Grader blade or rake

[Dcf1999]

Ok... I know this topic has been discussed many times but I can't seem to find an answer to my current situation.

I'm going to get both as they have their uses. I can only get one for now. Last night I dug up a trench to lay 4" sewer pipe to the ditch (rain gutter and sump pump drain). I used the FEL to move dirt to fill in trench but it's not all that smooth. Plus I really mucked up the ditch with the tractor as i thought it wasn't that wet (also learned that the FEL works good to help get you in-stuck, which mucked up the ditch worse lol) Anyways I want to smooth everything over real nice and "clean up" the ditch. Right now the filled trench is bumpy and un-even... I back scraped the dirt into ditch and drove over it to compact it.

What would work better in this situation... Rear blade or rake? I'm leaning toward rear blade but I've also been reading that the rake could be used for this as well.

ALSO, if I get the rear blade, what size? 5' or 6'. The 6' is only $20 more at farm and fleet. Is there a pro or con in regards to the width (I.e. 5' would be easier to manipulate, bigger is better, etc...) I'll use it for driveway work and grading around the house later on. The tractor it will be used on is a JD 2305

Like I said, I will get both eventually as I have uses for both, but for now, I can only get one.

Thanks.

 

[amigauser]

I have used a 3pt landscape rake for a similar purpose. You want either a rake or blade to be wide enough to cover your machine width when tilted all the way. I am not sure how wide a JD 2305 is? I would get a 6 foot rake as the machine should handle that fine.

Rear blades tend to be very light so other than moving snow (lots of folks use them for that) I could never see the purpose for one. A box blade works better to redistribute dirt.

 

[bcp]

I think they would work equally well to level your ditch. A benefit for leveling is that many rake makers also offer gauge wheels for much better results. Wheels are usually only offered on the largest blades.

The blade should be at least as wide as your tractor when fully angled. Multiply the size of the blade by 0.7 and you will be very close to the width when angled 45 degrees.

Bruce

 

[jeff9366]

In my opinion a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment would be entirely satisfactory for the tasks you foresee for a Rear Blade and a Landscape Rake.

T-B-N ARCHIVE: Google


RATCHET RAKE TODAY // FEL Bucket Attachment
June 9, 2016

I own both a Ratchet Rake and a Rollover Box Blade.

This post concerns Ratchet Rakes Vs. light Box Blades, such as the 60" Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds/69 pounds per foot.

I searched for the weight of kubota L3301 bucket but could not find a number. I presume L3301 bucket weighs approximately 240 pounds, extrapolating from other kubota specs. 68" Ratchet Rake weighs 88 pounds. Adding 240 + 88 = 328 pounds, pretty close to 346 pounds of BB1260 Box Blade.

In addition, the (operator controlled) weight of the FEL frame bears on the Ratchet Rake. Likewise, weight of the Three Point Hitch bears on the Box Blade. FEL frames weigh much more than ( 3X? 4X?) Three Point Hitch components. So, including some FEL weight, I guesstimate that ground contact pressure on Ratchet Rake and BB1260 would be at least equal, perhaps greater pressure on the Ratchet Rake.

Further in Ratchet Rake's favor you have articulation of bucket/RR combination in two planes from the operator's station and 1-1/2" serrated teeth on the Ratchet Rake.

Box Blade can be raised and lowered hydraulically from the operator's station. Box Blade angle of attack is adjustable via the Three Point Hitch Top Link, but not from the operator's station. Standard Box Blade does not have rippers, standard is a smooth cutting edge.

Ratchet Rake is capable of tearing up sod with its serrated teeth, the initial operation in much grading. The Ratchet Rake will not pull as large a load as a Box Blade but it may pull 30% of capacity of BB1260 per pass, with faster cycles. Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently.

This is why I feel the Ratchet Rake is superior to light Box Blades for LIGHT grading.

This is a novel assessment of the Ratchet Rake. Subject to revision and modification.

When I have heavy grading to do, I mount my 60"/625 pound (125 pounds per foot) Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade on the tractor's Three Point Hitch AND the Ratchet Rake on my FEL bucket.





RE: Rear Blade and Landscape Rake widths ~~both these implements are usually employed on an angle, seldom straight. Plan for size which will cover your tire tracks when the implement is on an angle, generally 12" to 14" wider than your rear tires. Weight is your friend when operating ground contact implements.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I may look at this a little differently.

Blades are a dime a dozen. Personally, I don't have much use for a blade. Put a wheel on the back and it becomes a different (and more useful) tool.

But a rake can do some impressive and wide ranging things. Plus, I couldn't find any good deals on used ones. That may say a bit in itself.

 

[Thomas]

At one time York offer rake grader blade combo.

 

[Dcf1999]

Ok... Thanks everyone for your replies. I think I'm going for rake. I have plenty of uses for it... Especially spring cleanup of all tree debris before mowing season starts.

