Help !! no start

[drew64a]

Hi I have a Farm Pro 2425 3 cyl diesel, we picked it up used and it had alot of noise and exhaust thru the intake, we pulled the head, done the valves and new head gasket, put it all back together, adjusted valves, and we can not get it to start, I open fuel lines at injectors and fuel sprays out, it trys to start but won't. what am i missing or doing wrong ???? HELP Andy

 

[Diamondpilot]

Did you pull the injector pump or the drive gear to it? If so you have the pump out of time. If not I am at a loss unless you have the valves set wrong. Do you have the compression release adjusted properly? You may have it so its holding the valves open.

Sounds like you are getting fuel and its cranking over good.

Chris

 

[Rich Waugh]

It's pretty easy to get the compression release actuator in the wrong position so it holds the valves just barely open when you bolt the valve cover back down. I'd check that out first if you haven't removed the injector pump. This is provided that the camshaft timing hasn't been inadvertently changed, though you wouldn't have to pull the cam to do a valve job.

Rich

 

[Jinma284]

Would a shot of ether help to start it for the first time?

 

[greg_g]

Would a shot of ether help to start it for the first time?

Bad idea for beginners. If you don't know what you're doing with starting fluid of any kind, potentially serious and expensive engine repairs can result.

//greg/

 

[Red55]

Would a shot of ether help to start it for the first time?

someone else said it;

"Ether is like crack to a diesel engine. . . "

 

[Affordable]

Sounds like you still have some air in the fuel system,while you are spinning the engine over crack the line loose on the top of the first injector,see if air bubbles come out.You may have to do this on all 3- injectors.

Doing a head gasket would not of affected the timing just the fuel system


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Bob Rooks]

Would a shot of ether help to start it for the first time?

DON'T EVER USE IT!!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Where did Andy go????

Chris

 

[Jinma284]

We had the compression checked in all three cylinders today and it looks like a ring job will be necessary. Back to front we had 150, 300 and 650. This is the same tractor that we were having clutch problems with. We will get back to that as soon as we get it running again.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

We had the compression checked in all three cylinders today and it looks like a ring job will be necessary. Back to front we had 150, 300 and 650. This is the same tractor that we were having clutch problems with. We will get back to that as soon as we get it running again.

Pat

Just out of curiosity which end of the intake manifold has the air cleaner?
My bet is on the rear (#3) end. Anyone ever change the filter?

 

[SPIKER]

also may not be rings, could be valves and or head gaskets. compression test only tells you there is a loss someplace. rings are often the lest likely items and still have some compression during the test. Valve leaking or miss adjusted will lower the compression as they stay open longer or closed too long to get correct volume in the cyl.

mark

 

[Bob Rooks]

To find out if it's the rings or valves (either way the head gasket will be replaced), shoot a teaspoon full of engine oil into the combustion chambers and retake the test. If it is the valves then there will be little difference in the numbers, if it's the rings there will be a noticeable overall increase in compression. But since you already have a cylinder at the high end of the spectrum and getting progressively worse on down the line, I will discount the valves. You may have broken rings in #1 cylinder.
Another test is leak-down test, and yet another test is to take firing pressures, both of which require special adapters.

 

[Jinma284]

We just had the head redone. Also put in a new air cleaner changed oil, all new hoses, new radiator new thermostat and new belt. Redid the injectors, new glow plugs.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

Also put in a new air cleaner...

I think you're a little late on that. I speculate that the damage is already done, unfortunately. A lot of people don't realize how important an air cleaner really is, unfortunately.
After seeing those compression readings it's understandable why it is hard to start. The previous owner should be taken behind the barn and have the importance of clean air explained to him. :laughing:

 

[Bob Rooks]

We had the compression checked in all three cylinders today and it looks like a ring job will be necessary.

I would throw in a set of liners too (I'm sure you will need at least one), and maybe a piston too if the ring lands are wiped out on #3. While you're in there digging around you may as well mic the crank throws and Plastigageï® the bearings. A dirty air filter can do an awful lot of damage.:ashamed:

 

[Jinma284]

Thanks Bob, we will make sure its right before we put it back together. Gotta tear it down this weekend. The previous owner is deceased. He did abuse the tractor, but he loaned it out to someone who abused it worse than he did. He was planning a law suit when he died. I got it worth the money. Didn't want to spend money on a lot of parts but will still be ahead if I have to. When I get the motor back together this time it will be right.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

Good to hear Pat. Kindly keep us updated so others may benefit. :thumbsup:

 

[Jinma284]

First lets just say that anyone who looked at the parts as we removed them would very quickly understand the importance of timely service. Clean oil, clean filters, clean air flow to the radiator. We had just changed the oil and it was very dirty when we empted it. When the oil pan was removed it was almost full of sludge. Then we removed the pistons. The one with 650 lbs pressure was dirty but all rings were free. The one with 300 only had 1 ring free the rest were totally frozen. The piston with 150 had all rings frozen. Looked like it had over heat.

After we put in new pistons, rods, bearings, sleeves and gaskets I will run kerosene in it a few minutes to finish cleaning it out and then drain and refill with Rotella 15-40.

Any other suggestions that anyone has will be welcome.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

DO NOT RUN KEROSENE TO FLUSH THE ENGINE - PLEASE!
Because you stand a very good chance of a runaway engine. Use a conventional flushing oil available at most auto supply houses.