help with toothbar

[gerard]

Got my toothbar from Carver. Guess you can also buy the individual teeth, mounting bar and do the welding yourself. Now I like welding but the cost savings would have been so slight by the time you factored in my time and rod cost I probably would have been "working" for about $3 per hour, something I try not to do!!! Bar is strong, well made, and well worth the money for all the reasons mentioned in previous posts.

 

[chim]

Here's some info I posted a while back after making the "homebrew" toothbar in the attached picture. The tooth bases mount on a piece of flat stock. I welded two pieces of flat stock together into a sharp V-shape that slips over the bucket's cutting edge. :

The teeth on mine are almost parallel with the bottom of the bucket. They are slightly lower than the cutting edge. The sketch in my previous post is fairly close to how it looks. Works fine. The only operations I've had better luck without the bar is scooping up crushed stone. It works best for me to remove the bar so the factory cutting edge slips under the edge of the pile.

Stopped at Binkley & Hurst this AM and got the following info:

Weld-on bases for teeth = 12L6DW-8-2A-H..........$9.95/ea
Replaceable teeth for above = T41166................$3.08/ea
Roll Pin = 38-32028...........................................$0.79/ea

The bases listed above are already drilled for the roll pins, but the larger ones I saw were not. The roll pins on mine fit very tight. You'd best assemble the base/tooth/pin before welding. You really need to smack the beejiminy out of them to get the roll pin in. As another poster noted, it would be a job to work between the teeth with a hammer. Good luck, let us know how it goes. Any? just ask...............chim

 

[B7500]

"Why is a toothbar so useful? What can be done with a toothbar that a loader can't do without one? "

I use mine to haul around logs. It gives your bucket the added Leverage.
-Terry