grapple on forks?

jimmysisson · Feb 19, 2006

I can't seem to find this in Search, maybe someone can direct me.
I've got a sturdy set of forks I use for moving logs and brush. Brush seems to easily slide off when I'm going over bumps so I've been thinking to add a set of arms to hydraulically clamp down on the load. I think I can build a pair, with a cylinder to run each, teed together and run from the remote valve with long hoses, as I run the power angle on my snow plow.
What I wonder is, has anyone used a combination like this? Logs are no sweat, but for picking up and holding onto brush? I have no need of a root grapple, I just want to hold stuff from sliding off the forks. Fork tines are 4' long, tractor is 6000 lbs., loaded rears.
Also, these forks are mounted on a piece of bar stock maybe 1½" dia. They swing free when the "bucket" is dumped, so you can slide each fork sideways adjust the width. When dumping brush onto a burn pile, that free-swing is a pain as forks get stuck in the tangle. Anyone come up with an idea for holding them to the frame without doing so permanently, ie so you could adjust them if necessary?
The pic shows the forks and frame, with arrows where I think I'd pivot the clamping grapple arms, and a little box crudely drawn on top of the frame where I'd pivot the cylinders.
This is in the early planning stage where I could use some advice. Thanks in advance, Jim

1savoy · Feb 19, 2006

Jimmysisson,

Here is a set of forks sold by Horst Welding with a grapple. I saw a set at a steam show last year and they looked really nice. I just bought an old set of forks, off a forklift, similar to yours and plan to do about the same as you are. To keep the forks from swinging out, the forks I have looked at have a piece of flat stock standing up near the bottom of the framework, with an L welded onto the back of the fork that will slide over the flat stock to adjust the width. I hope this makes sense. The flat stock on yours could go above or below the box tube at the bottom of your framework. I think I would prefer to have it on the bottom for strength when using the forks to push down on something. I will post a picture if I can find one.

Grapple Forks

Good luck,
Russ

1savoy · Feb 19, 2006

My link did not work. Try this.

Grapple Forks

1savoy · Feb 19, 2006

Not a great picture, but I think you can see it OK on the bottom.

beenthere · Feb 19, 2006

jimmy
Looking at your pic attachment, reminded me of what I have done when using my forks to carry brush a ways away.

I toss a heavy chain over the top and use the weight of the chain to keep the load from bouncing. Your large hook would work ideal for a heavy log chain to be used that way.

Just something to consider for the brief but important times hauling brush.

1savoy · Feb 19, 2006

You may want to take a look at this link. It is a grapple for sale on EBay. Scroll down and it shows a couple of pictures with the grapple on a set of forks.

Grapple

PineRidge · Feb 19, 2006

The grapple fork looks like a handy idea. Thought about adding them to our forks because we get a lot of pallets of merchandise that come into us that are loosely stacked and on the tipsy side. Figured the forks might be a good way to stabilize the load but unfortunately here lately we have also seen a lot more semi's bringing merchandise to us that have the pallets double stacked. there is just enough room to lift the top pallet and clear the roof of the container and at that point the grapple height might become a hindrance rather than a benefit to us.

Jw5875 · Feb 19, 2006

A suggestion ie. On each end of the frame, weld a piece of steel
approx. 6" square with a 1" overlap on the frame ends. Then attach a piece of 1/2" cold rolled steel bar between these ends as they extend about 1/2 inch in front of the fork up rights. The forks now adjust to width and will not "Roll Out" when you try to tilt forward to "Dump" brush.

jw5875

Maine_Polack · Feb 19, 2006

Perhaps this might interest you.

Tractors4u · Feb 20, 2006

Here is a grapple on forks rig that I built. Grapple with Forks

jinman · Feb 20, 2006

( Here is a grapple on forks rig that I built. )

Brent, I don't know how I missed that you put a Tatro grapple on your forks, but I did. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif It's a darn nice job! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

One thing happened to me lately that you might keep your eyes on. With the grapple fully open, you can bump it and make the cylinder go overcenter. I was trying to crush a brush pile when it happened to me. If I'd had the grapple just closed slightly, it would not have happened. There was no damage and I just tapped out one of the pins to remove it and reinstalled the cylinder. I've been really happy with my grapple. It's the perfect addition to my rock bucket. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Tractors4u · Feb 20, 2006

Thanks for the heads up. I wish I had a rock bucket right now. We are moving into our new house and I am in the process of landscaping the yard. I am having to deal with the rocks that came out when the basement was dug. That bucket would be handy.

jimmysisson · Feb 21, 2006

Thanks to everyone for responses. I like the idea of the rod holding the forks from dumping, and can add that easily. Also I like the looks of tractors4u's grapple arms - they open wide and clamp tight, just the thing for brush. The arms will help stop anything from sliding down the loader arms, too. Will I need to restrict the fluid to make the grapple cylinder(s) close slower? I imagine the geometry matters in the distance between arm pivot pins and cylinder pins plus the arc of the arm travel. Anyone have an opinion on one pair vs. two separate arms with separate cylinders? More complexity, more capability, the usual tradeoff? I'll post pix when I get to building.
Thanks again, Jim

Tractors4u · Feb 21, 2006

( Will I need to restrict the fluid to make the grapple cylinder(s) close slower? )

I was concerned about this myself because I had heard many people talk about the grapple moving too fast. I don't have one on mine and I have had no problems. It doesn't seem to move that fast to me.

PineRidge · Feb 21, 2006

We needed a restrictor as our grapple moved way to fast to suit us otherwaise.

beenthere · Feb 21, 2006

You can get more adjustment with a 'flow control' valve than a 'restrictor'. Go to SurplusCenter.com and look up #9-5989

That fits in a 3/8 npt line and has good adjustment. Flow is unrestricted in one direction, so two are needed if 'too fast' is a problem opening the finger(s).

Look forward to the fabrication.

PineRidge · Feb 21, 2006

( You can get more adjustment with a 'flow control' valve than a 'restrictor'. Go to SurplusCenter.com and look up #9-5989

That fits in a 3/8 npt line and has good adjustment. Flow is unrestricted in one direction, so two are needed if 'too fast' is a problem opening the finger(s).

Look forward to the fabrication. )

That's very true as we have two $24.00 flow control valves on our snow plow to slow down the single action cylinders. However we purchased a single inexpensive restrictor with the smallest orifice (less than 4 bucks) then drilled it so that we got the speed that we were happy with for the grapple. And we only needed one restrictor as well since we were dealing with a double acting cylinder on the grapple.

Just another way of doing things.

rp425 · Feb 25, 2006

Check out this link: http://www.arrowforklift.com/skid-steer-grapple-pallet-forks.html

jimmysisson · Feb 26, 2006

rp - thanks for the link. Those Arrow clamps have about the same relationship between arm pivot and cylinder pin as I'm planning. I'm surprised the closed clamp protrudes below the forks - I'd think it would get knocked all the time. Still it gives them a tighter clamp size - always tradeoffs.
Jim