Help With WorkTrak 404 29.4KW engine

[Hickory Creek]

There are over 134pages on Chinese Tractors. Can someone tell me how to insert a question that will take me to the correct previous asked question page on this site?

Inherited a WT404 no manual or any idea how to start. No tractor or desiel experience. Tried cranking it. new battery, turns over slowly but no luck. Had to junp starter solonoid like my old car of 50 years ago.

Have read on this forum that a WT is same as a Jimna Chinese Tractor.
If so, can anyone tell me what model Jimna so I can request a wiring diagram.

Not sure how to tell if glow plugs work. Did have an old 5kw Onan desiel generator that has glow plug element so I know I should preheat for about 20 seconds. Light will come on on insturment cluster, but never goes out.
Starter sounds very slow.

Recovering from heart trouble so perfect project to give heart a free stress test.

Only numbers I can find on motor are and they are not clear :

29.4kw 2200rpm
XK06-205-00231
SL310581 Like I said, not sure if all numbers ae correct as hard to see.

Thanks

 

[greg_g]

WorkTraks are/were sold in your area by
McGee Farm Equipment
2119 Highway 49 South
Florence, Mississippi 39073
Telephone: 1-601-664-2004

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

The engine is a SL3105 by Futian Lilja, we have the manual for it.If you can send me a pic of your tractor I can confirm if it's a Foton or a Jinma, the engine is a direct injection and as long as they have fuel start very easy.If it's been sitting a long time there is a primer pump on the injector pump,unscrew it and pump it about 20- times then try to start it

You can e-mail pics to tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

29.4kw 2200rpm
XK06-205-00231
SL310581

Usually those numbers are stamped onto a black aluminum plate, and the stamped impressions subsequently get filled with dirt. That results in trying to read black on black. Try a little WD40 on the plate, the numbers may become more legible.

Based upon what you've posted so far, I'll read between the lines and say your WT404 is a rebadged Foton 404 (FT404), but McGees can confirm this for you. The power rating in KW translates to 39.42 horsepower @2200 RPM. This is likely coincident with the PTO operating revs indicated by a green mark on the tachometer. WOT will likely be closer to 2400 RPM. The 00231 is likely the engine serial number, and the 205 in front of it might actually be a 2005 (indicating year of manufacture). If true, that makes it a pre-EPA engine. That's important when it comes to ordering the engine manuals; as there's an EPA book, and a pre-EPA book. And I'm pretty sure the last two numbers in the last line are BT, making the engine model a 40hp SL3105BT. The Jinmas I've seen use the 45hp ABT version of that engine (same bore, longer stroke).

And don't be surprised if the engine and tractor are not stamped with the same year. I'm helping a FT404 owner now; his engine plate says 1998, but the tractor plate says 2004. So look for your tractor plate too. It's typically located either on the inside of a rear fender, or on (perhaps alongside) the transmission housing.

If you can confirm any/all of the above, it will make it easier to pursue troubleshooting of the other issues you mentioned.

//greg//

 

[TTTTTT]

One of the main things I discovered (and even says it in the manual) when starting in the cold is open the manual throttle about 50% to get a good fuel flow (before the injection pump it is gravity feed from the tank). A couple of 20-30 sec. glowplug preheats and usually fires right up. As it warms up you can back the throttle off as needed. On the really cold days (below -20C.) I plug the blocker heater in for a few hours.

Hope it helps and enjoy the new rig.

Cheers Dave

 

[Hickory Creek]

To all those who have answered my questions so far...THANK YOU.

1998 was stamped on the platte also.
A picture will be coming, I have one somewhere. Tractor currently away from my location.
HOW DO YOU PREHEAT? I turned the key until the glow lamp indicator light came on on cluster. It never went out, no matter how long I held the key in the lamp on position. Ignition switch will not send 12v to starter solonoid when turned to full right position, so I had to screwdriver jump solonoid.

I think between all of you we can get this animal blowing black smoke. Thank you. Will keep you posted. My heart has really been out of rhythm these past few days so I am trying to remain calm.

 

[Hickory Creek]

Well, here goes, a picture may or may not show up

 

[Rich Waugh]

On my Chinese Jinma 304 the key switch has five positions:
1. - start w/o gauges or accessories on - turn key to left (spring return)
2. - OFF
3. - Accessories ON
4. - Pre-heat - spring return to position 3
5. - Start - spring return to position 3

The light on the dash is probably just a light to tell you that the accessory position is active, rather than a glow plug indicator. Mine doesn't have this feature.

These Chinese ignition switches are known for being less than really robust. The standard fix is to replace with the Ford "cold-start" switch available from auto supply places. You'll need to use a multimeter to check your current switch to verify which lugs do which function and swap the wires to the appropriate lugs on the new switch. (I've had the new switch for a year now and keep on jumping mine with a screwdriver - I never need glow plugs here in the tropics.

You very likely may not have functioning glow plugs for one of two reasons. They may be shot and need replacing, or they may never have been hooked up at the dealer. You can test them with a multimeter and trace the wiring from them to the switch. They work better if you install a 12v accessory relay in the circuit so the key switch ois only handling a half amp of relay coil load instead of 30 amps of glow plugs. The relay contacts will handle the heavy load and you can wire them with heavier 12 gauge wire so they get full power from the battery that way.

 

[greg_g]

HOW DO YOU PREHEAT? I turned the key until the glow lamp indicator light came on on cluster. It never went out, no matter how long I held the key in the lamp on position. Ignition switch will not send 12v to starter solonoid when turned to full right position, so I had to screwdriver jump solonoid..

