Heating/Cooling Selection

   / Heating/Cooling Selection #11  
I am looking for a new heating and AC system as my 23 year old Bryant is starting to have some problems. I am looking for advice and please keep in mind I live in NE Indiana.

I have ruled out geothermal as we have Natural gas already. With the prospect of electric rates going up and the current cost of gas it is the lowest cost way to go.

Here is a summary of the features, sizes, and costs that have been recommended for my house.


View attachment 545505

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

If you have such cheap gas, I wonder if there's any commercial manufacturer who does ammonia system installs. They make refrigerators that can run on gas/kero/gasoline, using an ammonia system. You might Google it and/or ask a couple of AC/furnace vendor outfits about it.

Ralph
 
   / Heating/Cooling Selection #12  
View attachment 545598

Shui - I am surprised at the recommendation of 16 SEER since you are up north and do not use your AC as much as someone down south would. How long is the payback for that upgrade? Aren't heat pumps a lot more expensive than just AC units? Your comments intrigued me.

SeaBee - What does the "condensing" type mean? How does it differ from a regular gas furnace?

Okay so I'll try to cover as much as I can,
First of all, by the chart and feedback the trane is the best deal here in my opinion. the brand is very reputable and overall. Good and was part of my considerations when I was looking for my central unit.

Secondly, while we don't use AC as much as you guys, the higher SEER ratings go hand in hand with EER and COP ratings, so a higher SEER unit will be more efficient in cooling and heating.
Why 16? Well I had the choice between three machines from 3 brands and the difference in price was under 1000$ to bump it up from 13-14 SEER to 16.
Will I ever see this return in my pocket? Probably not at the current price of electricity (0.058$/kwh) but here if you burn over 30kw the price goes up to 0.087$/kw and around 0.10$/kwh after 50kw a day. (0.12$/kw in the winter once you pass 50kw). The higher SEER value means i wont pass up to the higher cost electricity and therefore I'll never "earn my money back" because I burn the 5c power and not the 12c one. However if I was paying 12c instead of 5c then the savings would be around 100$/y with my consumption.
However electricity prices do tend to go up and that simply means the savings would come sooner (by my estimate around the 6-7year mark).

As far as a heatpump, you have all of the essentials and therefore it shouldn't be much more of an upgrade doesn't hurt to ask for a quote . Don't forget that a heatpump works by being the reverse AC meaning the outdoor coil is cold and inside one is hot. The greater the temperature difference the higher the efficiency is. An HVAC system is almost twice as efficient as using electric resistive heating in the house. Meaning that the heatpump extracts the heat that's available outside (even if it's just 20f) and pumps it into the house at a lower cost than heating with electricity. Now at a certain point they stop being efficient (around the 5-10f mark) and the backup system kicks in (gas or electric).
I'm going to assume that electricity is cheaper than gas there and therefore think of all the days where it is above 10f where you can be heating your house to 70-72f (or whatever you set your temperature to) with electricity instead of gas.

I have one system that has an AC with a natural gas furnace and one system on a different house that's heatpump and propane, and while the house with the natural gas piped in would save some money on the gas bill, the price difference was not worth it at the current rates here) (figure propane I pay around 3$ a gallon and natural gas is 16c/m3 or figure 16c a gallon. While the unit does consume more, it still is nowhere close to the 3$ mark or the 10kwh it provides of power (which is 50cents while gas is 16). So it depends on your rate and type of gas , and electricity in order to help you decide which system would be better suited for you.

Variable speed units... everyone told me to stay clear of them due to the nature of living in a place where power isn't "clean" meaning the units are sensitive to voltage fluctuations and the fact that we have short power outages often (a second long) it's enough to cause issues later on. A 2 speed unit will be more than comfortable, reliable and energy efficient in almost all scenarios as opposed to the variable speed units which may save a fraction of the monthly bill but one simple repair to them and the savings will be down the drain.

Lastly a condensing type of furnace is a furnace in which the exhaust (or heat transfer) is "long" enough that all of the heat is transferred to the air (or water) and that at the exhaust you have relatively just condensation with almost no residual heat. Figure any furnace with a 90% efficiency and above will be a condensing type while anything less is considered to be a standard furnace or medium efficiency..

Hope this helps

Edit: I saw that op mentioned that he had natural gas so the variable I would be missing is the price for the gas and electricity to help compare, but say if I was paying 1.30$/10kw and gas was 20c/1m3 and propane was 1.50$/gallon then the obvious winner would be natural gas, however if the gap becomes bigger (as it is in my case with propane) then a heatpump becomes a better long term solution while if the gap between electricity and NG becomes bigger then a furnace and conventional AC would be the better long term solution.

On a side note, I'd stay away from humidifiers and dehumidifiers, the AC removes humidity as is and a humidifier is generally more of a bacterial growth promoter than comfort increasing feature. What I would add to the HVAC system is a good air exchanger that can take outside air and mix it, when needed in order to help play with humidity levels.
But be careful, you need to get a GOOD unit with a good heat exchanger and have a drain as these too are prone to growing bugs if they have stagnant water/condensation inside of them.

Edit 2: I think you guys buy your NG by the cubic foot instead of m3 so the price of 16c/m3 (0.16$/m3) is 0.0045$/cuft
Or 4.5$/1000cuft
 
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   / Heating/Cooling Selection #13  
Sorry guys. The PDF opens for me. This format may work better.

