Goose neck vs bumper pull

   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #1  

streamin

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
430
Location
Conroe, Texas
Tractor
Mahindra 5035 HST
I tow with an f250, 7.3 diesel and my trailer is a 20ft pipe top with 7k axles. When I went to my new tractor it weighed more. With loader, boxblade(#1100) or brush hog the weight I think is between #7500- #8000. Trailer is about #3000. Tongue weight was about #1100. Even though it is within limits the last time I drove 1500 miles it was very nerve racking to drive and not comfortable. I also had about #500 in the bed of the truck. So my questions are: if I go with a gooseneck, how much better will it be to drive? The wheels seem to be back farther on a gn which means more tongue weight, right? How much weight more or less can I put in the bed? I'm not sure if the cost of upgrading is worth it or not since I never pulled one before.
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #2  
I live 3 miles west of plantersville. Your more than welcome to come try out my gooseneck. It's the only thing I use to pull heavy with. With the weight over the axle it feels more stable. Hitching takes some practice so your not messing with it for 5 mins. A bp is nice for moving furniture, a GN is better for moving equipment around.

Brett
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #3  
I'm up in Willis. I will never buy another bumper pull for anything again. Love the gooseneck sit up too much to change. Smoother ride and more stable.
Come up to Willis and try my rig. 4-6-13 Trailer, Disc, and Big RED Beast.jpg3-1-13 Truck, Trailer, Tractor & Grapple.jpg
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #4  
Even though there is more weight on the hitch, its effets on the truck are less cause its directly over the axles. A bumper pull that hitches several feet behind the axle gives the trailer lots of leverage.

Think of putting a pallet of whatever right at the back of the truck (half on the tailgate) vs shoving it all the way to the front of the bed. Same weight, big difference in how the suspension handles it.

One thing to keep in mind too, is GN's turn short and cut corners. You need WIDE driveway approaches to get into and out of. If you have a narrow drive, you may either have to change that, or stick with BP
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #5  
Once you go Gooseneck you will wonder why you waited so long. The tongue weight of a bumper pull maxes out at 10%. A gooseneck wants 15% if not 20%. The biggest thing is you move from being 3-4 feet behind the rear axle and causing the rear axle to act as the fulcrum of a lever. To being 4-6 inches in front of the rear axle. Therefore taking away the lever effect.
The move forward also causes you to gain control while on the road. It can happen but goosenecks aren't know for being a wagging tail to the truck. Especially at high interstate speeds.
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #6  
Gooseneck hands down,you will chunk rocks at that bumper pull. You still have room in bed but limited now cause the hitch but can stack in front side and back of it.
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #7  
I tow with an f250, 7.3 diesel ------------------------------------- So my questions are: if I go with a gooseneck, how much better will it be to drive? The wheels seem to be back farther on a gn which means more tongue weight, right? How much weight more or less can I put in the bed? I'm not sure if the cost of upgrading is worth it or not since I never pulled one before.

It will be much better to drive, no more tail wagging the dog effect. No more tongue weight bouncing the front end up and down.

You will be able to safely carry more weight in the bed, up to the Gross Axle Weight Rating, since the gooseneck ball is ahead of the rear axle, some of the trailer weight is carried by the front axle.

The trick to hooking up a gooseneck is to put a rod or a stick on a magnet. Make it tall enough to see from the front seat. Set the magnet right in front of the ball. Put the tailgate down, look at the inside rear view mirror, center the rod on the gooseneck pipe as you back up. Stop when the rod moves, get out and lower the hitch onto the ball! You have to use the mirror to be centered, if you look over your shoulder, it won't be over the ball.

Here is a thread that will answer your next question, ramps? http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/273476-stand-up-slide-ramps.html

This is my 2006 Delta 14K 18' steel deck with the 4' pop up dovetail. It weighs 5K, 1k on the ball.

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   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #8  
I had a GN and while it pulled a little better the loss of bed space and limited tow vehicle choices sent me back to BP.

Think this one out carefully.

Chris
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #9  
I agree with Chris' point about thinking it thru.

We don't know you. We don't know your future intentions.

With that said, I'm with all the rest (except Chris). I use the 16' BP to haul my little JD or light weight items. I always use the GN to haul bigger stuff.

You should take advantage of the two offers here to let you test their rigs. Sounds like they both would be willing to load up their tractors and let you take em for a short lap.

Biggest thing to get used to is the short cutting corners.

Not long after I got my GN (dual wheeled tandem axle) I was driving down the Interstate at 75 mph with two Jeep buggies onboard. As I passed a truck I blew a trailer tire. No adverse reactions to my vehicle at all. Sure made traffic scatter as pieces of tire flew off until I could get stopped. With a single tired axle setup things would not have been as uneventful.

Good luck with your choice.
 
   / Goose neck vs bumper pull #10  
Having Towed with both I like the GN better. They drive differently so you will need some time to get familiar with the way it handles. Also they do weight alittle more then bumper pulls so make sure your not over what your truck can haul. I also went from a GN lowboy with fender to a deck over. I would stick to a deck over. GN cost more overall vs Bumper pull. Also my registration cost me $438.00 a year For a Combined gross rating 25,000.
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