want

Most certainly if someone is pulling anything of any WEIGHT and MASS to it...they want to be sure their hitch setup can sustain certain forces that might occur...but the sort of trailers that "I PULL" weigh about 400 pounds empty.... Im not talking a gravity bed trailer..or a "car hauler"...Im talking LITTLE items. SOME just need to get off the farm at times and ASK what someone else is "doing". Worrying about a hitch "riding up" with the items I use if telling me its "unsafe" to not use safety chains when I pull that trailer across my front yard. Kinda OVERKILL....LOL

 

[Dargo]

I guess my only REAL questions is why did I ever bother to remove you from my IGNORE list?? I sure wont make THAT mistake again!

No problems here. I'm glad you like your hitch. Sorry I pointed out a potential hazzard to you if it upsets you. By all means, please feel free to "ignore" me again. I promise you I'll be okay. Obviously you must be still rattled from some other issues I cannot even recall. Hopefully you're not upset with the other post that describes how you can remedy the design flaw that could potentially be very dangerous. Nobody is accusing you of making the design flaw and I'm sure they didn't mention it when you bought it. I'll be happy to honor your implied request that I refrain from pointing out possible dangerous issues to you. Since I actually did design that many years ago, the error was mine. I would not have known if it wasn't pointed out to me by someone I'd sold one to on eBay. I appreciated their feedback and made several modifications before I quit making them a while back. Again, sorry to have offended you. If it works for you, and you're happy, that all that matters.

Be safe.

 

[Bedlam]

I just run a chain from the draw bar to the 3PH hitch tow I made, and then raise the hitch until the chain is tight. This keeps it from 'riding; up.

 

[project]

EBAY has a couple of clamp on hitches that seem will made. Concerned about the clamp slipping or becoming loose while using. is there anything else that can be done to secure the clamp short of welding? Thanks

 

[MadReferee]

Concerned about the clamp slipping or becoming loose while using. is there anything else that can be done to secure the clamp short of welding? Thanks

Unfortunately that is a fact of life with the clamp-ons. The entire unit will attempt to slide forward no matter how hard the clamp is tightened. I tried to really minimize this by incorporating certain features into my design to prevent the unit from slipping forward. It is all detailed in my plans. PM me if you want a copy.

 

[Casco1]

Here's mine, seemed like a good idea at the time. But after adding the toothbar I definitely need a serious drop hitch, although I may end up using it for a light duty boom pole.

 

[fabrej]

Here is a pic of the one I made for my tractor. I didn't go with the receiver hitch design because I didn't think I needed anything but the ball on it and didn't want it to stick way out. I use it for moving empty trailers around and it works just fine.

 

[Bedlam]

Looks great. I assume with the piece of metal on the bottom and behind the cutting edge, that it prevents it from sliding off.
I saved a couple of the pics. I may just copy the idea. (if its ok with you).

 

[MadReferee]

Looks great. I assume with the piece of metal on the bottom and behind the cutting edge, that it prevents it from sliding off.
I saved a couple of the pics. I may just copy the idea. (if its ok with you).

If you got a copy of my plans for the bucket forks and bucket hitch you will see that my design utilized the same technique in order to prevent the unit from sliding forward. It does work.

 

[fabrej]

Yes, the metal on the bottom keeps it from sliding forward since there is the lip on the bottom of the bucket.

Feel free to copy away on the design. Let me know if you need a side pic of it when not installed on the bucket.

James

 

[project]

since I'm lacking the welding equip. is it possible to purchase one (ebay) and have a shop weld flat iron to the bottom to prevent slipping. I just checked my bucket and it has a small lip. (Fabrej) would appreciate the side picture you offered. Thank you all for the pictures and plans. Tony

 

[fabrej]

I just snapped this picture. I hope it shows what you need.

James