Thanks for the .7 multiplier for sizing. I've searched for ever trying to figure out best size to buy (when I buy). Using that number tells me I would need a 6' size.

I like the gauge wheels so I may try to fab some up for myself. I can probably make a set for cheaper than what KK sells them for.

I wouldn't use the grader for snow as I have a blade on my atv I use. In the future I want to make a plow system (with hydraulic tilt) for the JD. Much like what JD offers with the quick connect system. I like the challange of learning and building stuff.

I do like the ratchet rake thing and saw it before. That's on my list of things to buy.

The rake makes the most sense as I will use it for a lot of things. The blade would only be used for a couple of grading projects and a driveway at my family's cabin every year or so in the spring. So I think I'm going for rake. Thanks guys!

 

[Dcf1999]

Next ?.... King Kutter or Countryline (tractor supply). KK is $80 cheaper but the Countryline looks more robust.

KK looks like angle iron where tines attach where the Countryline looks like full square tube.

 

[jeff9366]

Ratchet Rake is WAY superior to a Landscape Rake for collecting and piling debris. I own both.

 

[MF283]

Backfill, wait a few days drying time, drag with FEL, no other equipment needed, of course, you couldn't spend any money that way:ashamed:

 

[jeff9366]

Next ?.... King Kutter or Countryline (tractor supply). KK is $80 cheaper but the Countryline looks more robust.

KK looks like angle iron where tines attach where the Countryline looks like full square tube.

It is the consensus among regular contributors that ETA's Landscape Rake is the standout in the 'Category I' category. I have one with optional gauge wheels and think it is their best implement among several I have purchased from ETA. Consider it.

Countyline/Tarter Landscape Rakes have received mixed reviews here.

VIDEO: Everything Attachments Landscape Rake, Root Rake

 

[CADplans]

Whether you get a blade,, or rake,,, make sure the attachment has gauge wheels.

The gauge wheels makes all the difference when final grading loose soil or driveway material.
Without them, it is pretty tough to get a smooth finish.

 

[Industrial Toys]

That looks like a scene out of the wizard of oz, but the road isn't yellow and not made of brick. Very idyllic!

 

[LD1]

Whether you get a blade,, or rake,,, make sure the attachment has gauge wheels.

The gauge wheels makes all the difference when final grading loose soil or driveway material.
Without them, it is pretty tough to get a smooth finish.

Not gonna find may rear blade options with wheels that is sized appropriately for the machine in question.

In either case, it sounds a little pre-mature to do much with a recently closed trench? Need a few good rains and let thigns settle before you decide where dirt is needed and where it can be taken from. And even then......it will still be settling and changing a year from now.

 

[Egon]

Backfill, wait a few days drying time, drag with FEL, no other equipment needed, of course, you couldn't spend any money that way:ashamed:

Yep! Bucket works fine like that.

Gauge wheels make a great big difference. A back blade can be tilted to cut or scrape. Weight can also be added to help hold it down.

 

[bspeedy]

what you really want to do is to leave the trench piled up with a little dirt - 6-10" or so is good. It will settle a LOT over the next year so don't level it now.

 

[Dcf1999]

Wow... Thanks everyone for your input. I didn't buy anything yet but will most likely buy the rake. I'm going to get gauge wheels for it as well.

I kind of got turned off the rake when I read that it will tear up my yard. I have a lot of sticks to clean up in spring and just want to drag it around to collect them. My yard is mostly flat so the wheels should take care of that.

For now I just used the FEL to grade it and it came out awesome. I ran over the spots some to compact it. Im going to let it rain a few times and let everything settle then go back over it and add a little dirt for future settling. Now I have to wait until my ditch drys out before I tackle that mess. It's pretty rutted up from the tractor getting stuck and having to use the FEL to push me backwards to get unstuck.

 

[Fallon]

Unless you compacted that trench in 4" lifts, it will be settling for a year or 2 as others have said. Running over it with a wheel helps, but not nearly enough.

Personally i sold my back blade. I built a SSQA snow plow & got a box blade. Those do more than the back blade ever did. I could see a place for a rake in my lineup though.

 

[Dcf1999]

Personally i sold my back blade. I built a SSQA snow plow & got a box blade.

What does SSQA stand for... I assume something something quick attach? Lol I'm sorry kinda new to the SCUT terms. Had mine for less than 6 months so I'm still learning.

Reason I ask is because I'd like to build my own plow for the front. I'd use my current atv plow (maybe buy a bigger one) and fab my own quick attach system with hydraulic tilt and lift. I think I can save a lot of $$ building it myself vs buying from JD.

When I get to that point... Probably be next year, I will be asking a lot of questions on here to get ideas. I'm in the R&D stage right now.

With a toddler now and a baby girl coming in 3 weeks, I barely have time to cut the grass let alone spend a lot of time in my shop)

 

[LD1]

Skid steer