Grading--what am I doing to cause this?

   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #61  
You can also utilize the float feature on your bucket to smooth after you have graded. Pretty sure your tractor has this feature and you use the tilt on your bucket to drag the heal a little or tip it down to cut flat.
The above suggestions are all valid, go slow, add some weight, be sure to crown, don't be afraid to adjust your angles, both on the blade and the 3 point and top link. Adjusting the top link longer will give more cut, shorter will be more plow or bulldozer type, so depending on how much you need to dig will determine what is needed.
Just from the small picture, I would guess not much is needed, like deep potholes, so the top link should be shorter so you don't get as much dig, and when crowning, be sure not to lower your blade all the way. That will bring more of the side media towards the center of the road, and will reduce that lump between runs
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #62  
Slower, also adjust top link (longer) to change the angle of attack....which you will need to adjust the tilt of the blade as well after the top is moved.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #63  
My opinion: slow down, put weight on your blade (several cement blocks, wired on), angle >30 degrees. As mentioned in several posts, the rocks are making the ripples occur. The other thing you mentioned was digging in. That might be that your tractor is "falling" into a slight dip that you cannot so easily see, and then the blade is inherently lowered. Hope this helps
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this?
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Yee Gods - and I thought my "mixer" was unique. LD1 is correct. The horseshoe thing - it's a stand-off to hold hydraulic hoses. If I would have opted for the hydraulic version. My Rhino is 100% manual. There is another one - at the front end.

You can see them both in this shot. View attachment 725320
It's always important to try to see things from different pespectives. I'm sticking with levitating horseshoe, it's a lot more interesting.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #65  
I'd say you have a few rocks that you are bouncing over.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this?
  • Thread Starter
#66  
It's a typical owners manual tube.

LOTS of newer equipment (pretty much anything in the last 20 years) has or had one
Most of my stuff is used so I guess it's very used. Not really though, 20 years isn't all that long for solid well-built stuff.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #67  
The amount of input to this thread indicates one of the primary uses of compact tractors. I suspect that mowing and/or "bushhogging" would be at the top of the list but roadway maintenance would be very close to the top.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this?
  • Thread Starter
#68  
In my experience I've learned to use the front of the blade to cut and pull towards the center for a crown then for a finish grade turn the blade around backwards for a final smoother Floating grade. All grading is at a 30-45% angle. I do cut the washboards out then spread the dirt back out. Weight is key, my rhino weighs in at almost 1000#. Cutting is done slow, 5-8 mph while finish floating can be faster. I do not use a box blade. If you have rear remotes a hydraulic top link helps a lot. Practice makes perfect.
View attachment 725327
I've never tried the blade backwards, others have mentioned it and it's a simple obvious thing I should have thought of. Turning the blade around I have done but for going backwards. 'Floating', does that mean you have a hydraulic top link in float?

Edit--your link isn' working for me, says I don't have permission. Would pretty please help?
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this? #69  
Try a land plane. Two blades are better than one! Notice they are angled for a reason. Angling the box blade will help if a land plane is not an option.
 
   / Grading--what am I doing to cause this?
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Hate to say it but that is your solution.

For a proper solution rip/scarify the entire surface of the road to break up the hard pan. Then angle the back blade. Have it tilted slightly backward and up at the trailing edge and then roll a windrow of material back and forth across the road till it’s smooth And the windrow gets spread out. Then pack it if possible. Gage wheels allow you to do this.
Gauge wheels, there's that video but that looked like a really expensive add-on, could you do something more like what's on brushhogs?
 
 
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