View attachment 545598

The Trane dealer is the company I have worked with for about ten years. The couple who owned the shop just sold it to their technician who we have liked through the years so my initial thought is that it was his business to lose. The Frigidaire is from another shop that is a guy and his son. but the other three are from much larger businesses that I have not worked with but they have good reputations.

I know the Carrier is made by United Technologies which also makes Bryant. I have been happy with my Bryant but the only dealer in the area is one that sold it to me who I will never go back to again. I agree with the comments about the installer as after a year of my other one I paid another company to re-install the one I have and it has been great since. That is why i went to the reputable Carrier dealer for a quote.

K7LN - I understand your comments about complexity and that is my worry as well but even the technician I have been using says that the VSM would make a big difference in comfort. He is certainly not a salesman and a little bit of a hillbilly so if even he says it is worth it it got me thinking.

Shui - I am surprised at the recommendation of 16 SEER since you are up north and do not use your AC as much as someone down south would. How long is the payback for that upgrade? Aren't heat pumps a lot more expensive than just AC units? Your comments intrigued me.

SeaBee - What does the "condensing" type mean? How does it differ from a regular gas furnace?

thanks again for your comments!

Condensing furnaces/boilers/water heaters work on the principle of extracting all the heat from the flue gas. This is done by condensing all the fluids in the combustion process to extract the sensible and latent heat. Efficiencies of 96-98% are achieved versus the 86% of a standard gas burner. They also are the ones achieving the highest SEER factors. The burner exhaust/flue has so little heat you can use PVC pipe to carry it away. Sidewall exhaust is common. You can put your hand in the stream.

Ron
 
   / Heating/Cooling Selection #14  
Efficiencies of 96-98% are achieved versus the 86% of a standard gas burner. They also are the ones achieving the highest SEER factors.

Actually, non condensing gas furnaces (below 90% AFUE) acheive a higher SEER AHRI rating than a 90+ gas furnace using the same type of motor (ECM / variable speed) given they are rated with the AHRI matched outdoor unit. Took me 18 years to figure out why LMAO.

On indoor motors, I have a familiarity with a bunch of different equipment lines, and when I had to replace one of my own systems, I went with variable speed indoor blower motor. On my second system, I went with a X-13 indoor blower motor and used a whole house dehumdifier for an experiment on humidity control. When my 3rd system finally fails, it will be replaced with a variable speed indoor blower motor. Generally where the variable speed blower motor helps is on humidity control, particulalry with a multi stage (or variable speed) compressor. Biggest downside to a true variable speed blower motor is cost and weather or not you can get the control module separately from the actual motor. That one variable speed motor lasted 13 years until I had to replace it.

Sidenote, biggest killer on indoor blower motors, and perhaps higher operating costs because the motor is continuously "working harder", is not having the proper duct work size. If the company is GOOD and knows what they are doing, they will provide a start up sheet on request which will include CFM's along with static pressure.

A decent read on static pressure and why it's so important

https://www.rses.org/assets/rses_journal/1114_Static.pdf

From time to time I have to ask a HVAC service tech what his static pressure is (along with CFM's) the the general response is "good" without speciffic numbers. This alone tells me he hasn't actually checked it. Had a system I got called on that had 14 service calls with parts replacements over an 8 year period when the system was installed (installing contractor had gone out of business and this new guy was called). I told the contractor the first thing he should do is check the static pressure. One of the highest static pressure readings I've ever come across. Turns out the duct work had long since collasped which you couldn't see. Replaced the damaged ductwork and system, and the homeowner hasn't had a problem since. Static pressure and CFM's are just as important, or perhaps more important than superheat and sub cooling.

When Carrier first came out with the first variable speed indoor blower (around 98/99 I believe), everone called them a ECM motor. The higher (very slightly) efficient X-13 use to be called "X-13 motor". Technically, the X-13 is a ECM motor which can cause confusion with some people. The X-13 indoor motor offered by some manufacturers is also a multi speed/tap motor where it can reduce the CFM's the system produces after it reaches set point, helping with comfort.

Generally, your lowest rated SEER systems use a PSC (permanent split capacitor) indoor blower motor (same motor used in either a gas furnace or air handler) where your higher SEER systems (generally 15 SEER or higher) use a
X-13 or variable speed indoor blower motor.

SIDENOTE TO OP - I see you have Frigidaire (Nordyne) listed on the quote. Nordyne uses a micro channel coil on both outdoor AC unit and heat pump along with indoor coil. Airflow and static pressure is more critical with these systems. Ensure you know what those readings are if you go with that system.

Also surprised that you're only hitting 13 SEER with a variable speed indoor blower. Did the contractors supply AHRI numbers for the systems proposed? Also assuming this is a 5 ton cooling system?
 
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   / Heating/Cooling Selection
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks guys!

Shui - I really appreciate the explanation - it helps me put it in perspective for my application.

Sig - I am going to have to think more about the motors and the warranties.

Seabee - My Bryant I have is a 90+ where a lot of water goes to my sump pump out of the combustion exhaust. I guess it is a condensing type?
 
   / Heating/Cooling Selection #16  
3 years now on an Aprilaire steam humidifier running 220v as the other poster mentioned. Trouble free and works great. Timberframe home and all wood floors so wanted an easy way to controll the humidity. Ours has no issue keeping humidity levels up in winter.
 

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