Grading Grading blade recomendations

[CurtisC]

I've recently purchased a B26TLB and have 1/2 mile gravel drive to maintain. Most of the grade is 8-10% with some steeper sections. The road bed and drainage ditchs contain a lot of rock (two sections required blasting). The maintenance work includes ditches as well as scraping and after numerous concrete trucks, etc its in need of some shaping (crowning) and run off cuts (in my novice opinion) before bringing in new gravel to replace what I've lost to errosion. With the use of the hoe as up hill counter weight I've been able to carefully work the across the slope of the road and scoop out the ditches with the FEL (love the 8 ft turning radius). However, a rear mounted offset/angled GB would seem to be the best way to clean them up after the excess material is removed, add some crown to the road where water doesn't drain well, and scrape the high and low spots. Additionally I want to be able to do some cut and fill work to level out some hillside areas.

I'm looking for recommendations on brand, model and size of blade for the machine? Is a GB the best option? I'd love to have both box and grading blades but budget is a concern.
Thanks,

 

[nybirdman]

I have and use a rear grader blade and a box blade both BUSH-HOG branded.Sounds like the rear grader blade would work for you,buy one that can be off-set and tilted.They will be medium or heavy duty.Mine is a 50-06 which is a Medium duty(44hp tractor) seven ft.Also offered by Woods and Landpride and others.Check weights...heavier is better.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well, you definitely need a blade that can be offset. Problem is that I don't know if there is one that will work properly on your tractor for what you need to do. This Land Pride RB3572 may work for you, but the overall size may not be what your looking for.

Good luck

 

[thetooth]

I have a woods rb60 that is very well made it also has a tilt option but I have yet to try it . I paid around $500.00 from a local dealer .

I only use the blade for snow removal , it worked well this past winter for clearing the drive way .

 

[Mpking]

I've actually had a hard time finding an offset blade at a dealer that wasn't outrageously expensive. Got a quote of $1300 on a woods HBL84 rear blade. Extremely well built for sure, but more than I needed. Consequently, I'm looking at one of these:

Medium Duty Scrape Blades

 

[CurtisC]

I've actually had a hard time finding an offset blade at a dealer that wasn't outrageously expensive. Got a quote of $1300 on a woods HBL84 rear blade. Extremely well built for sure, but more than I needed. Consequently, I'm looking at one of these:

Medium Duty Scrape Blades

Seems to be a good fit for work I've got and you're right about how quick the price goes up on offsets. I'd agree with nybirdman that heavier is probably better mainly because I don't want to fill tires for ballast each time BH comes off. Quick web search didn't turn up any info on TRI Manufacturing, heard anything good or bad about this blade?
Thanks all for the help!

 

[boggen]

since you have a FEL and BH. i would say go for a rear blade.

you can angle the blade some what by adjusting the arms on the 3pt hitch on back of tractor. which should be enough to get a crown in middle of the road way.

but if ya scrapping out ditches. you might want more angle than what you can get out of the adjusting links on the 3pt arms. but for price, and time spent. would an off set multi angle rear blade be worth it for you?

i'd say get a generic rear blade. and then save some cash back for a BB (box blade)

 

[SPYDERLK]

I've actually had a hard time finding an offset blade at a dealer that wasn't outrageously expensive. Got a quote of $1300 on a woods HBL84 rear blade. Extremely well built for sure, but more than I needed. Consequently, I'm looking at one of these:

Medium Duty Scrape Blades

Seems to be a good fit for work I've got and you're right about how quick the price goes up on offsets. I'd agree with nybirdman that heavier is probably better mainly because I don't want to fill tires for ballast each time BH comes off. Quick web search didn't turn up any info on TRI Manufacturing, heard anything good or bad about this blade?
Thanks all for the help!

I think this would be a good choice for the B sized Kubs, but Mpking -- for an L sized app it would be easily damaged.
larry

 

[jpat34721]

I just bought a Gearmore GB70 for $750 (used but in like new condition). It can be offset and tilted. It weighs about 400 lbs. so I appreciate the built-in stand. I am very happy with it. It's built like a tank. I also like that the blade can be reversed (pivots 180degs) for moving material quickly. If you can find one, you won't be disappointed.

 

[Mpking]

I think this would be a good choice for the B sized Kubs, but Mpking -- for an L sized app it would be easily damaged.
larry

Really? In the video Ted says it's rated for up to 60hp. What do you think it's weak points are? Thanks for your help.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Really? In the video Ted says it's rated for up to 60hp. What do you think it's weak points are? Thanks for your help.

A 300lb rear blade behind a 60hp tractor would be fun to watch. :laughing: It's week points are the entire product, there is not enough material there to hold up to any prolonged use. One of the other mistakes that many implement manufacturers continually make is that they rate their implements by HP when they should rate by how much weight the tractor can weigh and the implement will hold up to that weight.

Just my :2cents: based on personal experience.

 

[oldballs]

Try looking at Rhino rear blade...www.servis-rhino.com...The 300 model works good on my BX2660. It has tilt and offset but is not as big as you need for your tractor and job.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think this would be a good choice for the B sized Kubs, but Mpking -- for an L sized app it would be easily damaged.
larry

Really? In the video Ted says it's rated for up to 60hp. What do you think it's weak points are? Thanks for your help.

A 300lb rear blade behind a 60hp tractor would be fun to watch. :laughing: It's week points are the entire product, there is not enough material there to hold up to any prolonged use. One of the other mistakes that many implement manufacturers continually make is that they rate their implements by HP when they should rate by how much weight the tractor can weigh and the implement will hold up to that weight.

