HELP!!! - Box Blade Breaking sway bar links on tractor........

[brown40]

On my unit there are an assortment of holes to choose from, and there isn't a configuration that ever truly seems under tension on both sides in a neutral position... one side reaches it's limit to play out on one side, and vice-versa. Depending on the 3pt configuration of each implement, there may be compression on a side before the other is fully stretched.
I don't believe you want to snug up all the play in your unit and have the whole thing under tension when in "neutral", or every shock is stretching and compressing the entire frame, of which the stabilizers are the part you need/want to fail before their attachment points on the 3pt.
I know it's tempting to fill up the box, drag and turn it every which way that fits the job, but the linkages are not liking it, and sacrificing themselves for the rest of the unit. When grading with the box will only fill minimally, so strain comes from an empty box weight--not a fully loaded one. If you leave a little sway, you may get more time out of them, but you either have to change the practice, or get used to replacing them. You can always drop the pile, turn around and back up to/over it and take smaller straighter bites.
I would NOT put heavier ones in place and ask the frame or arm to be the next weakest link... your repair is 4 pins at this point.

 

[jenkinsph]

Those are 3 point hitch stabilizer arms. They break often for me too. I read that it may be because the type of pin being used at the point that it attaches to the tractor. I am still trying to find an online source for these so I don't have to keep making the 30 mile trip to the dealer.

I broke a pin about two months ago on my 4520, first time since buying the tractor in 2009. That was my fault as I turned too sharp with a loaded box blade. Sometimes you screw up and a simple pin change is a cheap lesson.

As far as slack is concerned I adjust to have about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of movement from left to right of the box blade at the rear when just off the ground. A brush mower sticking out behind the tractor much farther may allow the tail wheel to move 3 inches. In all cases you would want the stabilizers to operate in tension ideally and keep the implement centered.

Making a sharp turn with a full box I recommend you raise the box an inch or so before turning. Then make another pass to catch the excess dirt. For those going in tight circles to smooth an area you might want to rethink this and use other methods for the bulk moving.

 

[TSO]

This seems to be a recurring theme on LS machines. Originally, the bracket/tab on the tractor that these stabilizers bolt to was the weak point. Maybe they strengthened those brackets, and now the stabilizers are the weak spot.

In my opinion, the design is faulty and/or weak... I've put about 1300 hrs on my Massey machines in the last couple years, the vast majority of that time with a heavy 3pt implement attached, pulling forward, pushing back, going straight, and making loaded turns... never damaged the stabilizer link system.

And...that's not to say that Massey is amazing because of this, I think it's just performing as it's supposed to, as I expect it to. Whereas the LS system appears to be under engineered.

 

[sd455dan]

Just a thought -but maybe switching to a chain/turnbuckle style would help.
That style will not allow compression -only tension forces.
They also allow for very fine (play) adjustments.

 

[TripleR]

Yes, I've considered chains, just not enough of a problem to make the change; yet.

 

[Jkott]

Those are 3 point hitch stabilizer arms. They break often for me too. I read that it may be because the type of pin being used at the point that it attaches to the tractor. I am still trying to find an online source for these so I don't have to keep making the 30 mile trip to the dealer.

are you bending them when you lift? I see you have a NH Boomer 50 in your sig. I assume it's like my Boomer 30. The Factory used the wrong style pins and they "catch". Use flat sided pins. See the thread where I went through this and diagnosed it for New Holland. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...258884-boomer-30-broken-stabilizer-mount.html

FYI, Messicks has them online .

 

[Jkott]

OP, I see you have a Boomer 30 too. Did you ever figure out what was breaking your stabilizer bars? Were they bending or breaking?

 

[Jkott]

This seems to be a recurring theme on LS machines. Originally, the bracket/tab on the tractor that these stabilizers bolt to was the weak point. Maybe they strengthened those brackets, and now the stabilizers are the weak spot. In my opinion, the design is faulty and/or weak... I've put about 1300 hrs on my Massey machines in the last couple years, the vast majority of that time with a heavy 3pt implement attached, pulling forward, pushing back, going straight, and making loaded turns... never damaged the stabilizer link system. And...that's not to say that Massey is amazing because of this, I think it's just performing as it's supposed to, as I expect it to. Whereas the LS system appears to be under engineered.

Nah. I don't think there is anything wrong with the stabilizer or the brackets. The wrong $1 lynch pin causes it to bind and either snap off the bracket pin, or catches on lift and bends the stabilizer. In the last 4 years since I switched to flat sided lynch pins without a big mushroom head, I've had no problems with mine.

 

[MF283]

are you bending them when you lift? I see you have a NH Boomer 50 in your sig. I assume it's like my Boomer 30. The Factory used the wrong style pins and they "catch". Use flat sided pins. See the thread where I went through this and diagnosed it for New Holland. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...258884-boomer-30-broken-stabilizer-mount.html

FYI, Messicks has them online .

In all my 40+ years of fooling with tractors, that is the first round lynch pin i'v ever seen:shocked:

Ronnie

 

[TnAndy]

Had the same problem on Yanmar LX410.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar-new/333147-some-things-about-new-yanmars.html

Replacement turnbuckle type I finally got them to send on the left after I broke/bent 5 of the sliding type on the right (see pc bent at 45). So far, no problem with the new type.

I think the problem with the sliding type was they simply left too little metal once the hole was drilled in the bar for the pin....because every one of them bent, then broke next, at those hole points.