Ground clearance

[newbury]

I've got to get an engine with implements to move dirt and dig stuff out in wooded areas on my retirement-to-be 300+ acres in Mississippi. And I'm located in the Washington DC area where we only see tractors during protests.
Sounds like a TLB or a tractor plus a loader plus a BH.
One of the problems I've run across is determining the ground clearance on vehicles to carry that engine. For example many of the specs on the Kubota web page don't mention clearance for TLB's, but do for tractors. And from what I've gleaned here the "tractors" tend to have a higher ground clearance than the TLB's.
Knowing the land I've got (boots on ground) higher is better, I've only moderate hills so tipping is not a major problem, unlike my land in Vermont.
Does anyone have links to specs with ground clearance for JD, Kubota, Mahindra, MF, and NH?
Like she said - that extra couple of inches is important.

 

[nybirdman]

they don't list the ground clearance because it depends what tires are on the tractor,agricultural(R 1) are the tallest, industrial(R 4) ,not as tall but wider, then turf tires shortest but widest.Ag tires are for field work I.E best traction in mud,turfs for lawns(spreads the weight out),industrials are a compromise but offer good punture resistence.

 

[flusher]

I've got to get an engine with implements to move dirt and dig stuff out in wooded areas on my retirement-to-be 300+ acres in Mississippi. And I'm located in the Washington DC area where we only see tractors during protests.
Sounds like a TLB or a tractor plus a loader plus a BH.
One of the problems I've run across is determining the ground clearance on vehicles to carry that engine. For example many of the specs on the Kubota web page don't mention clearance for TLB's, but do for tractors. And from what I've gleaned here the "tractors" tend to have a higher ground clearance than the TLB's.
Knowing the land I've got (boots on ground) higher is better, I've only moderate hills so tipping is not a major problem, unlike my land in Vermont.
Does anyone have links to specs with ground clearance for JD, Kubota, Mahindra, MF, and NH?
Like she said - that extra couple of inches is important.

My 2008 Mahindra 5525 is a pretty typical small ag tractor (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto) with ag tires

The bottom of the rear axle is about 19" above grade. However, the support bracket for the drawbar is only 13" high. You can remove it and the drawbar if you need more clearance. However, then the attach points for the 3pt hitch lower arms limit you to only 16" clearance.

The limiting height on the 5525 is the steering cylinder for the front wheels which has 14" clearance. You can see that cylinder in this photo.

So, realistically, 12"-13" is your working clearance for the 5525.
Hope this helps.

 

[IslandTractor]

Like she said - that extra couple of inches is important.

I think you'll find that for a given tractor size there is not more than a couple of inches difference at the very most and usually much less. My Kioti DK40 has about 15 inches listed but once you add the subframe for a BH that figure drops by a couple if I am recalling correctly.

In any case, it's not the size of the army but the fury of the attack.

 

[flusher]

they don't list the ground clearance because it depends what tires are on the tractor,agricultural(R 1) are the tallest, industrial(R 4) ,not as tall but wider, then turf tires shortest but widest.Ag tires are for field work I.E best traction in mud,turfs for lawns(spreads the weight out),industrials are a compromise but offer good punture resistence.

You're absolutely correct. Tractors can be set up for various clearances. Here are two extremes:

My 1964 MF-135 diesel has been lowered into this squat configuration for orchard work by using shorten front wheel spindles and 16" dia rear rims instead of the usual 28" rims on ag tires. The centerline of the rear axle is 20" above grade and the width of the rear track to the outside of the tires is 83" wide.

At the other extreme, my 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF gasser is set up for row crop work. The rear axle centerline is 30" above grade and the rear track is 57" wide. It has a bull gear configuration on the rear axle to give increased clearance.

 

[WilliamBos]

Nice. DO you have more shots of that 135?? side shot maybe??

You're absolutely correct. Tractors can be set up for various clearances. Here are two extremes:

My 1964 MF-135 diesel has been lowered into this squat configuration for orchard work by using shorten front wheel spindles and 16" dia rear rims instead of the usual 28" rims on ag tires. The centerline of the rear axle is 20" above grade and the width of the rear track to the outside of the tires is 83" wide.

At the other extreme, my 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF gasser is set up for row crop work. The rear axle centerline is 30" above grade and the rear track is 57" wide. It has a bull gear configuration on the rear axle to give increased clearance.

 

[flusher]

Nice. DO you have more shots of that 135?? side shot maybe??

Here's the side view

I rotated the exhaust system from horizontal to vertical since I want to use this orchard tractor in my hayfield. It's not the correct muffler which is somewhat smaller in size. I have that replacemnt muffler but haven't had a chance to install it so far.

 

[WilliamBos]

I LOVE the Rubber on that. I would love to get a set of rear rims/tires identical to that for our 35 once the resto is done.

What size are those rears??

Here's the side view

I rotated the exhaust system from horizontal to vertical since I want to use this orchard tractor in my hayfield. It's not the correct muffler which is somewhat smaller in size. I have that replacemnt muffler but haven't had a chance to install it so far.

 

[flusher]

I LOVE the Rubber on that. I would love to get a set of rear rims/tires identical to that for our 35 once the resto is done.

What size are those rears??

Those rear tires are BF Goodrich Silvertown 18.4 x 16A 6-ply.
Someone remarked that they look like tires from a combine.

 

[tommu56]

Most TLB's don't have to drive over much the loader would be used to flatten it out unless ground is muddy or soft that is a whole different story.

tom

 

[newbury]

For example:
http://www.kubota.com/f/products/BX1850specs.pdf
ground clearance 9 inches
http://www.kubota.com/F/products/GL40/pdf/gl40_spec.pdf
ground clearance 14 inches
but it's not listed on the TLB's.
I'd rather get a tractor with clearance than get a machine stuck.

