Grapple Advice

   / Grapple Advice #1  

ritcheyvs

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
1,932
Location
Kittrell, NC
Tractor
Kioti DK45S
I've been thinking that a grapple would be very handy. But they come in various widths and there also seem to be two types: long lower tines and short ones. What is the collective wisdom on width and configuration? What is important in a grapple? Finally, does a diverter valve (on the loader) worth the cost vs running hoses from a rear remote?
 
   / Grapple Advice #2  
I've been thinking that a grapple would be very handy. But they come in various widths and there also seem to be two types: long lower tines and short ones. What is the collective wisdom on width and configuration? What is important in a grapple? Finally, does a diverter valve (on the loader) worth the cost vs running hoses from a rear remote?

Oh, boy.. I best go buy some more popcorn. Gonna need it.

No, collective wisdom. Just a lot of differing opinions. Wanna hear mine?:D

L shaped grapple. Narrow width. Single lid. Run hoses from rear remote on a Kioti as its control valve is convenient to use (especially after you lengthen it.)

installed 2.jpginstalled 1.jpgin use.jpgIMG_20140401_161949_520.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ects-loader-torque.html?highlight=torque+tube

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ontrol-valve-lever.html?highlight=torque+tube
 
   / Grapple Advice
  • Thread Starter
#3  
James, Thanks. Much to consider, especially in those threads. Avoiding (or at least deferring) a diverter valve has appeal as apace for a valve looks tight. I'm at the early stages of this so I'd like to hear pros, and cons and actual experiences (so I can make my own new mistakes).
 
   / Grapple Advice #4  
I've been thinking that a grapple would be very handy. But they come in various widths and there also seem to be two types: long lower tines and short ones. What is the collective wisdom on width and configuration?

Any grapple is better than no grapple, but a Wicked Grapple is better than any grapple!
For what it's worth, that's my :2cents:. :D

On a more serious note, James is right. The opinions that you get will be various and strong in all directions.
L Shaped is BY FAR the most popular.
Single lid is cheaper than Dual lid. People with single lid grapples are as content as the people with dual lid grapples.
Narrow grapples are cheaper than wide grapples. People with narrow grapples are as content as those with wide grapples.
The Wicked Grapple for compact tractors is extremely strong and the weight is ideal. Your lift capacity will be maximized.
There are cheaper ones out there, but take a close look. The value in our grapples is not hard to find.

I'm not biased either way because we have them all covered, but here is the strongest point that someone recommending a dual lid grapple will make.
Travis

72dualL3540s.jpg
 
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   / Grapple Advice #5  
When I choose a grapple I looked at what others in the area had and how they were using them. I got a Land Pride SGC1560 and had a new joy stick installed with the controls on it. It has a WR Long third function valve installed. Its a single lid grapple and has done everything I want to do. I never have the occasion to move a root wad like pictured above. I gather up brush, limbs,small trees, appropriate sized big chunks of pine trees and the occasional very large boulder. I also use the unit to "back drag" and loosen, level and move the ultra hard sod.

I've found that this grapple is extremely heavy duty and is able to hold up under some very difficult situations. That being said - the grapple is quite heavy(820 lbs) due to its materials and construction. I would rather have a HD grapple and loose a little lifting capacity than one of lighter build and have it twist up like a pretzel.

The breakdown on price is - - grapple - $3175 third function valve and installation - $1975. View attachment 452779

Another item - modify the grill guard. It not nice to get a stick poked thru and into the radiator. View attachment 452780

You may think your are going to be very careful, and you probably will be. However, you will find that its ever so easy for the wayward branch, stick, stob to find its way past your grill and on thru the radiator or battery.
 
   / Grapple Advice #6  
James, Thanks. Much to consider, especially in those threads. Avoiding (or at least deferring) a diverter valve has appeal as apace for a valve looks tight. I'm at the early stages of this so I'd like to hear pros, and cons and actual experiences (so I can make my own new mistakes).

Ritch, I think the only constant is that most people are happy with their grapple install now matter what it is or how it is set up.

I will say this, I set my EA grapple up with using the rear remote and after lengthening the control valve lever it worked far better than I could have even hoped. It is very convenient to use and I like the ability to "feather" the clamping pressure as you can do with any manually controlled valve. The reason I like to do this is that it allows me to pickup small limbs and small rocks without crushing them. I don't think you are going to be able to do that quite as well with an electric/hydraulic setup.

I set up with the rear remote in the beginning as a cheap "stop gap" method to get me going and thinking if need be I would switch to a electric/hydraulic control valve at a later time. But after having used it for some time. I have zero desire to do this. And not just because of the expense, but because I am so very satisfied with how the grapple operates with my current setup.
 
   / Grapple Advice #7  
James, Rich mentioned a diverter valve, and just so that everyone knows, a diverter valve provides the exact same feathering ability that you mentioned regarding your rear remote. It is the true 3rd function valves where feathering is more of a problem.

Riches problem for control wise is that he has already used up his 2 rear remotes. So he either has to always be disconnecting one of his "T&T" cylinders or he needs a separate source.

My vote is the diverter valve off of the curl circuit of the loader. Install the valve on the loader tower between the tower and hood. Super clean installation and everything is protected. :thumbsup:
 
   / Grapple Advice #8  
James, Rich mentioned a diverter valve, and just so that everyone knows, a diverter valve provides the exact same feathering ability that you mentioned regarding your rear remote. It is the true 3rd function valves where feathering is more of a problem.

Riches problem for control wise is that he has already used up his 2 rear remotes. So he either has to always be disconnecting one of his "T&T" cylinders or he needs a separate source.

My vote is the diverter valve off of the curl circuit of the loader. Install the valve on the loader tower between the tower and hood. Super clean installation and everything is protected. :thumbsup:

Yes, you make good points, that a diverter gives you the same control as you have a mechanical valve to "feather" with unlike 3rd function electric/hydraulic valve with push button open/close.

Another option since he has used up his 2 rear remotes with TNT is to "multiply" one of his rear remotes so that he has 3 rear remotes by using one of your electric/hydraulic valve kits to gain that extra rear remote and he could still use the remote SCV for his control. This could be placed on the back of the tractor where there should be room for it. Of course he may prefer the idea of using the loader joystick for lid opening and closing and having a momentary pushbutton to change the function of the curl/dump function. It is what ever pleases him the most, lots of ways to skin the hydraulic kitty.:)
 
   / Grapple Advice #9  
. It is what ever pleases him the most, lots of ways to skin the hydraulic kitty.:)

Can't agree more. Lots of ways this can be done with none of them being right or wrong, just different. ;)
 
   / Grapple Advice #10  
I recently got a grapple for my L3700. I looked at numerous different sizes and shapes before deciding on this. .. I bought and installed a WR long 3rd function valve. ( very easy ) and it was about 800.00 with all hoses brackets and connectors. I then turned to the grapple choices, Keeping in mind how often I would be using it and what for, I decided in a skeleton bucket design, that is also known as a rock bucket. (72" wide. ) single lid and the back is see through which is a enormous help when picking up stuff. The bucket itself is a Tomohawk brand, it is not "industrial strength but more that adequate for my needs. Because it is significantly lighter than many other type buckets, it allows me to lift heavier objects.
 

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