Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,311  
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Bruce
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,312  
Nope. The Do SUCK thread is open, too.
Maybe I got into an old post about a closed thread and didn't notice the date.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,314  
I have a BUNCH of organizers similar to those in the shop and down in my basement. I have everything from brass fittings to DIN connectors to flanged frame bolts and nuts, and lots of miscellaneous stuff in them. ANd I have them labeled so I know whats in them.

I made wood shelf units out of 1/2" plywood, all glued, no screws or nails, that each hold ten of them. I have five of them, and may have to build more.

I made similar boxes of 1/2 inch plywood sides, top, and bottom and with 1/4 inch plywood shelves and dados. Shelf spacing is just tall enough for containers to slide in. I put my boxes on casters taken from the HF furniture moving dollies. At $ 7.99 per dolly with 4 casters, they are bargains and my box of containers can be rolled around my shop as needed.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,316  
Thoughts on the clamp on edge guides?

Need to even out some fence boards and plan on doing it outside, not where the table saw is.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,317  
Thoughts on the clamp on edge guides?

Need to even out some fence boards and plan on doing it outside, not where the table saw is.
I bought one of those aluminum clamp on bars. Works ok for those quick cross cuts on a panel. The only problem I can see using it for your purpose would be the clamp handle.... you would need enough space to push the handle 90° to the edge to tighten it up.

I would get a long piece of aluminum or steel angle (something like 3/4" x 3/4") and just use C-clamps to hold it where you need.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,318  
I bought one of those aluminum clamp on bars. Works ok for those quick cross cuts on a panel. The only problem I can see using it for your purpose would be the clamp handle.... you would need enough space to push the handle 90° to the edge to tighten it up.

I would get a long piece of aluminum or steel angle (something like 3/4" x 3/4") and just use C-clamps to hold it where you need.
I have one of the aluminum straight edges (two 4.5' pieces of extruded aluminum with a piece in the middle to join them together) works well for ripping down plywood with a circular saw. I have some of the quick clamps and those are much quicker than a c-clamp to fasten it in place.
The problem with a piece of angle is that if it is tall enough to not flex it may be too tall to clear the housing of the saw if you are running against the motor side of the saw.

Aaron Z
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,319  
Fence boards are only ~5" wide which will be a problem getting set up when I have 30 or 40 to do. They're older and somewhat warped (like me), but still usable if I can trim the edges to get them to mate closer together. Another option I'm considering is my very rarely (almost never) used router table. It's small enough to take out to the work area and would not require clamping to each board. Might take several passes for each though.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #14,320  
That sounds like a project ideally suited to a table saw. If you can't carry one out there, could you make a temporary portable one by mounting your skilsaw (blade facing up) underneath a lightweight platform?

Why not carry the boards down to your shop?
 

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