Help Needed ASAP, Ford 1310 4 WD, Front Drive Issue

Fitz_VA · Feb 13, 2014

Hi Folks,

Well, I am in need of some guidance. We are in the snow here today, maybe 21" right now where I am. I was working it and I lost my 4 WD and realized that the main plate behind the front pumkin broke from the welds. I was not doing anything major at the time. I nursed it into the shop and unbolted the heavy plate, 1" thick or so. Unfortunately the loss of the plate drove the driveshaft system into the oil pan, a decent dent. I cleaned the welds, and tacked it all back on. At least it is in the correct geometry, shaft support, and front axle position at this point. I will get a heavier welding unit in the morning to make it correct.

As you may imagine, during the failure something has broken or sheared in the 4 wd system. I do not have a manual, looking for an electronic version to buy online right now. The front wheels turn fine, gears in the pumkin sound fine, I just see, feel, hear no movement in the driveshaft. I do not want to shift it into 4 wd to test that either. If anyone can give me some input I would appreciate it. Given the conditions and need, it would be great if someone could give me a call.

Thanks,
Jim Fitz-Gerald
434.831.3005

Fitz_VA · Feb 13, 2014

Anyone?

From what I can see and read here, it looks like it could be the front coupling. Any suggestions for a trusted site to download a manual? I have seen several, not sure which is good to deal with.

Thanks,
Jim

Fitz_VA said:
Hi Folks,

Well, I am in need of some guidance. We are in the snow here today, maybe 21" right now where I am. I was working it and I lost my 4 WD and realized that the main plate behind the front pumkin broke from the welds. I was not doing anything major at the time. I nursed it into the shop and unbolted the heavy plate, 1" thick or so. Unfortunately the loss of the plate drove the driveshaft system into the oil pan, a decent dent. I cleaned the welds, and tacked it all back on. At least it is in the correct geometry, shaft support, and front axle position at this point. I will get a heavier welding unit in the morning to make it correct.

Kernopelli · Feb 14, 2014

Online parts diagram may help to see how everything goes together. Messicks New Holland is a good place to go. I understand not wanting to put the machine under a load in 4WD to see what is going on/what damage may have occurred. You could always jack the wheels off the ground, engage the 4WD and bump the starter to let the 4WD driveline spin w/o being loaded. Have to agree, probably the front coupling is the issue.

Zebrafive · Feb 14, 2014

Google Alma Tractor. Go to their online parts catalog. You can find parts diagrams of your tractor.
The front axle pinion gear shaft is splined on the end of the shaft. A splined coupler connects it to the drive shaft. The drive shaft is also splined at the transmission end and another splined coupler connects the drive shaft to the splined output shaft from the transmission.

If you were to put the front axle up on jack stands to test front axle operation, be aware the rear axle will also be engaged and push the tractor off the jack stands.

Fitz_VA · Feb 14, 2014

Thanks all,

I am going to put the proper welds on tomorrow morning and then follow up with your suggestions. It looks like I basically have to roll the front end off to drop the driveshaft. Does this sound correct?

Jim

Kernopelli · Feb 14, 2014

I really don't know. I would think that the would coupler slide and held in place by a pin or clip but the parts diagram doesn't show a pin or clip. Sooo, moving the axle may be the correct procedure?

joecdeere · Feb 14, 2014

looks in the driveshaft page of the parts book like there may be a snap ring at the rear coupler that allows it to move and allow the shaft to come out

Fitz_VA · Feb 15, 2014

Welding went well today welding, everything is back properly but we finished late so I decided that having the 2 WD was good for today as I needed to move some snow quickly. All worked fine, no issues.

In regards to the front end drive. When the mount broke free the drive shaft unit was driven up into the oil pan, making a kink / angle. I think this broke the couple or displaced it and popped a snapring. We can see the 4 WD engagement gears operating correctly thru the hydraulic fill cap, and the gears look fine. I have no noises, grinding, etc...all is as smooth as it ever has been. I lifted the front end up and I would hold one wheel and spin the other freely with the 4 WD engaged. My understanding is that this should not happen with a differential unit of this design, as it appears that there is no power transmitting back thru the driveshaft to the gear box. The front wheels do rotate opposite each other when you spin one, but you can hold one and spin the other with no transfer back. I would really like to avoid unbolting the front axle but I am not sure that there is any other way as the blue cover tube does not allow much play. In the online diagrams a NH it looks like there are snap rings at both ends of the shaft, along with a coupling at each end.

Anything else i should consider?

joecdeere said:
looks in the driveshaft page of the parts book like there may be a snap ring at the rear coupler that allows it to move and allow the shaft to come out