Help Size My Bush Hog For My Kioti

[IslandTractor]

Wow, thanks for taking the time covering the basics. Like you said it probably isn't as complicated as it sounds. Can you not oil the slip clutch to prevent it from rusting or freezing? Concerning the weight of the rotary cutter, does this factor in with the equation for tractor PTO hp vs. implement size? Does the gearbox hp on the bush hog make any difference in cutting power?

Also, do you guys do any maintenance on the blades or just replace them ever so often?

Sorry for having so many questions. I am still green when it comes to tractors.

Oiling a clutch probably defeats the purpose of having a friction connection between drive and gearbox. It is a good question though and I've often wondered why nobody has designed a slip clutch that doesn't stick/rust together. What are all those guys who used to work at NASA doing these days?

Gearbox rating is just so you don't try to run a small mower with a huge engine and destroy the gears. So long as your engine output is below the rating of the gearbox it doesn't make any difference.

Blade maintenance: I don't do anything because I bush hog to control brush and I don't care about the look of the cut. Some guys keep an edge on the blades to make them cut cleanly. I figure the vegital matter is going to die and it doesn't much matter whether there is a nice surgical death or if it just gets mashed with a blunt instrument.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd select the best deal and warranty on the gearbox from one of the mentioned brands and go cut down what you need to cut. Most important, IMHO, is make sure the slip clutch can do its job or you risk blowing up your rear diff when you hit the big rock and the shaft transfers the torque force back to your tractor.
I have an Xtreme Brushbull 72, new last season from Woods, and its killer on whatever I challenge my DK-40 with, once properly adjusted to height with the rear wheel and other leveling settings. I think this model would be excellent for your tractor.
I mistakenly thought that the Xtreme unit was a HD unit- sure looked like it to me, but was clued in by guys here that its a medium duty unit. Works great for what I use it for.

 

[LD1]

Have you browsed the craigslist in your area. Bushhogs usually are pretty affordable. No way I'd spend $2k on a new one, but I know many do.

Nothing wrong with the KK or counrtyline too. For what you want, it may be rough the first year to get your pasture back in order, but after that, as long as you keep up with it (mow once or twice a year), you should get YEARS of good service out of a KK that costs 1/3 of what a woods or rhino would.

On a side note (and I never mention this usually), I have TWO bushhog brand bushhogs. A model 105 and a 306. Both old. Mid 1980's vintage, They dont have a slip clutch OR a shearbolt. Instead, the input shaft of the gearbox is splined, and does have a bolt, but that is only to hold the shaft on. I have not had any issues thus far (not saying I wont), but why would these older cutters not have a shear bolt or a slip-clutch?? Is that just how it was back when??

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think you will find that that bolt that holds the shaft one is a shear bolt. IS it just one bolt? If so Im sure it is a shear bolt
I have a light weight Howse that weighs about 600#(still with original shear pin)with a heavy duty gear box (80HP)but light weigh frame that I have cut 3" saplings with and stalled down my 45 PTO HP tractor and never sheared the pin. I also have a rebuilt 7 foot 306 Bushhog (120 HP gear box) with 1/4" thick deck with slip clutch that I bought last year but havent got to use it much. First time I used it, I got the slip clutch adjusted and working fine the afer mowing a while I looked behind me and it was smoking the clutch. I guess it got hot or something and started slipping. I had to stop and adjust it, in the hot sun by the way. I suppose it depends on the mower, tractor and operator. MY BIL shears pins like crazy on his Fred Cain BH. If he forgets to throttle down prior to pushing the PTO button, it shears everytime. He has to be at idle to keep it from shearing with the NH 2030 he has. It has no clutch so you cant feather it in when it starts it is immediate. Not a good tractor design IMO.
The old Howse has dents and rounded out side on the left from hitting rocks but it still mows good. One day I may cut out the thin metal on the side and beef it up a bit using 6" channel frame all the way around it but as long as it works, I guess I will continue to use it. Howse does make several different grades of mower with varying deck thicknesses. Most mowers rust thru in the deck and do not wear out the gear boxes so a thicker deck is preferable for longer life but not necessarily need to have the 1/4" for use on a small tractor. I have the 306 on a 70 HP tractor which handles its 1500# weight well.

 

[LD1]

I think you will find that that bolt that holds the shaft one is a shear bolt. IS it just one bolt? If so Im sure it is a shear bolt

Its just a bolt as far as I am concerned. It may be a grade 2, but it wouldnt matter if it were a grade 20 million:laughing:, the shaft is splined, and the yoke is splined. All the bolt does is hold the two together from seperating. Linda like the way the slider pin holds the yoke on the PTO of the tractor. There is no way for the bolt to shear unless ALL of the splines strip out.

. I have the 306 on a 70 HP tractor which handles its 1500# weight well.

You must think I am nuts then running a 6' 306 on my little L3400

 

[IslandTractor]

Have you browsed the craigslist in your area. Bushhogs usually are pretty affordable. No way I'd spend $2k on a new one, but I know many do.

My Woods BrushBull 600 was sourced from CL for exactly that reason. I found a barely used five foot model for well less than half of what a new six footer would cost. As I do routine mowing with a six foot flail, having a five foot bush hog for heavy brush work is no problem.

 

[gkh7890]

Great info here!

I have a Woods Brush Bull 72, curtousy of my FIL! A nephew had busted the side out....about 8 inches or so along the left bottom and then 1 day my FIL noticed smoke from the clutch area. So, he decided to get a new unit now that the 40 acres had all been mowed and the hazards found.

He offered me the old one knowing that I could use it and could fix it if anything was seriously wrong with it. The gap in the left side leaves a wind row of cut grass there now!!:laughing: I do need to weld in a patch panel to fix it.

Honestly, I've not done anything to it....oops, I did replace the tail wheel fork and put a new, thicker walled spindle housing on it. But I have not done anything to the slipclutch yet. I have sharpened the blades as I use it to finish mow my yard. Well, I'll add slip clutch maintenance to my tractor tinkering list now.

 

[boomer613]

Just an update. I bought a used TW72 Rhino last week. I believe the Rhino 272 replaced it in 2008. Paid $750 for it which seems like a fair deal. Not pretty but the but it is in good shape. The gearbox is rated at 110 HP and requires a min of 40 HP at the PTO. My kioti has a 34 PTO but seemed to handle well cutting saplings 1-2" thick. I drive slow in low/4th gear at 540 RPM. Just curious if anyone believes this will be too harse on my tractor?

 

[LD1]

I think you will be just fine. I have a 306 bushhog w/90hp gearbox on a much smaller kubota L3400

 

[boomer613]

I think you will be just fine. I have a 306 bushhog w/90hp gearbox on a much smaller kubota L3400

Thanks LD1 - I was just concerned if I could burn out my clutch PTO. From my understanding, if I drive it slow and cut saplings within limits, I should be fine - considering I have my slipclutch properly adjusted.