Help With WorkTrak 404 29.4KW engine

[Hickory Creek]

Thanks Affordable.

 

[greg_g]

The SL3105 Engine is a direct injection engine, not a swirl chamber so there are no Glow plugs,

I have to take your word on later ones, but the the SL3105BT I just worked on (stamped "1998") I just worked on has them. And back on Feb 23rd, the OP identified his as a 1998. Plus there was early mention of a glow plug indicator on the instrument panel. Just going by what I read.

//greg//

 

[McGeesEquip]

Hickory,

Those tractors for many of them had no glow plugs. Some of the last ones we got in had a heat coil in the intake system, but that was it.

You do not need to be wasting time trying to get the year date on the tractor to get a manual because that would be a waste of money and the information in the manual does not give any electrical tech information worth anything and for most parts would not actually match the tractor.

Those tractors had a black electrical relay box that was either located "behind" the fuse box panel (not in the fuse box panel) on the side, or under the dash instrument cluster. This relay would click on every time the key was cut on. "It is not a glow plug relay. The relay was usually install on the bolts that held the fuse box panel to the dash covering, or it was on the bolts that held the dash cluster to the dash panel. There is 2 wire plugs that plugged into the black relay. I forgot the relay number.

don't waste your money on a new battery under 1000 cold cranking amps. It sounds like you will probably be needing another starter and if you get a battery under 1000 CC you will be buying another stater sooner. You will need to remove the dash cover bolts on the fuse box side to get behind the fuse box.

 

[Hickory Creek]

I found compression release lever or where it should be.

,
I think this relay may be part of my no crank problem. It was hanging out just like you see it. Not sure what it is for. It does not tick on any key position switch.

, For those who have not read entire post, this is the engine.

Now, I am going to bleed the lines on this three cylilnder. Are there any special points I need to use or just follow lines downstream and back off nuts fitting, etc at each point until I get to the last injector? I want to get this thing running, as it has work to do. Shows 137 hours on hour meter. Can confirm no glow plugs or induction heater.

Would appreciate any good sequence of steps to start it. I have in mind to crank without compression and then while cranking, apply compression. I'm all ears for any help.

 

[greg_g]

If the other end of that linkage goes to the back side of the valve cover, it is indeed the compression release.

Looks like three conductors, I'd say flasher relay

Bleed low pressure side first. Find rubber hose between filter and pump, loosen at pump end. Unscrew hand primer and pump until raw fuel comes out loosened hose. Tighten hose. Now bleed high pressure (steel) lines. Use line wrench to loosen hex collar where each line connects to its respective injector (top end of each line). Crank engine. Air bubbles will come out around each hex collar at first. Tighten each collar as bubbles turn to raw fuel. System is now primed and bled.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

The black electrical box looks like the starter relay, see if you can read any of the numbers on the side of it

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Hickory Creek]

Greg and Affordable, Thanks. The linkage goes to the rear of valve cover and works something there. The relay connector is "L" shaped and has 2 prongs for each "L" part, as I remember.
Thanks for the bleed advice. Any advice on starting?

 

[greg_g]

The engine is direct injection, so starting pains should be somewhat alleviated despite no pre-heating. But consistent with your intentions, the compression release is important. Besides the obvious wear and tear saved on the battery and starter, it allows oil pressure to develop before actual combustion. I'd pull my compression release, key the starter, watch the oil pressure gauge. When I saw the needle start to rise, then I'd let go of the compression release.

//greg//

 

[Hickory Creek]

Thanks Greg, I probably need a new starter, as noted in a previous post I said the engine turned over slower than I thought it should. From what I have been able to access from previous owner, they always started it under compression as they acquired it without decompress lever and did not know better.

To everyone who has helped, Thank you.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Fortunately, the compression release isn't a complicated mechanism. You should be able to pull the valve cover and determine easily what you need to fabricate in order to have a working compression release, if you can't order the missing parts from Tommy. As long as the components inside the valve cover are all there, the rest is just linkage and perhaps a return spring - not too tough to suss out what is needed to activate it.

 

[greg_g]

Thanks Greg, I probably need a new starter, as noted in a previous post I said the engine turned over slower than I thought it should.

