Help me save money on an addition.

[HawkinsHollow]

framing crews out here are 4-6 months out. heck, building is going nuts. even though i have retired, i still get messages left on my phone asking if i would bid their electrical job. my message SAYS im retired and only do generator maintenance. doesnt stop them. they still leave message and beg for me to call back. No one can fine an electrician that can take on more work

Yep, Chattanooga is booming as well! From all accounts it is tough to line up subs around here too and if you do find one prices can be exorbitant. Which is another reason I am trying to do some of this on my own. The more subs you deal with the more chance of getting some yahoos that try to screw you or gouge you. I have 2 good friends that are contractors, I might have to pull a few favors from them if necessary.

 

[jjeff]

Yes, that's what I use - graph paper, rule and 1/4"/foot to start and then if engineering stamps are needed you will need to spend a few $ on that. Then you can easily put a lumber / plywood and windows list together.

Definitely will need to have the foundation (crawl space or basement?) in by May for a June frame, and then have a framing contractor lined up by March - 10-12 weeks in advance is not uncommon lead time for those crews.

The big ticket items are windows, (Simonton and Matthews Bros) make a good vinyl window product that dont break the bank.

In my experiences depending if your building inspector thinks you know what your doing, Trusses need a engineer stamp which is included in legitimate trusses manufactured by a company. my suggestion would be don't buy cheap trusses off Craigslist etc without an engineers stamp/ drawings.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

In my experiences depending if your building inspector thinks you know what your doing, Trusses need a engineer stamp which is included in legitimate trusses manufactured by a company. my suggestion would be don't buy cheap trusses off Craigslist etc without an engineers stamp/ drawings.

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

 

[jjeff]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

Scissor trusses? If not you can probably find specs on loads/ spans online for rafters and floor joists.

 

[jjeff]

In my experiences also the more unique and complicated your addition is the more pricey and harder it may be to find help for it.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

framing crews out here are 4-6 months out. heck, building is going nuts. even though i have retired, i still get messages left on my phone asking if i would bid their electrical job. my message SAYS im retired and only do generator maintenance. doesnt stop them. they still leave message and beg for me to call back. No one can fine an electrician that can take on more work

That seems to be the situation everywhere.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

I did vaulted ceilings in my place also. There is quite a bit of hidden expense in that. LVL or GluLam beams, and bigger lumber are the known quantity. Higher SQFT cost for framing. More material and labor for drywall, extra lighting, depending on the space available in the attic more than likely will require spray foam insulation, scaffolding, etc.

 

[Carl_NH]

Do up some simple drawings of existing structure/rooms and post some examples here, then what this "addition" looks like - is it an L to the existing with roof pitch etc.

Also suggest sticking to 24x36 or 28x32 or 36 length for common size rafters and floor joists and center support/columns under the base.

Vaulted ceilings are great but need collar ties and ridge beams and this adds to the heat/cooling load as bigjohn points out and then good/tight insulation in the roof spray foam is $$ and finishing needs scaffolding - all cost more at the end of the day.

 

[D&D]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

hickory or knotty pine t&g would look awesome and rustic Instead of drywall. exposed collar ties would add to the effect

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I'm doing pine t&g in mine. It should look awesome but it's pricy. Sheetrock is something like $0.20/sqft and the wood is near $2.00/sqft.