Price Check Grand L6060HSTC 4x4 ordered two days ago - hope I made the right call!

[JethroB]

I agree the menus stink. Heck after over a year all my settings are still set to metric. When I finally make it to my property I have stuff I want to get done and don稚 want to spend 30 minutes with a manual trying to figure out how to switch to units my brain can comprehend. I am happy with Grand L but the menu and hard to push differential lock are two things that bug me.

Changing from metric is pretty simple but it is not in the owners manual:

 

[buck12]

Changing from metric is pretty simple but it is not in the owners manual:View attachment 674869

Thanks. I took a screenshot and will give it a try.

 

[pokey1416]

I leave my HST responsiveness set in the middle. JDs have a dedicated knob for that so you can adjust it on the fly. The Kubota menus suck enough you generally play with it a bit then never touch it again after the first week. In all fairness there is a good chance I wouldn't have messed with the sensitivity on a JD after the first week, even with a dedicated knob.

I've got mine set to -2, being a "senior citizen" I'm not quite as responsive as I once was :confused2:

 

[jonsstihl]

there is a fix for the stiff diff lock pedal someone changed the spring. it was on a 40 series but I doubt they changed the spring on the 60 series I will try to find a link to the thread.

 

[jonsstihl]

here is the link page 2 post #17 is where it gets interesting.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/228484-5740-dif-lock-lever.html

 

[MHarryE]

Reading early part of this thread and broken NH reminds me of the Farmall H loader tractor my dad bought in 1941 and was our sole loader tractor until I graduated from a university and deserted the farm. Narrow front, rear wheel drive only, my cousin and I tended to overdo it trying to get a full bucket. Bucket in pile, rear wheels driving, front end raises the wheels up as the rears dig in and torque to the rear wheels means something has to give. Step on the cutch and the front crashes down. Even tough the Farmall center housing is a deep and heavy casting, it’s not bulletproof when your crew is 2 child labor farm workers. Dad was an excellent welder, kept it repaired using nickel rod on the cast iron housing. The Farmall bucket being trip instead of hydraulic curl made this a real problem on Farmall. I look at other used Farmall H & M equipped with the Farmall loader and see we aren’t the only ones to break the housing.

 

[dhjmd]

Like a glove! There is literally an inch on each side of the mower, guess I would rather be lucky than good any day :cool2:

 

[JethroB]

Nice storage solutions!

 

[buck12]

Like a glove! There is literally an inch on each side of the mower, guess I would rather be lucky than good any day :cool2:

Making use of every inch. I keep my tractor in a shipping container and it is a tight squeeze.

 

[JethroB]

Making use of every inch. I keep my tractor in a shipping container and it is a tight squeeze.

Knowing me, I would tap that 4x4 post a little too hard and would be wearing a snare drum around my neck.

 

[dhjmd]

Knowing me, I would tap that 4x4 post a little too hard and would be wearing a snare drum around my neck.

Lol!

Finally got around to taking some pics of the disc harrow and the grader scraper...

 

[kwbretired]

What is the small middle buster in the center of the disk for, never saw that before?

 

[dhjmd]

What is the small middle buster in the center of the disk for, never saw that before?

Its called a, center sweep. Purpose is to knock down the windrow that is often left down the middle by the front gang.

 

[kwbretired]

Thanks.

 

[dhjmd]

Hi all - been a while since posting . Recently ordered a BH92 for this unit and included the hydraulic thumb. I didn’t initially worry about getting the quick attach and buckets but have since changed my mind. I just happened across some post about the two (hydraulic thumb and quick attach) not being compatible. Is that true? My dealer hasn’t said anything about so I’m wondering if I read the post incorrectly…?

 

[pokey1416]

I don’t have an answer for you on that but you’re gonna like that BH. Check your subframe bolts after awhile of use, I had a few that needed to be torqued up. I have the QA bucket and have the 18” toothed bucket and I ordered a 16” and removed the teeth, for a flat face. The thumb tines still work fine with the 16”. Have fun!

 

[dhjmd]

Thanks Pokey, will be sure to do that. On your 16” bucket, when you say you removed the teeth…I assume you ground the mounting stubs flush to get a flat bucket edge?

 

[pokey1416]

Thanks Pokey, will be sure to do that. On your 16” bucket, when you say you removed the teeth…I assume you ground the mounting stubs flush to get a flat bucket edge?

Home - Werk-Brau

Yes, my fab guy did it and said it was a little bit of a PITA. Werk Brau used to make buckets for Kubota (I heard) and they may have a flat face already. The 16” tooth bucket from Kubota is around $1,100. I got it for $900 a couple years ago. Don’t go less than 16” or you’ll have trouble getting the bucket to empty.