Help a fella pick out a tractor please (L3301 or L3901)

[RollingsFarms]

Sorry if this has already been brought up, didn't read the whole thread, but have you checked with Barlow's in KY? They get lots of good write-ups here, and they ship!!

I haven't yet. I was going to shop my local dealers first and see what I could find locally. I most likely will ask them for a quote though just to see what happens.

 

[The Deerslayer]

Are the R1's or the R4's more expensive and about how much is the difference, does anyone know? I've been getting quotes for R4 tires but I did notice that the dealers stock a lot of these tractors with R1's

The R1s are less expensive. Not sure the difference, but you can check on the Kubota website when you build it.

 

[RollingsFarms]

The R1s are less expensive. Not sure the difference, but you can check on the Kubota website when you build it.

I have built several tractors and whenever I build what I want it comes out WAY more than any quote I'm getting. I know that's normal but I swear dealers are quoting me more than 10% discount. Not that I'm complaining I'm just not use to such wide price differences from dealer to dealer. I'm used to John Deere pricing....take 10% off and if you get 12% then you better hug the salesman. I need to play around with it some more. Is cruise control a must for hst? Can you live without it or is the price so little that you might as well add it? I want a nice tractor but didn't need to fancy it up too much that's why I'm trying to keep cost down. I don't want to cheap out but since this won't be an everyday tractor I didn't want to pretty it up too much.

 

[teg]

Cruise Control is nice when you are mowing a large area... I mow 12 acres and forget about using cruise control... usually about half way through mowing I'll remember it and engage it. It's not that big of a deal to keep your foot down on the peddle.

 

[Fallon]

R4s are a couple hundred more than R1.

R1 is designed for maximum traction
R4 is a compromise between extended wear, durability, carrying capacity, flotation & traction

I went with R4s & haven't regretted it since getting them loaded until the snow this week. Past 2 winters they fought snow fine, but the slushy nasty drifts this week were to much. Not sure if R1s would have been much better though. I like the fact they rear up my yard LESS (but still leave tracks on non-hard stuff or when turning.

As I said before I have $1k of regret for not getting the extra HP, but not the $2k it would have cost me then.

In low range full throttle with good traction I can spin the tires at half go pedal. More HP probably won't make a lot of difference digging, plowing, or traction limited stuff. It will come into play if you do a lot of taxing PTO related thing.

For loader or precision work, NOTHING beats a HST. It sounds like you have bigger machines for pulling though. Why get a hatchet (gear) when a scalpel (HST) when you are looking at more flexible precise work.

 

[Fallon]

I don't have cruise, but it might be nice, especially for mowing. If I'm traveling & not doing PTO work, I lower the throttle, mash the go pedal all the way & adjust speed with the throttle.

 

[The Deerslayer]

I have built several tractors and whenever I build what I want it comes out WAY more than any quote I'm getting. I know that's normal but I swear dealers are quoting me more than 10% discount. Not that I'm complaining I'm just not use to such wide price differences from dealer to dealer. I'm used to John Deere pricing....take 10% off and if you get 12% then you better hug the salesman. I need to play around with it some more. Is cruise control a must for hst? Can you live without it or is the price so little that you might as well add it? I want a nice tractor but didn't need to fancy it up too much that's why I'm trying to keep cost down. I don't want to cheap out but since this won't be an everyday tractor I didn't want to pretty it up too much.

The CC is a nice feature and would have cost $205 but I was able to have them include it as part of the deal. See if the dealer will add at no cost and if not, over the number of years you'll have the tractor; the added cost is peanuts. If you opt not to get it, it really is not a big deal keeping your foot on the pedal. In fact, the last time I brush hogged the fields for 3-4 hours, I did not even use the CC. Bottom line for me? Now that I have it, I probably could have lived without it, but because there was no additional cost, its all good.

As far as % discount, I looked up my research notes pre-sale and I got just under 13% off list.

 

[motownbrowne]

I use cruise control relatively often. It came standard on my MX4700. If it had cost extra I don't know if I would have sprung for it, but I'm glad it's there. It's nice when roading the machine, or long periods of mowing as others have said. Now that I know how much I use it, I would say it's worth $200 if you have to pay for it.

 

[4570Man]

My L3240 has about every fancy instrument you could ask for. I hardly use any of them. My Grandpas L3800 is a value tractor with a bare bones instrument panel. The only thing I miss when using it (besides the all around stronger tractor the L3240 is) is a 6 speed HST and PTO readout RPMs.

 

[TomSeller]

I'd definitely give them a look! Only one problem, there's only one dealership in the whole state and its about 3 hours away from me. Otherwise I'd really give them a serious look. Same with Mahindra and Kioti, long ways off. I have four Kubota dealerships near me and 5 John Deere dealerships, two New Holland and one Case.

Those are all credible brands, every one them. But a good close dealer is very important and it is hard to beat Kubota in quality.