Buying Advice Help

   / Help #1  

MyFirstTractor

New member
Joined
May 2, 2010
Messages
10
Location
Northeast Pennsylvania
I need help with pricing, what ballast i need for the tractor, and any other info you might think would help me. Here is what I posted on my intro thread.

I will be buying my first tractor this year and and I have been researching for months but there are so many choices it is a bit overwhelming. It will be used on a 160 acre property with about 40 acres open fields and the rest wooded. I have some pollen allergies so I will be getting one with a cab, but nothing else is carved in stone. It will mostly be used for brush hogging the open fields and reclaiming some fields that are getting overgrown with Russian Olive. Since there are some overgrown fields I think a lift type brush hog would be best. From what I have read, it appears that to power a fairly heavy duty lift type brush hog I need at least 40 HP PTO. From talking to tractor owners and from what I have read online, a Kubota seems like a good choice. I am leaning toward either a Grand L4740 or a M5040. I will probably also get a FEL with it. Sorry if this seems long winded, but from reading the posts on here, it seems the more info I give the better you can help, so HELP please.
 
   / Help #2  
I have several tractors, but believe either of those mentioned would work well for you. I have a Grand L5030 for similar use and would not want to go down much on the horse power scale though I gave very serious consideration to the L4240. I don't know anything about the M Series as I already own a couple of bigger tractors, but I am sure they would work well also.

We use both pull type and three-point rotary cutters and both work well. We find the pull type much more stable on slopes.

Good luck in your search.
 
   / Help #3  
I need help with pricing, what ballast i need for the tractor, and any other info you might think would help me. Here is what I posted on my intro thread.

I will be buying my first tractor this year and and I have been researching for months but there are so many choices it is a bit overwhelming. It will be used on a 160 acre property with about 40 acres open fields and the rest wooded. I have some pollen allergies so I will be getting one with a cab, but nothing else is carved in stone. It will mostly be used for brush hogging the open fields and reclaiming some fields that are getting overgrown with Russian Olive. Since there are some overgrown fields I think a lift type brush hog would be best. From what I have read, it appears that to power a fairly heavy duty lift type brush hog I need at least 40 HP PTO. From talking to tractor owners and from what I have read online, a Kubota seems like a good choice. I am leaning toward either a Grand L4740 or a M5040. I will probably also get a FEL with it. Sorry if this seems long winded, but from reading the posts on here, it seems the more info I give the better you can help, so HELP please.

Looks like you now need to go and get seat time and decide which one fits your mental image of what you think a "tractor" is. Either one you picked will do the job. May use money also as the deciding factor between the two.
 
   / Help #4  
know I am going to start a long discussion/flame war about mowing and tractors but:


As you have stated you have allergies:

The M8540 is the Kubota utility tractor(designed for orchard and vineyard spraying specifically with the pressurised filtered tractor cabin as standard equipment.


Unless you plan on wearing a 3M M-93 particulate mask-I think this is the model anyway-its out in my truck and I am in here :^).


You would have to order a tractor cabin with pressurised air system otherwise- I know here he goes again.

The Laurin Eclipse model tractor cabin for almost all Kubota models pressurised cabin and air conditioning if desired.

The liquid "Rim Guard" ballast is better than wheel weights.



The flail mower with the hammer knives is the mower of choice because it works well and does not throw material making missles out of rocks, bolts, cans,

etc., and it simply grinds it up with much less effort than with a bush hog rotary with much less energy per foot of length and it will not clog either.



The flail mower with grass knives or hammer knives has more total cutting edge length than a brush hogs typical two blades and cuts at a faster speed

than a brush hog and it does not leave long grass pieces.

The flail mower cuttings degrade to compost much faster than a brush hog.

The flail mower will chew down saplings with much less work as the hammer knives will attack every exposed inch of the sapling to grind it down to the

ground.

Mowing in the rain will not be an issue due to the flail mowers ease of operation as the mower housing is simply used to control the rearward flow of the

cuttings and not employed to create an air stream suction as some finish mowers.

A flail mower with hammer knives wil not scalp as the rear roller is used to support the mower frame and act as the depth gauge for the cut.

An anti scalping front roller can be ordered to aid in depth control and in finish mowing.

The flail mowers offered today by Kubota are built by Land Pride but there are many other maufacturers of flail mowers as well.

The more knives the easier the cutting and more cutting surface per foot of width, and requires less horsepower per foot because of the efficient

transmission of mechaincal energy to the flail mowers rotor which becomes a huge balanced flywheel with belt drive.


A flail mower or brush hog should have a slip clutch shaft assembly properly sized in length to prevent damage from lifting the mower and bending the PTO

shaft and possibly damaging the seal and bearings of the rear PTO shaft exiting the transaxle of the tractor


In a previous posting I mention the Italian made Caroni flail mower and distributed by Agris supply from the Carolinas , they have a listed price for thier line

of flail mowers to your door every month in their sales flyers.


Flail mowers can have two rows of knives or four rows of knives; the flail mowers with four rows of knives cut finer and with less effort and power required

by the tractor due to the flail motors rotor where the knives are atached to the swivel connectors


The flail mowers individual grass or hammer knives are much easier to change and are designed to allow them to be free swiveling to allow them to avoid

being damaged if they strike a solid object as the hangers swivel backward in the event of striking and object.

The flail mower will allow you to cut the tall dead brush you dont get to if the snow is not to deep as well.


Your pocket book is going to be your guide and and the tractor on the lot may not have a pressurised cabin (unless it is the M8540 which would be a

necessity in your case unless you look at an another manufacturers models.


The smaller BX tractors and B3030 will allow you to mount a snow blower front and rear if needed and in most years its a necessity anyway.


I like the Pronovost line of snow blowers as there is no comparison in quality as I have seen them up close and they are built for canadian winters and you

would not need a six month waiting period to get them off season or in season due to RAD making implements for many tractor lines and a rear snow

blower uses less power than a front mounted blower and you would want a cabin for a rear or front mounted blower anyway.


The other problem with buying a tractor off the lot is sealing surfaces as many posters are unhappy with their cabins, floors, and roof, due to noise and

fumes and in your case many allergens unless you purchase an M8540 off the lot which is pressurised and filtered, or order a tractor with a pressurised

cabin option, which is done and easily done for most models using the Eclipse model Laurin Cabin.



Please be advised I have relegated my asbestos underwear to the winter clothes bin and request/require advance warning to obtain my tub of Nozema skin cream.

leonz
 
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   / Help #5  
leonz,

Don't know why you think you will be flamed, differing opinions only adds to the knowledge base.
 
   / Help #6  
Thank you triple R I will refrain from discussing flaming from now on :thumbsup:
 

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