Gooseneck Trailer Question

[WoodDawg]

I currently have a 16' equipment trailer that I plan on replacing in the near future with a 25' Gooseneck. The trailer I am looking at comes standard with (2) 7000' axles. The builder offered to add a third axle for $400. I really don't think I need the capacity, but would it make it easier to balance a load on it? Also, do the costs out weigh the benefits (extra tires to wear, less mileage, etc)? Any thoughts?

Mark

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sounds like overkill and extra tolls to me. Unless maybe you are going to be hauling bulldozers? I have a feeling that my truck would be overloaded long before my trailer needed an extra axle and I have an F350 Dually PSD.


I have also heard people also say that the tri-axles don't turn as smooth in tight manuevers due to the extra axle.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

The first thing you need to decide is if you need 21,000 lbs. of axles or if 14,000 will do. If you need more then you can consider another 7,000 lb. axle or going with two 10,000 lb. or even 12,000 lb. axles.

The more axles you have (or the further apart they are), the more tire scuffing you'll experience when turning. Backing a tri-axle equipment trailer around in anything even resembling tight quarters is a real challenge. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Chipperman]

WoodDawg
I own a 25 foot gooseneck with two 7000# axles. I love it. Be careful unless you have a class A comericial license you should not consider the three axles. I believe it is a Federal law that any combination of vehicles (truck & trailer) over 26000# you need the class A CDL. And yes the two axle trailer is easyer to turn around. Hope that helps
Chipperman

 

[cowboydoc]

I would get either the third axle or bigger axles. If I haul my 4020 tractor I would be overweight with a 14k trailer. You have to take off your trailer weight from that 14k as well. Most trailers are in the 2-4k weight range so you really are only going to have 10-12k of towing capacity. The CDL part only comes into play if you are hauling commercially. If you are only hauling for yourself you don't have to worry about it. You have to stop at the scales in some states but you don't need the cdl.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I think we are all missing the point. What is he hauling and what will he haul with?

Unless he has something bigger than a 1 ton pickup the trailer is a non-issue. If he's hauling more than 14k he is going to be overweight with ANY 1 ton pickup. Sure the manufactures sometime say you can tow more but you have to pull all the seats out an run with an almost empty full tank to stay under the gross weight of around 20-21K for truck and trailer even if it doesn't have the heavier diesel motor. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. Also with the gooseneck the GVW rating might be exceeded from the tongue weight not to mention rear truck axles and tires.

Some will argue that the vehicle ratings are not important and you can haul more. Well maybe, but than why worry about what the trailer is rated for??

Just seem like adding the 3rd axle is a waste unless we are moving up in vehicle type as well.

Not trying to be a pain just think we need to work this equation in reverse, vehicle, what your towing and then the right trailer setup.

 

[cowboydoc]

Towing is a non-issue. All the mfg. recommendation has to do with is what you can tow and be within your warranty. For my pickup I can haul up to 30k and be completely legal. It all depends on what license you buy. That's what you are limited by not what your pickup is. Haven't you ever seen the dodges, fords, etc. hauling car trailers, cattle trailers, etc. commercially? It's the same one ton dually. The difference is they have a license plate that says they can legally haul that much weight. The mfg. rec. is mostly just for warranty. Also just look at most any rv. They are almost all way more than 20k gcvw.

Haven't ever had a chevy but the dodges and Fords will easily pull 25k plus loads with no problems at all. We have trucks with 400k plus that their whole life has been hauling these kind of loads and no problems at all. Never had a broken axle, frame, springs or anything.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Lawman,

I just want to make two comments here. First, I probably should have commented as you did about the kind of truck required to tow a 20,000 lb. GVW trailer. With everything around from an S-10 to a Peterbilt to use I sometimes forget to consider such things. You make an excellent point.

Second, I'd like to respectfully disagree with the following;

<font color="blue"> we need to work this equation in reverse, vehicle, what your towing and then the right trailer setup</font>

As a truck dealer, I have people coming in all the time looking for a truck because they're going to need something to tow a trailer (horse, equipment, RV, whatever) they intend to buy. As much as it seems to be against my best interests, I tell them to go and buy their trailer first and THEN shop for a truck. I don't know what truck will fit their needs until their needs are established and that doesn't happen until the trailer is picked out.

As to the order for a general use trailer or equipment trailer, I think the order should start with the load/equipment you intend to haul. I think with most people that's what starts this whole process. They either have or want or intend to get something they're going to need to trailer. That's the first decision they either make or have made for them. In either case, that will determine what they need in a trailer both in terms of physical size and weight carrying capacity. Only when those two are in place are you ready to get the truck with which to pull it.

If you start with the load, each subsequent decision in terms of capacity is pretty much a matter of doing the math. If you start with the truck it's like that old football adage about passing--three things can happen and two of them are bad. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif You could get just what you need, of course. More likely, however is that you either end up with a truck that's not able to do the job or is dramatic overkill. With a truck not able to do what you really need you can end up limiting your choices on the other end based on the truck you bought. With the oversized, overpowered truck you end up spending way more on the truck and fuel for it than you need to. I just never want to be the guy who sold that truck in either case so I tell customers to get the other part done first. It makes my job easier and keeps them happier in the long run. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[cowboydoc]

Yea you are right Gary. Of course I'm talking about 350 1 ton duallys too. So he might have a 1/2 ton pickup.

Also you may need to haul 20 roundbales say. That isn't something you would need to do fast or even on the road necessarily.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

They don't turn good, get heavier axels and stay away from tri's if possible. I have heard of some people cracking hubs on their tri's when backing up and turning sharply with a extremly heavy load. If you need the extra capacity, which is a nice thing to have even if you don't need it now you always might need it in the future, get the bigger axels. Later.