Having to jump-start my D110

[Wagtail]

Recently I've been forced to jump-start my D110 lawn tractor. It was bought in May of '13 and gets run at least every 10 days. 160+ hrs on the clock and it's due for an oil change. Spark plug changed (because 'they' said to in the manual) at 100hrs. Prior to this it would fire up (cold engine) after 3-4 turn-overs, choke on.

Symptoms now: (me 'in the seat', brake fully engaged, choke 'on') 1 or 2 turn-over revolutions then electrical 'chitter'.
Voltmeter prior it start +12.50VDC, after failed start +11.94VDC
Battery terminals clean and tight. All other connections (that I can see/find are tight)

Once I've hooked up the jumper cables from my ute (pick-up truck) the D110 fires up normally. I can use it for hours and, if I do shut it down, it will start again with without having to 'boost'.

Trickle charging does not change the symptoms.

To me, it sounds like the battery has lost it's starting Oomph... which would be amperage.

However, before I go ahead and 'fire the parts cannon' at it (new battery), I thought that I'd ask this august body (that's you blokes) for your thoughts.

 

[beenthere]

Yup.. a new battery.

 

[Wagtail]

Yup.. a new battery.

Bugger.

 

[beenthere]

A bigger bugger if that doesn't fix the problem..

 

[ultrarunner]

Sure sounds like battery...

Anyway to load test it outside the tractor?

My 110 often sits for months at a time and battery running down has not been an issue.

I have had equipment with parasitic loss where I put in a battery disconnect and that was my work around.

Being as the she fires right off with a jump would seem to be battery or parasitic loss.

Do you have an old fashion straight charger you can use? The trickle chargers are good but sometimes I have found they read the charge as full when it isn't.

My old 50 amp 50lb charger will cook a battery if left on long enough... it has also save a few the modern chargers would not touch.

 

[tomplum]

Many auto parts stores will load test your battery for free. Should you need to replace it, stick with a 250 CCA or above. Valve lash service was put in the books to be done @ 100 hours. They don't all need it, but excessive valve lash can be causing the compression release to not work the way it should. Speaking of parasitic draws, these will always have a draw due to the voltage regulator not fully shutting down and the way the tractor is wired.

 

[Wagtail]

Sure sounds like battery...

Anyway to load test it outside the tractor?

My 110 often sits for months at a time and battery running down has not been an issue.

I have had equipment with parasitic loss where I put in a battery disconnect and that was my work around.

Being as the she fires right off with a jump would seem to be battery or parasitic loss.

Do you have an old fashion straight charger you can use? The trickle chargers are good but sometimes I have found they read the charge as full when it isn't.

My old 50 amp 50lb charger will cook a battery if left on long enough... it has also save a few the modern chargers would not touch.

Exactly!

I wiped off the dust/gunk of the battery to read the part number (etc...) and under the 'Date' (in fine print, of course) it said that, "if this battery was being installed after the above date (Sept '13), pace it on a charger for at least an hour."

So I did. As usual the trickle charger took a few seconds to indicate (green) that the battery was fully charged but I ignored that and left the charger running for 1.5hrs. After disconnecting, the battery had enough 'oomph' to start!

The only parasitic loss that I can think of would be the Hours indicator; constantly on & slowly blinking. Modern technology, eh?

Yes tomplum, my local auto-parts shop has a battery load test capability.

Fortunately, due to your collective advice, it's most likely the battery.

 

[ultrarunner]

At about age 13 I saved up and bought a Silver Beauty Brand Battery and Alternator tester... it is something I continue to use...

With a questionable battery I first charge it and then use my load tester it can simulate up to 300 crank amps.

A good battery will have the needle solid... a questionable battery will have the needle drop like a rock.

As a side note... my brother's Mustang in High School sounded like battery trouble so he replaced it... still had trouble... I tested the battery and OK... then I left the meter on and he hit the starter... the needle dropped like a rock... the starter bushing was bad and the starter was drawing something like 700 amps... no wonder the battery cable was smoking.

 

[Wagtail]

At about age 13 I saved up and bought a Silver Beauty Brand Battery and Alternator tester... it is something I continue to use...

The next time I'm at the local auto-parts shop (Buster's) I'll enquire as to what's on offer. Ta Mate.

Mind you I can't see me using it as often as you and your large vehicle collection would, but any tool is an investment.

 

[Richard001]

Sure sounds like battery...

Do you have an old fashion straight charger you can use? The trickle chargers are good but sometimes I have found they read the charge as full when it isn't.

Ultra - you are absolutely correct about trickle charges. They are maintainers, not real chargers. I have one that I use to keep my van battery charged over the winter as I don't use it then. I have measured the battery voltage with the trickle charger connected and it usually reads about 13 to 13.5 volts. That is not enough to charge a battery.

A charger should be putting into your battery at about 14.5 volts.

Richard