Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,961  
A few months ago I bought a Hercules table saw. Overall I am impressed with it. The one thing I recently noticed though is that I can't install my Dado blade. I am not an expert on such matters. Do other inexpensive table saws accept Dado blades, or is there a Dado that will fit the Hercules?

I've seen a review or two of contractors table saws on YouTube and the ones that would accept dado blades were specified.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,962  
Does anyone know if the Icon 8 pc snap ring plier set is any good? I'm sick of dealing with the junk pliers I have. Thinking of adding this to my Christmas list.

If they are junk, what are some good brands (without having to chase down the Snap-On truck)?

Looking at the video someone posted to that of the snap ring for the front axle, that is one serious snap ring! With the cussing I've done at snap ring pliers it almost makes me want to get one of those sets...
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,963  
CrazyAl, I agree; my PM66 has a 3 horse Leeson motor and triple drive belts - bought it from a cabinet shop that wanted MORE horsepower - they bought the new PM 2000 (IIRC), came with a 5 horse 3 Phase. At this stage in my life, I very much doubt I'll EVER be in that much of a hurry again :=) ... Steve
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,964  
The Hercules contractor table saw seems to be a nice saw for an intermittent user like me, particularly for the money. I made a permanent table for it with lockable castors, and it is really handy.

A question for those in the know I have wondered about for years ..... Why will a radial arm saw cross cut wood so nicely but do such a horrible job of rip cutting wood (Dulls blades quickly, cuts slow, burns the wood, uses too much power, etc.) and a table saw do so much better?

I think I will just keep using my 40 year old Craftsman Radial Arm Saw for cutting the few dados that I cut, and use the Hercules for ripping. If I were making furniture for the house I'd do something else. I mostly keep to making shelves and things for my shop, bird houses, and fancy boxes for my daughters (they are always hitting me up for another sturdy, nicely finished wooden box to store their stuff).
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,966  
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Main reason for the recall is NOT having the entire blade covered - IMO, anybody who uses ANY power tool without understanding the physics involved, runs the risk of injury. If you THINK first, you won'd do things like holding a board in your hand directly under where you're drilling a HOLE in the board :eek:

"A question for those in the know I have wondered about for years ..... Why will a radial arm saw cross cut wood so nicely but do such a horrible job of rip cutting wood (Dulls blades quickly, cuts slow, burns the wood, uses too much power, etc.) and a table saw do so much better?"

I've had a Craftsman 12" "Commercial" radial saw since 1972, it's still in my shop right next to the 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I also have a 10" and another 12", both CL finds for a TOTAL of $60 - both run and work fine. The 12" cost me $10, guy bought it and ended up moving (job related) into a smaller place and was cleaning house before the move...

Things to remember - just because your radial saw AND table saw both use 10" blades, you definitely should NOT swap blades between them - radial and miter saws cut from the TOP, and have a tendency to LIFT the board because they cut from UNDER the board - for this reason, those saws need a blade with a NEGATIVE hook angle to reduce board lifting AND reduce kickback. On a big enough radial saw, they can actually "run across at you" if you're trying to cut too fast - ONCE was all it took for me to lock THAT "no-no" into my head :eek:

Table saws cut as the blade teeth come DOWN onto the board, which tends to KEEP the board against the table - they can still kick back but for different reasons. Blades intended for table saws can and do have a POSITIVE hook angle - this makes for a more agressive cut, which allows for a faster feed.

With EITHER type saw, if it came with a "combination" blade I would recommend putting that on a distant shelf somewhere (maybe AFTER you use it long enough to HATE it) and getting some "single purpose" blades as you need 'em - a finer tooth crosscut blade for (surprise) cross cutting, a coarser tooth RIP blade, and if cutting sheet goods, they make blades specifically for different materials. Yeah, you can get carried away with this - if you NEVER do any "cabinet level" work, that combination blade might work for you til it can't cut any more.

Ripping on a radial saw - did that ONCE before I bought a full face shield (sometimes I learn quicker than others :rolleyes:) - took me about two SECONDS to figger out I didn't appreciate getting slivers stuck in my face :confused: - that was ALSO the day I started saving for a TABLE SAW...

If you try to rip with a combination blade, it takes too much force pushing/blade cuts too slow/tries to LIFT the board, you spend too much effort holding the board DOWN instead of PUSHING, blade gets hot, gets dull faster, you get distracted looking at the slivers sticking out of your chest, etc...

Sooner or later, assuming you stick with it, you learn the "right tool for the job" mantra - if all you have (and can afford) is a radial saw, you WILL own a full face shield AND a leather jacket :laughing: - If all you have is a TABLE saw, eventually you will have built at least one "crosscut sled" - probably more like 2 or 3...

In EITHER case, if you do very much (and have a desire to improve on the results) you'll tend to keep "purpose made" blades, and live with the PITA that's known as blade changing (I'm not trying to "preach" here, I tend to get lazy about this - only makes it MORE embarassing that I KNOW BETTER :confused: )

Personally, the ONE "safety" thing I try to ALWAYS do - DRY RUN - ANYTHING in my shop that involves power tools, I figure out EXACTLY where BOTH HANDS are gonna be (and move to) BEFORE ever touching a power switch - Initially, this started because of music; I started piano when I was 5, trombone at 12, guitar at 15, organ at 17, drums and bass guitar at about 35, cello (briefly) at 37 - pretty much ALL those work a whole lot better with ALL TEN FINGERS still intact; hard to find any more incentive to be careful than THAT :thumbsup:

Wow, that got a LOT more windy than I intended :eek: - hopefully it answered SOME of the questions... Steve
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,968  
Looking at the video someone posted to that of the snap ring for the front axle, that is one serious snap ring! With the cussing I've done at snap ring pliers it almost makes me want to get one of those sets...

If they are even close in quality to the ICON 1/2" drive torque wrench, I say buy them (I may get a set myself after watching the video). My ICON 1/2" drive clicker wrench is more accurate than my 4 times the price Snap-On (I tested both on left and right hand torque using a digital torque meter and the ICON wrench consistently out performed the Snap-On. Anyone need a nice Snap-On 1/2 drive clicker? I'll let go for 300, case included. I paid just north of 400 for it and it has a recent certification as well. Just taking up space now.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #13,970  
I will never order from HF online again. First time I tried was to order the 12" sliding mitre saw. They came back a week later and said it was backordered and had no ETA.
I immediately called a HF store and they had one left in stock. I picked it up and replied the same day more than ten days ago to HF customer service to please cancel the order since I had bought the exact item locally and they had no idea when it would come in. Well, they shipped it to me today, and when I called, they confirmed they had my request to cancel, but it was only a "request" and not a guaranteed cancellation, whatever that means, and therefore nothing apparently was done. What terrible customer service. I have a very bad back and this is a very heavy box to deal with.
Aggravating beyond words that they would acknowledge my request more than a week ago but did absolutely nothing in response.

Btw, the saw is fine.
 

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