Just my :2cents: based on personal experience.

Mpking, MtnViewRanch is right, and puts it well saying that its all a weak point if youre using it on a tractor weighing what a 60horse tractor would weigh. Its just fine when everything goes right. You can kinda expect that if you are just moving sand and gravel. But even then youll get something that causes an unexpected load that may tweak it -- not to mention the extreme oo-p-pses that occur naturally as you get even a little more ambitious. That blade has good articulation features, but does not have the frame to withstand the forces available from more than a 2K# tractor in general all around usage. The blade will bend, the frame will twist. The wide blade options just make it more subject to damage. That spindly frame should max out on the 5' blade. Literally, the strong part of that blade is the pins. They will probably outlast it unless you keep it on a small tractor.
larry

 

[Mpking]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll look for something more sturdy.

 

[LD1]

A 300lb rear blade behind a 60hp tractor would be fun to watch. :laughing: It's week points are the entire product, there is not enough material there to hold up to any prolonged use. One of the other mistakes that many implement manufacturers continually make is that they rate their implements by HP when they should rate by how much weight the tractor can weigh and the implement will hold up to that weight.

Just my :2cents: based on personal experience.

Mpking, MtnViewRanch is right, and puts it well saying that its all a weak point if youre using it on a tractor weighing what a 60horse tractor would weigh. Its just fine when everything goes right. You can kinda expect that if you are just moving sand and gravel. But even then youll get something that causes an unexpected load that may tweak it -- not to mention the extreme oo-p-pses that occur naturally as you get even a little more ambitious. That blade has good articulation features, but does not have the frame to withstand the forces available from more than a 2K# tractor in general all around usage. The blade will bend, the frame will twist. The wide blade options just make it more subject to damage. That spindly frame should max out on the 5' blade. Literally, the strong part of that blade is the pins. They will probably outlast it unless you keep it on a small tractor.
larry

I agree. They should definatally be rated by tractor weight and NOT HP.

There are some tractors that are 40HP out there and pushing over 7000lbs. Abd there are some 60HP tractors that weigh half that at 3500lbs. BIG difference.

I think woods does, (or used to) rate there blades for HP AND max weight.
I was looking at a used Woods RB700 and the old literature said 60HP OR 6000lbs MAX:thumbsup:

And that 7' tilt/slider blade in the link would definatally be tore up by a L kubota. I had a 7 footer that was very similar. First time I used it in dirt, I saw it twist a bit. I sold it ASAP and got a heavier one. It would have been fine for snow ONLY. But serious dirt work needs a heavy blade.

 

[CurtisC]

I've actually had a hard time finding an offset blade at a dealer that wasn't outrageously expensive. Got a quote of $1300 on a woods HBL84 rear blade. Extremely well built for sure, but more than I needed. Consequently, I'm looking at one of these:

Medium Duty Scrape Blades

Has anyone got any experience with or feed back on these TRI Grading Blades? Considering a 5 footer for my B26TLB

Medium Duty Scrape Blades

 

[nspec]

Everyone always overlooks the King Kutter blades. I'm talking the professional series, not the standard. It is built extremely heavy and the price is very good. I looked at the name brands and thought the king kutter was a much better more heavily built product.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Everyone always overlooks the King Kutter blades. I'm talking the professional series, not the standard. It is built extremely heavy and the price is very good. I looked at the name brands and thought the king kutter was a much better more heavily built product.

So can you please show me the King Cutter blade that is even close to my Land Pride RBT45108, and there are others that are heavier than mine. I think that you are not comparing apples to apples. Are you comparing the KK Pro series to the light duty series that the name brands have? Remember that the name brands often have 4 and even 5 different series of blades. My blade weighs in at 1140lbs without the mud and dirt on it.

 

[LD1]

I cannot speak to the quality of the KK pro, But I do have a KK HD 7' blade. It is VERY well built and weighs 700lbs.

My old blade was just a junk typical light duty ~250lb blade, and I never managed to hurt it any. Allthough I had welded a few posts on the frame to be able to stack 4-6 cement blocks on it just so it would dig. I dont have to do that with the new blade.

I am very impressed with how well it is built and braced. I think it is rated for like a 90HP tractor. I doubt I'll hurt it any with my little 3400 kubota.

But in general, for SCUT's and smaller CUT's, the lighter duty blades will do just fine. You can buy the cheapest and lightest blade, and you would really have to do something stupid to tear it up with a B-series kubota.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I cannot speak to the quality of the KK pro, But I do have a KK HD 7' blade. It is VERY well built and weighs 700lbs.

My old blade was just a junk typical light duty ~250lb blade, and I never managed to hurt it any. Allthough I had welded a few posts on the frame to be able to stack 4-6 cement blocks on it just so it would dig. I dont have to do that with the new blade.

I am very impressed with how well it is built and braced. I think it is rated for like a 90HP tractor. I doubt I'll hurt it any with my little 3400 kubota.

Wow. That is strange. I would think yould bend a 250 pound blade just by considering putting it on an L series Kub.

I have a Rhino HD 7' [~ to your KK i think] which I bought used and have used on my JD 2010 45HP 2wd. The blade was bowed when I got it and has been bowed more by the JD. Im sure the Mahindra would turn it into a V plow if I caught something out at the tips. Such things just happen in the range of normal use and it takes a rugged blade to resist the forces generated.
larry