Got my first backhoe a 580b

[tresslers]

Right now I am new to heavy equipment. I got a case 580B today. It needs some work and I am hoping you guys can help me with it. I first should get an operators manual so I know how all the controls work. So am I trying to find one of these. I have seen these both in book form and in cd form which is the better one. Is the cd manual a good manual?

The machine needs work. It will start and drive, the buckets are in nice shape, the hydraulics work but some of the cylinders leak and the hoe drops pretty quickly.

The electrical is tore up on it. I will have to find a wiring diagram to repair it.

The tach does not work. Is that electrical or cable driven?

The brakes do nothing. I am guessing that the two pedals on the right are the left and right brakes. Do these have a master cylinder and where should I look for it?

I think the machine is low on hydraulic fluid, how can I check this, and what type of fluid should I use? The standard hydraulic fluid from Wal-mart?

On the right side of the machine there is something that looks like a pressure gauge? I am not sure as it is damaged? Do they have a pressure gauge on the hydraulics? Is the filter on the right side, and is it a cartridge type filter?

The engine smokes a little when I first start it up but am told this is normal. It is a diesel.

I have also saw there is a difference between a power shuttle shift and a dry clutch. Mine machine has a clutch pedal, but i don't need to push it in to change direction. I do need to push it in to change gear. What type of transmission do i have in the machine. What is the better type to have? If you guys need pictures to help me what should i take a picture of?

My first plans for the machine is to change all the fluids and filters, repair the brakes, and the cylinder leaks.

While I would like to think of myself as a pretty good mechanic, but that is just on cars and trucks, not heavy equipment. I hope you guys can help me out a bit.

I am told I should get a service manual, there are several out there from the printed manuals to ones on cd. I can use the ones on cd, but I question how good they are. There is a good price difference between a printed one and a cd.

I am on a bit of a budget, but the machine came along at a good price, or so I think. Maybe I was wrong.

I will try and get pictures up as soon as I can and as soon as I figure out how to post them.

Thanks for the help in Advance

 

[Builder]

Whew, that's a long list you've got there. Service manuals are a must. Whenever you buy an older machine, unless the previousd owner can prove he just recently serviced it, perform a complete service. Fix leaks first, then drain every reservoir, change every filter and refill. Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the fuel tank out. Grease all fittings on the fitting schedule in your manual.

Sounds like you have a shuttle shift transmission with a "reverser" on the steering column. The gauge you speak of..is it a glass sight gauge mounted on the hydraulic tank? That just tells you the level of your hydraulic fluid. I would suggest CASE hydraulic fluid made specifically for your machine when you change out your fluids.

Luckily, your machine has a simple braking system, unlike mine which requires removal of the rear axle to change the brakes.

 

[tresslers]

It seems like I need the manuals.

can anyone comment on the CD manuals they have out there for sale? good bad, etc?

 

[ScottAR]

First, welcome to TBN.

I'm in nearly the same place as you with a 580D. I've got nearly all my leaks stopped. I have a thread in the hydraulics area with a cylinder rebuild somewhere.

Get a paper shop manual. Every little detail about repairing your machine is there. Mine was quite expensive but has already helped me with an electrical problem. I should add that you can look at the parts breakdowns on
CNH>>Home for free. That's a big help too.

As to repairs, I wouldn't change the hydraulic fluid until I resealed the cylinders. You'll lose 1-2 gallons of fluid per cylinder when ya take it apart. Might as well spill old oil as new oil. The hoe dropping could be in the boom cylinders or the control valves. I'd do the cylinder first.

My D's tach is cable driven. I'm pretty sure the older ones were as well.

The master cylinders are behind the dash on the D's I dunno if there in the same place on the B's. I couldn't see a pic on CNH.com/

The smoke on startup is fairly normal. I have some smoke till the tractor warms up a minute or three.

If you can work on cars, you can work on tractors. Everything is just heavier. Hope this helps...

Edit: The hydraulic cylinder seal kits are about $20 a cylinder at the dealer.

For parts they have to order; Have them order it as part of their stock order if your not in a hurry. No shipping cost that way.

 

[Builder]

FWIW, my CASE has a nice puff of smoke on start-up, too. Nothing to worry about.

 

[tlbuser]

It seems like I need the manuals.

can anyone comment on the CD manuals they have out there for sale? good bad, etc?

I just purchased an older JD 350B track loader. JD still had the manuals available in download, cd, DVD or print. Price was from like 12.00 for the download to 89.00 for the printed copy Maybe check with your local Case dealer and see if they have a similar setup.

http://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/

 

[JiminGa]

the cd version should have everything the print version has, with the added bonus of being able to print what you need and not worrying about getting it greasy.

 

[john_bud]

Right now I am new to heavy equipment. I got a case 580B today. It needs some work and

snip



Thanks for the help in Advance

Here's a bit of a story. Ask someone that owns a boat what the word means and they will tell you it stands for "Break Out Another Thousand". "Backhoe" is similar, but higher denomination.

You should be able to do the cylinder leaks if you have the cylinder wrenches. I am not familiar with the case cylinder packings/seals, you may need a STOUT air impact and some large sockets. Plan on them being HEAVY with all caps!

You may want to get a set of 3/4 sockets and wrenches up to 2". Ox/Acc torch set with a large rose bud to loosen up stubborn stuff helps.