There is no glow plug timer, that's why the indicator stays lit as long as you hold down the button. I used the ammeter as a visual timer. When GPs first energize cold, they pulled about 26-28 amps. But resistance changes with temperature, meaning they pull fewer amps as they heat up. When the ammeter got down into the 12-13 amp range, I hit START.

First thing to check when the key won't engage the starter solenoid is the clutch interlock switch. It's typically under the left floorboard.

//greg//

 

[btr568]

Hickory...where in Ms are you?

 

[Hickory Creek]

Hattiesburg actually. However property is about 17 miles North of Wiggins.

Are you in Mississsippi or close by?

I will be going down to try a start up this weekend, as I am feeling better. After some reaearch, I think I may need to bleed the lines. On top of that, I think I may need an new battery as the tractor does not seem to turn over very fast. Also having to jump start at solonoid just adds to aggravation.

Will be getting year off of tractor body so I can order the manuals this coming week.

 

[btr568]

I live in Lucedale.....what day you going ??? If I can get shuck loose from da little woman,I could ride over and see if Maybe we can gett"er to fire off right.601-947-6631 my name is Nathan

 

[McGeesEquip]

If you installed a new battery and the unit is still turning over slowly, then you may have an issue with the starter. Since this unit has been setting up for a while more likly there may be a lot of rust in the starter housing unit. There is a decompression lever on the dash panel that you can turn to decompress the engine to help get the engine turning over when you try starting the unit. Try decompressing the engine while you start with the key to try to get the engine turning over more quickly. While decompressing the engine, and turning the engine over with the key see if the engine will turn over more quickly. While the engine is turning over more quickly flip the decompression lever back to the normal position.

It sounds like you have a bad starter, but the starter may can be broken down and clean and the rust removed from the starter housing.

 

[greg_g]

I may need an new battery as the tractor does not seem to turn over very fast.

Are you using the compression release prior to starting?

//greg//

 

[Hickory Creek]

Greg an McGees, Three questions.

1. I think this is a 2000-2005 tractor. Where is the year model plaque located on tractor. I found engine plaque, but need to know year of tractor. I looked under rear fenders and on what of transmission I could see. Manufacturer did a good job of hiding transmission under frame. Where exactly do I need to get a flashlight and look?

2. Where on dash panel is the decompression lever located, what does it look like? This would be a big help if I have to bleed fuel lines like I think I need to do.

3. If I put an old push button starter button on dash to solonoid, what amperage does the solonoid rerquire to engauge properly. Currently using a screwdriver to jump starter solonoid to crank engine.

Thanks to all.

 

[greg_g]

1. Could have fallen off. Every Chinese tractor ID tag I've ever seen was on a visible surface; typically inside one of the rear fenders (as seen from the operator seat), or alongside the transmission housing (above floorboard level). Very little you can tell without it, as the engine and tranny in pre-EPA tractors are not necessarily of the same vintage.

2. Don't know that tractor specifically, but - when so equipped - it's always accessible from the operator seat. On my Jinmas it was a lever down and to the left from the steering wheel. Turning it 90 degrees would open the compression release, letting go would automatically close it. On my Kama, it was a choke pull arrangement, also below the level of the steering wheel. Pull to open, release to automatically close. On my TaiShan, the engine was compression release equipped, but there wasn't enough room between the valve cover and the fuel tank for the linkage. So I had to start that one without the benefit of compression release. When in doubt, find the linkage at the back of the valve cover, then trace the cable back to the operator position.

3. Forget the push button, install a starter relay; maybe $15 or so at most auto parts stores. The old fashioned Ford type with 10ga primary wire is all you need: 10ga from battery to relay, 10ga from relay to starter solenoid. Then just move the tractor starter wire from the solenoid to the relay. I got two big spiral type hose clamps and strapped the relay right to the starter housing on my TaiShan. And because that was the tractor without compression release, I added a second identical relay to the glow plug circuit.

//greg//

 

[Hickory Creek]

Greg, Thanks, I just happen to have a NIB old Ford relay laying around from my 62 Falocn of years ago. Still, my problem is no juice from crank position on key to wire on starter solonoid. Have no idea out of the 5 points on the back of starter switch which does what. Have not taken time to troubleshoot each one. That is why I need to get manuals.

Where are the glow plugs? I use to have an old generator that had a resistance coil in air intake that would get good and hot. Looked all over breather section and found no wiring on this thing.

Also, someone told me that these tractors had 2 - 6volt batteries, guess they were in series, as this thing has a 12 volt rated at 625CCA but it is 3 years old. Charged it up just yesterday when I was at farm. It does turn the engine over, but not as fast as I think it should.

On ID plate, I was looking inside fender well and under body itself on transmission. No brains enough to look in obvious place like up top around seat area.

I will find the compression release thanks to your help.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What group is that battery? Seems small. I run a group 31 in my Jimna 284.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Glow plugs, not manifold heater. If you have the SL3105 engine, they'll look like 3 skinny spark plugs sticking outa the side of the upper cylinder head. Pretty sure it's a swirl chamber engine, so there'll be one close to each injector.

That battery is too small. Should be minimum 750CCA, more if there's not compression release.

Can't help you on the switch posts, you'll have to work that out with an ohm-meter Find one with continuity to the clutch interlock switch under the left floorboard. That's the starter wire.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

The SL3105 Engine is a direct injection engine, not a swirl chamber so there are no Glow plugs,there should be a decompression lever.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company