High pressure hydraulic line

[apate]

I just had a high pressure hydraulic line rupture on my kubota b2400. Anyone else have this happen? If so, is there anything I need to know special to replace it, I am assuming that I just need to replace the line and then refill and bleed the hydraulics. Is there a "best" way to do this? Is there any place that you guys recommend purchsing parts on the internet? Do you guys recommend purchasing a repair manual for this task, seems simple enough. I am mechanically inclined and comfortable with turning a wrench. I appreciate any comments, thanks in advance.

 

[chrisjbell]

Huh, don't think I've ever seen that mentioned around here, but it does happen. Did it to a forklift at a place I used to work and all they did was put a new line in. Didn't seem like too big of a deal (I was doing my best not to get dragged in to that mess /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif).

Just make sure you don't get in the way of a leak. Hydraulic fluid can cause nasty stuff (like gangrene) if it is injected, which can happen with a small, high pressure leak. Use a peice of cardboard to see where the leak is - not your hand.

Anyway, the system should "self bleed" as it is used (at least it does on mine). Just keep an eye on your fluid level - as air is expelled from the system the fluid level will drop.

 

[Bird]

I assume you're talking about a hydraulic hose. If so, just take it off and many tractor dealers and some auto parts stores, farmers co-ops, etc. can very quickly make a new one the same size. Just put it on, check the hydraulic oil to see that it isn't low, top it off if necessary, start the engine, cycle the hydraulics and go about your business. No "bleeding" to worry about. If you've never changed one yourself, one thing that some of us (well . . , me anyway) would have thought is that it should be really tight to handle the pressure and that isn't the case. Don't overdo it. And as already stated, don't get in the way of a high pressure leak. Check for leaks with a mirror, small piece of cardboard, or something similar; not your hand.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Apate,
Make sure of what type of hose it is. Rubber covered hydraulic hoses are available as 1 wire (100R1) and two wire (100R2) hoses. The wire is the braid used to handle the pressure requirements of the system its used on. The 100R2 hose has a higher pressure rating. You can use a 2 wire braid 100R2 hose in place of a 100R1 hose but not vice versa.
Good luck!
DaveL
OOPS! Forgot to mention: Burden Surplus center has a good assortment of hydraulic components and pre-made hoses. I don't know how to attach the link but it should come up on your search engine if you type in surplus center.

 

[ronjhall]

Here’s the link.. Surplus Center

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Depending where the hose is plugged into ,t here is pipe thread & O-ring ends. Be sure to match up the same kind, they are not interchangable. Most likely you'll have pipe thread, but....

If it ruptured open & _all_ your oil shot out, you may need to reprime your hydraulic pump. It is unlikely things got that far. The hose & hyd cylinders you don't need to 'prime', just extend & retract a few times to cycle the air out.

It used to be that you should _not_ use pipe dope or Teflon tape on hyd fittings. In the past decade I see a lot of dealers & 'experts' using tape. I guess I probably wouldn't, but if you do be very, very sure not to get any tape into the hyd system. It is just plain bad if it's in there. Leave a thread or 2 on the end bare, so nothing works into the system. I'd not use anything at all.


--->Paul

 

[apate]

Thanks for all the help guys, it has been a help. Here are a few photos to help clarify and for those interested to see what a mess I got myself into. Actually, I am really getting to know my tractor.

This first photo shows the foot plate removed and the green dashes and arrow indicate the steel hydraulic line that ruptured.

 

[apate]

Here is a photo taken from the top looking down over the right rear axle. There is the "banjo" fitting that is welded to the high pressure line leading to the front of the tractor. You can't see the rupture, it is actually on the bottom side of the line. I can only guess that it was caused by a poor weld or weakened area in the line at the weld. There is no evidence of abuse, or something striking the line. Just one in a million chance that it ruptured. (don't I feel lucky!)

 

[apate]

Here the line comes into a double banjo fitting which the hydraulic block for the FEL lines are attached. The bad hydraulic line continues on from here and attaches to the hydraulic pump, shown in the next photo.