Don't write off the starter until you do two things: take the battery to an auto parts store for load testing (it might be weak). Also, the starter will spin the engine MUCH faster with the compression release open.

I think you might only need a pull knob on that compression release cable, and I'm pretty sure I have one in my spares. Same with the starter, the one I have here might possibly fit your tractor.

//greg//

 

[DieselMonk]

Pull that compression release and keep it pulled, hit the starter key and let her spin up, then push the compression release back in. You also can tow the tractor with something and dump the cluth. Drag it around until she fires.

I wonder if she cranks over that slow because the PTO is in gear and implement on the back?

 

[Rich Waugh]

One thing that will surely make a tractor crank hard is having the hydraulic pump deadheading. I've seen a number of times where guys have taken a loader off and neglected to hook the two hoses from the pump together, thus deadheading the pump. Then the tractor won't start because it can't turn over against the back pressure of the pump. Or it does start, and then blows up the hydraulic pump. Something to keep in mind...

 

[Hickory Creek]

IT RUNS !!! Thanks to all. It even ran on its own with compression release engauged.

When compression added, it sounded like a bad connecting rod. Once rpm added it sounded fine. Do these 3 cylinder engines sound that way at idle?

Oil has never been changed. We are talking 6-8 years. Dipstick has a 15* bend about an inch from end. Is this how they are? Oil just barely at end of dipstick.

What weight, and how much does this engine take. Also a filter number would help.

Still will not crank from key. Attached are some more pictures of relay. Maybe it is a starter relay. Found an old one, RED, in a pile of junk. See attached.

Thanks guys, I am one happy camper. It drove a lot better than I thought it would.

 

[DieselMonk]

Congrats on starting your new friend. Now you know she works, I think it is service time to replace all fluids and filters and some fresh grease.

My 1030 is a 3 cylinder and it doesn't sound much different than all my other ones, besides it reves higher at idle. I may have been the lack of oil in certain parts of the engine, because it was sitting so long with not enough old oil and the head of the engine being dry.

As engine oil you'd have to make sure it is rated for diesel. Depending where you live, if you want to use it for winter, I suggest you use 15W40, 10w40 or 5W40. I use Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 in all my newer engines. Just my old Case Terra Track gets Shell Rotella 15W40. I can't get 10W40 Diesel oil even if I wanted to. So 5W40 Mobil 1Turbo diesel at Walmart it is.

Not sure how much the engine takes, but I suspect around 4L since it has 3 cyl. Measue what you take out plus add one liter. Filter numbers should be printed on the existing filters. You should have a fuel, a oil, and a hydraulic oil filter.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Glad you got it running! Definitely time to change the oil, and I'd suggest flushing the crankcase with a dose of diesel fuel after you drain out what's in there. Just put in a gallon of diesel fuel and run it for about 30 second then shut down and drain it again. Then replace the filter and refill with fresh brand name 15W40 diesel motor oil. Take the old filter to a parts store and get a match, or contact one of the suppliers who advertises here and get an OEM filter. It will prob ably take somewhere between six and ten quarts of oil. My 304 Jinma takes seven quarts if I remember correctly.

That does look like it might be a starter relay. Any 12v relay with contacts rated for twenty amps or better will work. Most auto parts stores carry a number of different universal relays.

 

[greg_g]

IT RUNS !!! Thanks to all. It even ran on its own with compression release engauged.

When compression added, it sounded like a bad connecting rod. Once rpm added it sounded fine. Do these 3 cylinder engines sound that way at idle?

That's not right. When the compression release is adjusted correctly and operating properly, the engine should not start until you release it. As previously suggested, you may have restricted hydraulic flow too. That noise could be the pump self-destructing. I'd remove the pump, and try again. If that doesn't change anything, we'll re-evaluate.

I think you've got the 2.9 liter engine, so the oil capacity is probably more like 7.4 quarts (plus filter). Sounds like the handle end of the dipstick broke off. That will definitely throw off the measurement. And yup, that's a starter relay. But unless/until you get the compression release working properly, I don't recommend a starter relay less than 30A (and 10ga wire).

//greg//