Tire Selection Help with understanding and selecting new tires.

[Learning to Farm]

Tractordata.com list (L3750 4wd) fronts 7.2x16 and rears 11.2x24 .I would change them all.Buy U.S.A made tires and not Chinese ******.

Slightly confused, the tires on now are fronts 9.5 -16 and rears 14.9 - 24. Not sure what the number mean. Looking up now, the second number is the same for both.

 

[nybirdman]

Slightly confused, the tires on now are fronts 9.5 -16 and rears 14.9 - 24. Not sure what the number mean. Looking up now, the second number is the same for both.

It means width and rim size.Some one has obviously changed your tires at some point.Again check at
TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors for info on your tractor or call a Kubota dealer.

 

[Learning to Farm]

It means width and rim size.Some one has obviously changed your tires at some point.Again check at
TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors for info on your tractor or call a Kubota dealer.

So this is the screen shot for the tire options. Both the tires on the tractor are listed, I have found a "tire guy" just have to track him down.

 

[Learning to Farm]

Well quick update. So this happened.

Came out and the valve stem and a small chunk of the tube was laying on the ground next to the left front. Was not the way I thought the tire would go. However the 'good' to come out of it is that I would have never thought to order tubes. Oh the things I am learning.

 

[jeff9366]

I just encountered your second thread on tractor tires. You will get better information maintaining a single thread rather than multiples threads on the same topic. I would have placed the second thread in the KUBOTA OWNING/OPERATING FORUM, rather than the TIRE FORUM.

R1/ag tires have the advantage of casting off manure. R4/industrial tires hold manure in the tread.

If you will operate on public roads, R4/industrial tires vibrate much less than R1/ag tires and have a greater tire area on the road surface contributing friction in an emergency stop.

It is significantly harder to brake a tractor with filled rear tires in an emergency situation on public roads, regardless of tire type. The liquid is spinning, inertia which must be overcome to stop tractor.

Kubota sells tires and has good prices, in my experience. Tires are something Kubota does not price up to to the point owners avoid buying from the dealer.

If you have 4-WD, wheel rims and tires front and back must be proportionally dimensioned for your 4-WD to function properly. If you decide to replace a rim, I would check with a competent Kubota dealer to ensure sizes on tractor now are spec.

THIS THREAD says you have an FEL. No need to fill front tires in that case. Loader is ample front weight. If you have an occasion when the front feels light, which I have never experienced, pick up a load of dirt in the bucket for extra weight.



I lived in Laurel, Maryland for fourteen years. Retired to Florida.

 

[Marvelor]

I have found some individuals who are selling tires out there online. But I'm not sure if they are all reliable.

 

[bspeedy]

Find a good local tire shop. Buy your tires from them. Develop a relationship with them. You will need tires, tire repairs, tubes, etc - from them as you go. A good local tire shop is more important to me than a good tractor dealer.

 

[ericm979]

At least for car and truck tires my local tire shop can do as well as on line- unless Tire Rack has a sale on the tires I want they can match their price (including shipping). They also fix my flats for free, even on tractor tires small enough for me to bring them in.

 

[arrow]

For the way you described how you are using your tractor, I feel the R4's's are your best bet. You'll only need tubes if you are going to fill them with calcium. In your case, a simple ballast box when you need traction will probably do you rather than filled tires. If you have side hills when mowing, fill tires with RimGuard. You won't need tubes for that stuff as it is non corrosive.

 

[clemsonfor]

I wouldn't replace those rears. They look like they have years left based on your use maybe decade or more? I would do the fronts first. But even then unless your in a lot of muck and need deep tread I personally would not change them like right now.