 

[apate]

So here, we finally end up at the hydraulic pump. This is one single line, one piece with two banjo fittings welded in. If the kubota dealer got it right from my description, it is a $95 part and will take me 4 - 5 days to get. I have left the line on until I get the new one since the tractor is stuck outside and rain is in the forcast. I have to remove all the linkages for the HST forward and reverse pedal, the brakes, hoses for the FEL and return hose for the transmission. Well, wish me luck, and if anyone has any suggestions after seeing the photos, feel free to throw in your two cents, I more than open to any advise. The line gets here Thursday I hope.

 

[Bird]

So we were talking about hydraulic "hoses" and you were talking about a steel line. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif In that case, I think you'd have to go through a dealer to get that one all right.

 

[chrisjbell]

Wow! That doesn't look like it will be any fun at all to replace /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. Hopefully the dealer was able to order the correct part. Good luck with it!

 

[macp]

That's a nasty part to change, all right. I do have the shop manual for the B2400 and can look at it this weekend if you have any questions. Was the three point hitch topped out by any chance? That's the only thing I can see that would cause extreme pressure in that line (it feeds high pressure fluid to the three point hydraulics). Good luck with the fix.
-Mac

 

[Pks]

I have some good news /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif for you... along with a little news that might be viewed as unpleasant /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif .

I've replaced this steel hydraulic line before (on my 1998 B2400). And I might be able to guide you a litteel bit. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

First, unless the dealer has already mentioned it, order a new (maybe two is best) banjo fitting and several of those copper seals that seal the banjo fitting to the upper transmission case. Two seals are used, one on each side of the "hydraulic block".

Second, keep the old line and have it welded so the next time you'll have a spare. There may be a next time. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Third, just for information's sake, compare the new pipe with the pipe presently installed on the tractor. I think you will find they are different in how they bend near the bajo fitting. No big deal. After the original banjo fitting was loose, the original pipe didn't fit too well any way. The new one, with the new profile fit better (but not perfect).

OK, here's why I mentioned ordering a new bajo fitting and seals... THEY BREAK EASILY. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Maybe it's just me, /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif but I got more than a little peaved /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif when the original fitting broke. It took no real effort to break it! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Follow the torque specs! If you need them, call your dealer and have them READ IT FROM THE BOOK. Don't accept the values if they pull them out of their memort! I'll try to find my book (we moved recently) and post them here when I get home tonight (it'll be about 10 PM EDT). The torque specs are in INCH POUNDS, which means this thing will break, strip or wreck your plans if you over tighten it.

Two new copper seals are required because the old ones leak if re-used...Mine did. Since I broke two banjo fittings, I needed six copper washers. I keep one banjo fitting and 4 or so seals in my new parts bin...just in case.

According to my dealer, this supply pipe is prone to breaking when it gets smacked by small branches. That seems pretty lame to me. Personally, I think the weld is lousey and the sticks just hasten the inevitable.

When you remove the linkages for the pedals and parking break, draw a picture (or photograph it) of all that stuff. By mistake, some parts can go together backwards until the last assembly steps. Then you'll see that the pieces don't line up right so a disassembly will be required...again. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I had some drawings but still managed to get the cruise control messed up a little bit. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

One other thing comes to mind... while your under there, consider re-routing all your rubber hydraulic lines. Raise them out of harm's way. Also, consider polishing the pivot journals for the pedals. After they are greased, they will move more smoothly (at least mine did). /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I think my total repair time was three hours. About 1 hour was probably used for studying how things worked, looked etc. I think it took about a solid hour to put everything back together...once I quite fiddling with polishing journals and looking around.

 

[apate]

Thanks PKS, your reply and everyone else helped me get through this thing. It turned out really well, my father in law works in a shipyard and he took the line with him to work and re-brazed the banjo fitting for me and pressure tested it. Bonus: when I dropped the fitting off at his house, he fed me a prime rib dinner. Got the line back the next day, used new washers, put it back together and happy ending /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. PKS, it was a great idea, I used my digital camera to take photos of the parts I disassembled before diving in.

For future info, I believe my problems arose from getting off the tractor. I kept bumping the 3ph lift lever and it lifted the BH up. Then when using the BH, I think this exerted a lot of pressure on that hydraulic line and caused the failure. I think the lesson learned is always make sure your 3ph lever is in the "down" position especially when using the BH. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

This forum never ceases to amaze me, alot of useful info here. I am glad to see you got it repaired and a bonus to boot. BTW, what is that green thingy on your key ring, just doesn't go with Kubota <font color="orange"> orange. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif