Help me justify a TILLER.

[tony123]

Cool Tim. We're a few miles south of there. I'm on 3 acres near 25 and 290.

Can anyone help with proper install of that yanmar tiller toplink? I can't figure which way is right side up or not. One way, the horizontal line is at the bottom with the angled line at the top. It also fits the reverse of that.

 

[john_bud]

I sounds like the tiller is made for a smaller tractor. Or one with longer 3pt arms.

If you get "Pat's Quick Change" as advertized on this site, it will solve your problems. Cost is about $100, but it will make putting it on a snap. Worth the cost for that alone.

jb

 

[john_bud]

I sounds like the tiller is made for a smaller tractor. Or one with longer 3pt arms.

If you get "Pat's Quick Change" as advertized on this site, it will solve your problems. Cost is about $100, but it will make putting it on a snap. Worth the cost for that alone.

jb

 

[shimp]

Cool Tim. We're a few miles south of there. I'm on 3 acres near 25 and 290.

Can anyone help with proper install of that yanmar tiller toplink? I can't figure which way is right side up or not. One way, the horizontal line is at the bottom with the angled line at the top. It also fits the reverse of that.

There is a short top link needed that will keep the tiller away from the tractor. Check with the dealer that sold you the tiller and ask to see the original style top link for the tiller. it bolts to the back of a Yanmar and is solid for about 12 inches out from the back of the tractor. A short adjustable link connects to this solid piece for pivoting like a normal top link on the tiller. The result is to swing the tiller up and away from the rear tires.

The real trick in attaching it is to make sure the drive shaft will not kink at some point when lifting the tiller. This proved to be the real need for the solid top link.

 

[MacLawn]

Tony, your post has talked me into really wanting a tiller for my Deere 2210. I am near Augusta, GA, not too far from Traveler's Rest. Used to go through there as a kid when we went to mountains via Hwy. 28. Beautiful area.

I just might check out your dealer since I don't know of one closer to where I live. I could use the other one they have if it will work on my 2210.

Post some photos...please.

 

[tony123]

It is marked on the tiller that it is made for the YM2000 and I'm using it on a YMG2000D. So I think it is sized appropriate for my tractor.

Pat's quick change could be an option.

Shimp, I am using the shorter toplink with bolt on plate. The adjuster on the link is not broken free, so it appears to have about 3/4" of thread showing. When I break that free, it may help. Fingers crossed.

MacLawn, they actually have about 5 more tillers on the lot right now. Various brands and prices. There is a Yanmar 1600 that might be suited for your size tractor.

 

[oldhippy]

Tony are the tines hitting the tires when the tiller is raised? The tiller on mine fits real close to the tractor but that keeps the weight close and you don't have to add weight to front of the tractor. I run the triangle part of the Yanmar toplink with the short side on the top and the long angle running towards the ground. The bar (top link) is about 6 to 10 inches long. I will try to upload a crude drawing of the setup. I would hook up and take pictures but am not able to get to tractor right now. Hope that this helps. big dan

 

[MacLawn]

Tony, I got the Harbor Freight quick hitch for mine a few months ago; works great with my rear finising mower, but that is ALL it works with. Therefore, it has become useless for me. I still have to remove it for my middle buster and my rear blade. The bottom hooks are too wide for everything else I presently have. Point is, if you get a quick hitch, make real sure it will fit with all your attachments, or you will still have to change them the hard way! That has been very frustration for me - buying something expecting it to work and it doesn't...

Oldhip (i'm one too), good art work there!

I might check out that Yanmar 1600 tiller for me 2210. I lived in Japan for over 23 years (going back next week for a couple of weeks) and am very familiar with the Yanmar tractors, rice farming there, etc. Yanmar is the biggest tractor/boat, etc. diesel company in Japan and make great engines. My 2210 is a Yanmar, as are most of the John Deere tractors.

 

[MacLawn]

Tony,

I should have gotten the Pat's! I just read this from a person who has one:

"My main reason for buying Pat's was because it would accommodate implements with lower links at different widths, where a standard quick hitch will not, as well as the fact that a quick hitch has to be removed when using a Post Hold Digger and the PHD is one of the hardest implements to connect up to a 3pt."

Maybe I will try to sell mine and get the Pat's. It will work with all my stuff.

 

[tony123]

Big Dan, man....thanks for the drawing. That does help alot! I have it the opposite way. I'm also determined to break loose the adjustment on the toplink, as that will let it pull in another 1/2" and may do the trick for me. There are some "paddles" connected to a spring inside the two plates for the toplink plate. What are those for?

The tire isn't hitting tines, just the outer case. Not good either way though.

MacLawn, things move very fast around Southland. I think 4-5 of his original 8-10 tillers are gone in this first week. I'm about sure you'll be picking from the scraps if you wait until after your Japan trip. I'm going by there this morning, and will take a digital photo of whats left and post it here for you.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Tony, at those prices you got a heck of a deal for a tiller in good shape.

Sounds like your top-link adjustment will help you out. if not, you can take a measurement and even fabricate a solid toplink dedicated just for the tiller, out of steel flat stock, something like 3/8" thick stock should do it.

Since the tiller is so close to the tractor, be sure you do check your PTO shaft length (as was mentioned) , and that you have some play when it is at it's shortest length, as you raise and lower. PTO shaft kinking can really cause major problems like cracking your trans case and such.

I'm putting in a new garden in the spring, but my tiller has paid for itself with all of the landscaping it's done. Raised beds and a border for my fence line were worth the cost of the tiller, alone.

What would have taken days and days to till with my Troybuilt Horse tiller, took about 20 minutes with the 48" tractor mounted tiller.

Gald to hear you took the tiller plunge, you won't regret it!!

 

[oldhippy]

Tony I think that they are for thumping with your finger (kills some of that idle time we all have). Really don't have a clue. Don't seem to affect anything. You might ask on the Yanmar board.. big dan

 

[MacLawn]

MacLawn, things move very fast around Southland. I think 4-5 of his original 8-10 tillers are gone in this first week. I'm about sure you'll be picking from the scraps if you wait until after your Japan trip. I'm going by there this morning, and will take a digital photo of whats left and post it here for you.

Thanks a lot Tony! I'm in no hurry ($ a little tight now), but I do want to at least look, and if I could get one for about $300 or so, I just might swing it. From the posts here, I realize now how much I could use a tiller. I'm looking at all kinds of places that need busting up!

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Tony, I'm not home today so working from memory which isn't the best any longer. Think the skectch provided has the orientation correct. There are several different top link mounts. Believe mine has a decal with the various models it is intended to be used with. There is also some info on length for the link itself. Seem to recall the link dim is on a decal on the tiller.

When properly adj'd the tiller pivots as it is raised and lowered. Even with proper link and adj, the tiller come very close to the rear wheels. I've got one of the harbor freight QM hitches and no longer use the Yanmar top link. I modified the mount on the tiller so it complies to cat 1 stds. Works great for me.

 

[tony123]

Used the tiller yesterday! I tried every conceavable way to adjust the toplink and bracket, and none mad it any better. Then, I tried using the short 10" toplink without the bracket peice. That was actually an improvement, and I think will work for my purposes. Now it only rubs the tire if in the fully raised position. It doesn't hit when operating. So, I just lift it a few inches off the ground when driving around.

Mickey, there are no stickers on my toplink, but it is likely that mine is not the one for this tractor.

As long as the dirt is smooth, the tiller is. Runs like a dream. It did get to clanking some when I would uproot football sized rock. Thats not the tillers fault though.

I think it was stated earlier in this thread, that a tiller is not about how much you use it, but more about how much less you have to use all the other tools. hahaha..... I got my garden fluffed down to 10" in all of 15 minutes.

Maclawn, I drove by Southland to get your photo, but they weren't open.

I'm now going to continue my discussion over on my "farm thread", as it will be more about operation of the tiller, and I don't want to double post. Thanks to everyone for the help. Here's a link to that thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/109242-building-hobby-farm-woods-eggs.html

Here are some photos.

 

[MacLawn]

Tony, see you back at the "woods-eggs" thread

 

[shimp]

tony
i was wunderin if yer lift arms are set at halfway or all the way out with the tiller on?

 

[tony123]

Shimp, I hope you're on to something. I don't know how to tell? Can you explain how I would determine? thanks.

 

[LBrown59]

Since the tiller is pretty compact it is my preferred counterweight for the loader.

Charles

mine makes a good counter balance for the front blade.

 

[LBrown59]

I had a coworker in your same predicament and had a hard time justifying buying one. I found him a used 5' grey market tiller that was in perfect condition for $500 and he paid for it the first spring by putting up flyers and a newspaper ad to till gardens. He established a minimum fee of $50.00 and said he ended up turning down work. There are a lot of people that would love to have a garden but no way to put one in...if you wanted to go that route it is easy to justify the expense by considering it a business investment.

The main obstacle to doing this is hauling the rig and the insurance matter.