 

[john_bud]

For example:
http://www.kubota.com/f/products/BX1850specs.pdf
ground clearance 9 inches
http://www.kubota.com/F/products/GL40/pdf/gl40_spec.pdf
ground clearance 14 inches
but it's not listed on the TLB's.
I'd rather get a tractor with clearance than get a machine stuck.

The ag tractors with a backhoe mounted will normally have LESS clearance than an industrial designed for the hoe. You didn't see that in the specs, but it's typically what you will find.

The machines you listed are not (IMHO) large enough for your 300 acre property.

Look at the Kubota M59 TLB, Deere 110 (or Yanmar equivalent - same factory) for mid-sized new. Or you can buy a used large industrial machine for the same money with 1500-3000 hours. Case 580 series or Deere 310 or 410 would git it done.

The only thing is most large industrial TLB's don't have the ability to remove the BH and don't have 3pt arms or PTO. The M59 does have 3pt and pto and I think the deere 110 does too.

[URL/]http://www.kubota.com/f/products/M59/pdf/m59_spec.pdf[/url] - this link shows the M59 TLB to have 13.8" of ground clearance.

As you are not a tractor experienced person, I would recommend you get the largest Kubota Grand L with HST transmission and 4wd. (Or the M59 - Yes, I am an Kubota fan). Of the current generation of tractors, Kubota has the best HST transmission in the Grand L -40 series. Deere is a close second. Others will advocate for other colors and shades of paint. That's ok, there are a lot of choices and multiple choices are a good thing in our soon to be outlawed free market economy. If you won't be going thru the woods a lot, a cab tractor with AC may be a blessing in the summer.

The best deciding factor is not ground clearance, lifting specs, hp or transmission. It's how well your butt feels in the seat. If the machine "just feels right", that's normally the one for you. I would also say that most people will buy a too small first tractor. Trust me, they shrink dramatically in the first 6 months.

Enjoy the shopping experience!

jb

 

[dodge man]

I agree with John Bud, I wouldn't base my buying decision on a couple of inches of ground clearance. Like he said, I good used TLB from Case, Deere, Cat etc can be had for maybe 20k in good shape. It will have alot more power than a tractor with an end loader and backhoe. It will also be pretty much useless after you are done with the heavy work since you can't hook up implements to it, such as mowers, box blades, etc. Alot of it depends on exactly what kind of work you will be doing on your place. Do you know anybody with some knowledge of tractors, backhoes etc.? They could help you look.

 

[AKfish]

I considered having my JD 110 shipped across the country when I bought it. So, I have an Adobe Acrobat file that details all the dimensions for the TLB.

The ground clearance below the front axle is about 12 inches. However, the rest of the machine is about 20 inches (that includes the space for the belly pan).

As john_bud and others have stated - get enough machine for the job at hand - 300 acres will "shrink" most machines; considerably.

AKfish

 

[MossRoad]

Don't forget about flotation, too. For instance, a tractor with really tall tires and great ground clearance may sink in the mud compared to a tractor with less ground clearance but wider tires or even dual tires. Lots of things to consider when choosing.

 

[BarryinMN]

Ground clearance is more of an irritant than a big deal as it is one of the few machines that you can literally pick it up and move between the front bucket and hoe.

For winter storage I walk the machine flush to a sidewall on a concrete floor barn.

It's far easier than trying to unstick a dozer or skidsteer.

 

[tractorman99]

If your want a high ground clearance Than Mccormick C Max High Clearance .



McCormick USA HOME

 

[newbury]

The ag tractors with a backhoe mounted will normally have LESS clearance than an industrial designed for the hoe. You didn't see that in the specs, but it's typically what you will find.

The machines you listed are not (IMHO) large enough for your 300 acre property.

<snip>

Thanks, john_bud, first I just grabbed those specs as an example. I realize that the tractors I'm looking at are on the small side, but the land is in several different non-contiguous parcels so I want the flexibility of towing it around without getting a CDL. So I need to keep it under about 7K lbs. So most of the tractors I'm looking at are in the 25 to 35 HP range.

And dodge man - I know many tractor people - all here!
But I've also relatives in the retirement area with tractors that I'm getting advice from, but they view anything under 100hp as a toy. They primarily raise beef and horses. I'm going to be retired and raising trees and deer.

I'm wanting to start small, but know I will need an FEL, a BH, a box blade, and a PHD.

I wasn't making ground clearance a high ranking point, I was just frustrated that it isn't always reported.

 

[john_bud]

... so I want the flexibility of towing it around without getting a CDL. So I need to keep it under about 7K lbs. So most of the tractors I'm looking at are in the 25 to 35 HP range.

You may want to double check the CDL requirements in the state you are in. The Federal requirement is 26,001 pounds or more for the truck+load. Or combined 26,001 pounds or more when the trailer is OVER 10,001 pounds. Few states require a CDL of any class justbecause you tow a trailer of 10,001 pounds.

You can typically tow upwards of a 14-18,000 pound trailer and stay under the 26,001 combined total weight. You do want to stay within the capabilities of the towing vehicle. If you have a 2500 or 3500 class truck, you can typically geta 10,000 pound tractor and still be able to tow it on a 3500 to 4500 pound trailer. The Kubota L5740 with FEL and BH or the M59 both are under 9000 pounds.

Also, check the "loop holes" that exist in the law for farm trucks/trailers. At 300 acres of land, you should easily qualify as a farm.

jb

 

[Midsouth]

That is right on on the weights. I live in MS and have a CDL but that is because the wife and i drive over the road for a living. As long as you stay under 26,001 lbs and keep trl under 10,000 you will not need a CDL. What part of MS is your land in. Just wondering as we might be close to each other.