It won't hurt to learn some new cuss words, just to be ready...

jb

 

[ScottAR]

The bolts on the ends of the rams are 2 13/16" on the D if I remember correctly. The gland nut wrench is OTC part#1266. I understand that Case offers somthing similar. Torch is handy. I've been getting by with a propane plumber's torch but my tractor has very little rust. 4-6ft cheater helps too.

 

[tresslers]

I have the filters ordered, they should be in tomorrow. I changed the hydraulic oil the the day. The fluid that was in there was grey. I am getting the power steering hose made up so i should have that by the weekend. I ordered an operators manual and have a line on a service manual on Craigslist. So this weekend i hope to get all the other fluids changed and maybe take a look at the brakes.
I am also looking for a cheap source for replacement rear tires.
They don't have to be perfect so blems would work.

I will try and get pictures up if anyone is interested.

 

[coopers]

I will try and get pictures up if anyone is interested.

Yes please.

 

[plowrup]

I would do the Brakes as soon a you can (or not use them)-they had a ball/ramp affair, and if the lining gets too worn the balls fall out and then they take out the housings and all (sometimes explode)-not a cheap repair. Do it right-if the housings are gouged (which they generaly are), take them to a Machine Shop (or replace them) and have them machine the same amount off of the mating surface of the Housing as they do the lining surface.

also, there were many different Seal kits available for the 580B-probably the most for any Case Backhoe-I would consider buying a Parts Manual also to help in identifying them. You said the Backhoe "dropped"-please explain more.

Good luck-the 580B's were good hoes, the Hydraulic systems were good (the Pump is relatively cheap)-by the way, pay attention to the coupler on the front of the Crank taht mounts to the Pump-it should have a grease zerk on it-use a Moly grease or you will be replacing it and the Pump (not because of pump failure, the splines will be shot)-if you ever have to replace the Hydraulic Pump, don't forget to turn down the Hydraulic Pressure (located on the Loader Control Valve) BEFORE you start it-

 

[tresslers]

Brakes will be the first issue I address this weekend. Thanks for the info.
Can i use a gasket sealant in place of a gasket?

Hopefully the pump will continue to work properly. But it is good to know that they are not too bad.

On the backhoe drooping. The rear cylinder that holds the boom up, leas at the glands. so it drops over a little bit of time.

I have the travel lock on so it is ok for right now, until i want to start digging.

But replacing the fluids and the brakes are first on the list.
first the electrical system is next

can anyone get me a picture of what the gauge panel should look like. there is a button or something above the starter button that is missing. what is this and what does it do

also is the intake heater expensive? Mine is broken.
thanks

 

[tresslers]

Well I got the power steering hose fixed.
I also found out why the brakes don't work.
there are a few parts missing in the linkages. I went to cases website for parts
I need to following parts
G10708 Shaft- cross, lower brake level
126-124 woodruff Key 1/4" x 1"
A37230 Lever Brake L.H. (R.H. end of shaft)
A37231 Lever Brake R.H.
B18145 Washer
F62093 snap Ring
141-6 pin
132-48 cotter pin

Some of the parts are basic parts, the cross shaft and the brake levels will be hard to find.
probably dealer only.

I also found out that i think the machine has a diff lock on it. there is a part on the rear axle but i don't have a rod through the floor for the control

There are no pictures of this on cases website
It this in a parts book?
can anyone help me here?

thanks
dave

 

[Builder]

Brakes will be the first issue I address this weekend. Thanks for the info.
Can i use a gasket sealant in place of a gasket?

Hopefully the pump will continue to work properly. But it is good to know that they are not too bad.

On the backhoe drooping. The rear cylinder that holds the boom up, leas at the glands. so it drops over a little bit of time.

I have the travel lock on so it is ok for right now, until i want to start digging.

But replacing the fluids and the brakes are first on the list.
first the electrical system is next

can anyone get me a picture of what the gauge panel should look like. there is a button or something above the starter button that is missing. what is this and what does it do

also is the intake heater expensive? Mine is broken.
thanks

I'd guess the button above the starter button is a "stating aid" button. It sprays a shot of either into the intake to aid cold starts.

 

[tresslers]

Could it be for the intake heater?

It looks like the engine had one but it is broken.
I don't see a place where ether could be attached

 

[Builder]

Could it be for the intake heater?

It looks like the engine had one but it is broken.
I don't see a place where ether could be attached

Sure, it could be a preheater or glow plug heater.

 

[tresslers]

I think it is for an intake heater.

 

[snowboss]

Here's a bit of a story. Ask someone that owns a boat what the word means and they will tell you it stands for "Break Out Another Thousand". "Backhoe" is similar, but higher denomination.

You should be able to do the cylinder leaks if you have the cylinder wrenches. I am not familiar with the case cylinder packings/seals, you may need a STOUT air impact and some large sockets. Plan on them being HEAVY with all caps!

You may want to get a set of 3/4 sockets and wrenches up to 2". Ox/Acc torch set with a large rose bud to loosen up stubborn stuff helps.

It won't hurt to learn some new cuss words, just to be ready...

jb

This may sound silly, but it's very serious, A very good friend of mine thaT i've done a lot of work was "rose budding" a pin on the stick of his 30K Kobelco and burned a 60,000 dollar excavator to the ground - bad deal - so be careful with flames and leaking oil.....they're not "flamable" but with enough heat they will burn like crazy -----and HOT once they take off....good luck

 

[tresslers]

Note to self have fire extinguisher on hand.